ABS light help

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myfirstls

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Hello guys. I just finish my front suspension overhaul and install pretty much everything new since my upper ball-joint, tie-rod and sway-bar link with usual rubber boot problem. While I'm at it, I replaced front bearing carrier/hub with Raybestos one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M5KCV8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To make the long story short, I now have ABS light on, but no code is store when I connect the code reader. I haven't driven the car due to alignment not done yet.

Could the brand new hub have bad sensor? Anything I should look for? It got dark, so I haven't play with the connector yet. I'll try unplug it and plug it back tomorrow.
 
No code from the reader? What kind of reader? Your typical OBDII CEL reader won't do ABS or SRS.
 
LSFrank said:
No code from the reader? What kind of reader? Your typical OBDII CEL reader won't do ABS or SRS.
Click to expand...

Wow. Didn't know that one. Checked my manual and looks like the one I have won't read the ABS code. Damn. Is there any way I can check this or I need new reader?
 
Check wheel speed sensor, make sure it reads directly above the ring teeth, must be able to read it's rotation.

Check the electrical continuity of the wiring from the plug for the sensor back to the ABS ECM.
Double check connectors, get the car up to 12mph and apply the brakes.

Could be a crap ABS sensor on your new hub, not the first time I have heard of a dud hub/ABS sensor.



Also, you did crank on the 4 wheel hub bolts @ 66 lb-ft, right?


Anyhow, GLWR
 
when we did that same thing last wknd, we cleared the codes, but it should reset
once you drive it around. otherwise, like rig said, you may have a bad hub sensor,
which would sucketh.
 
honestly, the first step would be getting the codes read... that will point you in the correct direction of the problem.

do you know anyone with a better scanner? you usually don't need a crazy good scanner to be able to read most SRS or ABS codes (then again, sometimes you might), I think the one I use at my shop cost around $250...
 
Hoping we didn't put a left handed hub on the right side or vise-versa, if that's even possible on the LS, I forget. Not 100% sure.
either or, sensor has to be able to read wheel rotation. While disconnected and you even turned the steering wheel, your in trouble!
Granted, it will reset, providing you take it around the block a bit.
 
BigRigLS said:
either or, sensor has to be able to read wheel rotation. While disconnected and you even turned the steering wheel, your in trouble!
Granted, it will reset, providing you take it around the block a bit.
Click to expand...

Well, I was doing whole suspension rebuild, so I DID turn the wheel. Not just once but several times. Hopefully, it will reset. Otherwise, guess I'm getting better reader (small price to pay if I can get the code, planning to keep the LS for a while and besides, I'll probably get another OBS II car anyway if this LS crapped out on me).
 
BigRigLS said:
Hoping we didn't put a left handed hub on the right side or vise-versa, if that's even possible on the LS, I forget. Not 100% sure....
Click to expand...

It's the same part [front hub], left or right.
 
Check the plug first to make sure its plugged in properly and seated fully. Normally if you get an ABS light after part replacement, it's an "open" in the circuit. Check to make sure you routed the new sensor wire the same way as the old one. If not... and you turned the steering wheel,,, you may have stretched something beyond repair. I would try plugging the old hub back into the ABS harness. If the light goes out, it's either a bad sensor in the new hub,,, or somehow you pinched, cut or pulled the wire while installing the new hub. The sensors are removable,,, so if the old one works just install it in the new hub.
 
OK. Finally got around to the problem. Drove the car around carefully in town, drove it for few blocks and the light went off. I'll take the car for alignment tomorrow (just two blocks from where I live), so after that, I'll test drive it again just to make sure.

Thanks for all your help guys.
 
myfirstls said:
... Drove the car around carefully in town, drove it for few blocks and the light went off ...
Click to expand...


BigRigLS said:
... it will reset, providing you take it around the block a bit.
Click to expand...



Stuff like sensors and such, they just need a chance to complete a drive cycle or two to relearn and adjust, people always panic thinking the worse. Just clear codes, keep driving, see if things pop back up. If CEL's don't reappear immediately, no problem, no sense throwing money at a simple glitch in the LS matrix.

Please note: by "drive cycle" I mean just get in and drive the thing normally as advised in the service/owners manuals, NOT the complicated dreamed up bible thumping correct drive cycle relearn procedure that gets brought up here from time to time, like an annoying form of lip herpes.


Anyhow, good deal, glad you got 'er done! +1
Keep an eye on those hubs, check wheel temperature and don't forget to re-torque the wheel nuts a week or so after the alignment.
 
BigRigLS said:
Please note: by "drive cycle" I mean just get in and drive the thing normally as advised in the service/owners manuals, NOT the complicated dreamed up bible thumping correct drive cycle relearn procedure that gets brought up here from time to time, like an annoying form of lip herpes.
Click to expand...

well if you don't perform the proper drive cycle, then the computer wont finish saving and won't go to sleep until the battery is drained...
 
BigRigLS said:
Stuff like sensors and such, they just need a chance to complete a drive cycle or two to relearn and adjust, people always panic thinking the worse.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm kinda old school guy, so not used to the computer-controlled car. My other car is 86' MCSS, and number of G-body from GM, so kinda got me worried with that ABS light on.

Still learning about the car. Had 94' T-Bird once, but wasn't this complex! But for some reason, everything looks similar...............

In any case, great car, so I planning to keep her. Next on menu. That dreaded solenoid pack change. Wish me luck. Read number of post and hope I can do it without any drama.
 
1LoudLS said:
well if you don't perform the proper drive cycle, then the computer wont finish saving and won't go to sleep until the battery is drained...
Click to expand...

oh don't you start also :p
 
:slap:
smiley-finger007.gif
 
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