02LSE96LSC91SE84TC
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Haven't been on here lately. How many 8.8 swapped people we got here now???
4.10
- Thread starter 02LSE96LSC91SE84TC
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fastmark1993
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i think there is still only like 3-4, couple people have been talking about it.
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC
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Nice PMJJ. 4.56s.....I'd love to drive it and see how it is compared. I'm guessing 4th gear around 70.
Which way did you go on the driveshaft?
Which way did you go on the driveshaft?
Waiting on my drivetrain warranty to run out 
Got a nice collection of parts going though. Need to find that steal of a deal on a Detroit TrueTrac still. Probably just end up coughing up the $500. But once I acquire that, just need a rebuild kit and I'll have the pumpkin together. Then it's just a matter of putting the brackets on, and having the carbon fiber shaft made. Fortunately there's a place just 15 miles away that can do the whole fitment and fab in-house. I just have to get the rear together.
Got a nice collection of parts going though. Need to find that steal of a deal on a Detroit TrueTrac still. Probably just end up coughing up the $500. But once I acquire that, just need a rebuild kit and I'll have the pumpkin together. Then it's just a matter of putting the brackets on, and having the carbon fiber shaft made. Fortunately there's a place just 15 miles away that can do the whole fitment and fab in-house. I just have to get the rear together.
Wicked Ace
Well-Known LVC Member
Do you have a number for a diff that will fit an LS rear? Or are you figuring on putting in something else? Please elaborate.
I just put a True track in my '11 Frontier and I'm impressed with the outcome.
I had it all assembled Oct 2010, didn't get a chance to run it, put it up for the winter, was all excited to drive last spring, bunch of crap went down so car went back into storage all last year, hopefully this spring. Definetly want to see what the gears turn for rpm's.
here's the D-shaft, basically a mustang driveshaft...
Sicne this thread is about an 8.8" swap in an LS, you have every option imaginable under the sun. Any 8.8" 28-spline center will work. I think in one of the locker threads someone attempted to put an aftermarket 8.8" diff into the Gen1 8.0" housing but had to clearance the housing (or diff) to make it work.
For the 8.8" swap I have planned, I was going to get the 912A562 part number. It's a 28-spline Detroit TrueTrac. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTL-912A562/
For an application, just use a 2002 Ford Mustang Cobra when looking up parts. It's the same IRS set-up that the Mk8 uses and is what the 8.8" conversions for the LS is based on.
It's a torque-biasing diff. I believe the design is pre-loaded, which means there is a spring and a friction plate in there so that if one tire is on pavement and the other on ice you can still move forward. The earlier ones without that design required both wheels to somewhat hook to work. They don't give you 100% lock-up, but you can get around 80% I think.
But yes, no primary clutches to burn out or replace or preload. Uses regular gear lube (they actually tell you NOT use use friction modifier). Doesn't knock/klunk like a locker does. Gives you a torque biasing output so your one-wheel-peal special end up putting more power to the wheel that is gripping. They also seem to last.
This seems to be a better explanation: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml
If you are drag racing I would just go for a locker instead. If you need to turn under power then I would go with his. If you are just a every great once in a while spirited driver type then I would stick with the Ford clutch-based LSD. Since I plan to go to SCCA AutoX events, I want the TrueTrac. Bad part is it's around $450-500 new.
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC
Dedicated LVC Member
Dig the 1 pc driveshaft. Sure looked like a tight fit when I mapped it put. Looks like the center bearing framing/structure had to be removed, didn't consider doing that. With a hard shift program I can feel the 2 piece and/or Guibo bounce, not bad but I can tell and that would surely fix it. Have to take it highway speeds to see if it "smooth" not that it won't be.
I recently put a real Detroit Locker in my CobraII. I would not run that in anything but a toy. The clicking is fine, having to adjust/steer when it engages and disengages at higher speeds when you have a bend in the road takes some getting used to. And sometimes the bang and popping is so loud it sounds like some hit my quarter panel with a 3lb sledge. Other than that it awesome. The True Trac would have to be alot smoother for me to consider it in my LS.
My Ford Trac Loc has been fine with 24k on the swap
I recently put a real Detroit Locker in my CobraII. I would not run that in anything but a toy. The clicking is fine, having to adjust/steer when it engages and disengages at higher speeds when you have a bend in the road takes some getting used to. And sometimes the bang and popping is so loud it sounds like some hit my quarter panel with a 3lb sledge. Other than that it awesome. The True Trac would have to be alot smoother for me to consider it in my LS.
My Ford Trac Loc has been fine with 24k on the swap
A Detroit TrueTrac and a Detroit Locker are two very different animals. The locker is really designed for off-road and drag racing toys. Not really something enjoyable for a daily driver in my opinion. It is just too harsh for me.
A TrueTrac is a torque biasing diff. It will feel about like your Ford clutch-based diff, except that it won't burn up clutches and it's design will put power to the wheel with the most grip (slowest turning). However it will not completely lock-up and tie the axles together like your Locker does. That's why I wouldn't recommend it for drag racing. They work good in off-roading depending on how much power and the type of vehicle you are putting it in.
If you've driven one of the off-road F150's with the factory torsen diff then it's the same general design theory. I think they were the FX2 and new Raptor F150s that had them. They are silent running and work transparently.
I'd really love to do this but mine's still a daily driver for now so I got just the 8.8 limited slip to fit in the 8.0 carrier. Maybe down the road I'll swap it out for the 8.8 and go 4.10's (and just reuse the new tloc).
I was curious who has gone to the track with the steep rear ratio... what gear and RMP do you hit at the end? Anyone with power adders?
I was curious who has gone to the track with the steep rear ratio... what gear and RMP do you hit at the end? Anyone with power adders?
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC
Dedicated LVC Member
I've been to the track several times with the 4.10s. Alot harder to get "good" passes as traction is more of a issue now and track prep is more important.
With stock 3.31s I could finish in 3rd pushing redline 6500 at 96-98mph.
With 4.10s its done with 3rd at about the 1/8th mark and 4th is at only 5300-5400 at the line. I've mentioned 4.56s may be better for a 1/4 mile focused LS to use as it will finish in the rpm band better in 4th.
With 4.56s 100mph should be about 5900-6000rpm.
With stock 3.31s I could finish in 3rd pushing redline 6500 at 96-98mph.
With 4.10s its done with 3rd at about the 1/8th mark and 4th is at only 5300-5400 at the line. I've mentioned 4.56s may be better for a 1/4 mile focused LS to use as it will finish in the rpm band better in 4th.
With 4.56s 100mph should be about 5900-6000rpm.
I know the gears in gen II sport are 3.56 but does anyone know what the stall is??
If i were to go with gears i think a shift kit would be essential as well. But i dont take my ride to the track so its pointless.
If i were to go with gears i think a shift kit would be essential as well. But i dont take my ride to the track so its pointless.
2500 I think and from what I read on here, you dont need a shift kit, a tuner can adjust the tranny and get better results by tuning it.
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC
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Yeah you can just firm the shift with a tune, you'd be surprized how firm.
Not sure on the stall I remember some stall builder saying 2400.
I thought a stall would be a nice compliment to the gear but I found with the tall gearing the car jumps to the good rpms pretty much anyway, not to say that it wouldn't improve the launch, just I felt less desire for a hirer stall after the gear.
Not sure on the stall I remember some stall builder saying 2400.
I thought a stall would be a nice compliment to the gear but I found with the tall gearing the car jumps to the good rpms pretty much anyway, not to say that it wouldn't improve the launch, just I felt less desire for a hirer stall after the gear.
Cool, that's very useful info... thanks!