Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
How do you do it?
Adjust Parking Brake - Auto release - Light
- Thread starter Lownslowlsc
- Start date
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Looks very similar to how it was on my old Marquis. Thanks for the help Bangster.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
It was pretty crusty but did move a couple notches. The line is firm when it's applied and the pedal is tighter but the line is a bit saggy and I can hear it clank on the exhuast when it's released. Is it supposed to be supported somehow in the center? I wouldn't be surprised if whatever it was rusted away.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Geez, now I notice that the pedal doesn't auto release when put in gear and the light doesn't illuminate on the dash. I have a feeling it's been like this for a little while, I do remember it working not to long ago though...
Edit: Title as well for easier searching
It ended up being the switch that senses the pedal position. The upper portion of the pin was "dirty" making it unable to ground out when the pedal was pressed (Once it grounds it triggers the light). If anyone else is having this problem - Remove the lower black panel, locate the pin/sensor above the pedal (engage parking brake) and give the spade terminal a wiggle while the ignition is on. If the light starts flickering you have a loose/dirty connection. If the spade connector is secure go ahead and clean the upper portion of the pin/retaining washer where it comes into contact with it.
Parking brake light and auto release are now working as they should.
Edit: Title as well for easier searching
It ended up being the switch that senses the pedal position. The upper portion of the pin was "dirty" making it unable to ground out when the pedal was pressed (Once it grounds it triggers the light). If anyone else is having this problem - Remove the lower black panel, locate the pin/sensor above the pedal (engage parking brake) and give the spade terminal a wiggle while the ignition is on. If the light starts flickering you have a loose/dirty connection. If the spade connector is secure go ahead and clean the upper portion of the pin/retaining washer where it comes into contact with it.
Parking brake light and auto release are now working as they should.
Marcus
Dedicated LVC Member
For fastening the cable to the car, there are three clips that hold the main cable to the frame. As far as I know they're still available. Part # is in picture and you need to order 3. About $6 each. And yes they do rust away, leaving the cable to flop around under the car. If the clip is gone, you should see a hole where they were. I don't have pics, but here are the approximate locations. My memory is a little vague so this is the best I can recall but you should be able to follow the cable to find the holes:
1. In the floor pan (or maybe in the little rail) a couple of feet back from the little bracket where the main cable hooks up to the front (pedal) cable.
2. On the side of the inner fender forward of the wheel well where the cable starts to snake up towards the top of the subframe. Just follow the cable up and you should find the hole about a foot or so up.
3. In the floor pan above the subframe rear of the axles. There's a small hole with larger holes on either side. You want the small hole. This one's a bitch because it's hard to reach and is filled with expanding foam on the opposite (inside) of the car. Mine had the rusty remains of the old clip inside and it took a while to dig it out with a screwdriver so the new clip would go in.
Also, the adjuster assembly came from the factory zip-tied to the sway bar to keep it from rattling around. Pretty cheesy but I guess it works.
Oh yeah, here's a parts diagram. The first one is where the "F" is, the second right behind it and the third is "G", although it's further back than the G is pointing.
1. In the floor pan (or maybe in the little rail) a couple of feet back from the little bracket where the main cable hooks up to the front (pedal) cable.
2. On the side of the inner fender forward of the wheel well where the cable starts to snake up towards the top of the subframe. Just follow the cable up and you should find the hole about a foot or so up.
3. In the floor pan above the subframe rear of the axles. There's a small hole with larger holes on either side. You want the small hole. This one's a bitch because it's hard to reach and is filled with expanding foam on the opposite (inside) of the car. Mine had the rusty remains of the old clip inside and it took a while to dig it out with a screwdriver so the new clip would go in.
Also, the adjuster assembly came from the factory zip-tied to the sway bar to keep it from rattling around. Pretty cheesy but I guess it works.
Oh yeah, here's a parts diagram. The first one is where the "F" is, the second right behind it and the third is "G", although it's further back than the G is pointing.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Thank you for the detailed post Mark, much appreciated.
My clips are rusty but intact. I was unaware that they used a ziptie from the factory to hold it up there. Hey, if it work it works. I guess when replacing my rusty, broken in half swaybar 6 years ago with a sc one I must've just clipped it off and forgot to replace it. Honestly it didn't hit the exhaust until after I adjusted it or I probably would've fixed it earlier.
My clips are rusty but intact. I was unaware that they used a ziptie from the factory to hold it up there.
Hey, if it work it works. I guess when replacing my rusty, broken in half swaybar 6 years ago with a sc one I must've just clipped it off and forgot to replace it. Honestly it didn't hit the exhaust until after I adjusted it or I probably would've fixed it earlier.