`95 rear brakes

[Future]

ok this is really starting to get on my nerves now. I've been trying to get the lower bracket bolt placed back as so I can replace the tire and move onto the other side, but the damn parking brake cable is inhibiting anything I try.

Now, do I need to remove the E-brake cable in order to do these brakes, or is there another way I'm just not seeing?

Also If i have to remove the E-brake, what should I be expecting? more speacial tools?

I've NEVER spent more than 1hr doing a full brake job, this is lasting well over a week on 1 bolt all because I don't want to screw anything up.

HEEEEEELLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPP

 

[john1978]

how to

you dont need to remove the cable it does help if you do.after removing the one caliper bolt you shold be able to slide the caliper off one of the mounts should be a pin.to get the cable off i always used a big screwdriver to push the rod back and a pair of dikes to remove the cable.you also need a special tool to turn the calper back in.sorry a bunch to swallow let me know.

 

[Future]

It took me a week to actually find the caliper spreader kit. There was no way I was going to attack it with a basic spreader and channel locks. SO I got the tool and the piston is pushed back in properly (all the way)

Caliper Spreader Kit - $42 at Harbor Freight good luck obtaining one though

The cable is the actual problem I'm having. If there was a mere 1/4 inch extra room, there would be no problems whatsoever. Now if I pop the c-clip off the cable, will it give me the extra slack, as well as go back on without trouble?

Thank you for the help too

 

[Future]

I'm yanking out what little hair I have left now. I've never before had this much trouble. If I get this done, I'm giving yall a tech article because NOBODY should have to deal with this.

I've concluded I must mess with the tension spring in order to get the bottom bolt back in place. Looks like I'll be using some bigger vice-grips to try keeping tension on the spring just for 1/4 inch.