4:10 gears

KainDTE

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8.8" Mark VIII Rear Ring and Pinion Sets
3.55:1 Ratio - A mild upgrade over the factory 3.08:1 or 3.27:1 rear gear.

3.73:1 Ratio - An excellent upgrade and possibly the most popular for Mark owners.

4.10:1 Ratio - For those owners looking for an edge in the stop light wars!
See the "SPECIALS" section for even lower pricing!

Reg. $190 all ratios

this is from supercoupeperformance.com I was wondering if this is the best deall ill find for the 4:10's and are there any other better mods I can get for under 200$?
 
KainDTE said:
8.8" Mark VIII Rear Ring and Pinion Sets
3.55:1 Ratio - A mild upgrade over the factory 3.08:1 or 3.27:1 rear gear.

3.73:1 Ratio - An excellent upgrade and possibly the most popular for Mark owners.

4.10:1 Ratio - For those owners looking for an edge in the stop light wars!
See the "SPECIALS" section for even lower pricing!

Reg. $190 all ratios

this is from supercoupeperformance.com I was wondering if this is the best deall ill find for the 4:10's and are there any other better mods I can get for under 200$?

sorry to tell ya, but its more like a $1000 mod. You MUST have the metal matrix driveshaft ($500) or your gonna vibrate so bad youll think your in an airplane, also you will want to get a trak-lok ($215-500) The gears ($165-250) and fluids and rebuild kit. Its not nessissarly the cheepest upgrade.

If you want to find good mods for cheep, talk to Geno (ONEBADMK8)
 
Thats not entirely true Andy.


Although it IS alittle more involved than just slapping gears in the pumpkin, you can find easier ways to do it. Although it's nice, you don't NEED the Trak-Lok. I find that it's kinda dumb not to put one in but oh well. You can find already built "slightly used" 3rd members for a few hundred FYI.

If you lucky enough to find one, you could use a one piece driveshaft from an early 93. Although this is'nt the reccomended way to do it, it will help on vibration ALOT. But the MMX driveshaft is the way to go for total reliability.


Mike
 
I already got a used center section for $60 and a friend of mine has a set of 3.73 gears ready for me to go with it. I was going to look for a Trak-Lok next but am also thinking of going 4.10 or even 4.30 :confused: I only live about 8 miles from work and it is all back roads with max of 45mph.

I am a bit nervous on the drive shaft that I have been hearing about at this point now? Are these a split drive shaft in the Mark 8's? What is the normal fix, a fabbed single piece shaft? I can have one made no problem basically I just want to have all parts in hand so I can plan a day to do it all.
 
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/hd_aluminum.html


This is the best you can buy. I have one on my 94', 95' and soon to be on the 98'. The stock unit is a "tube in tube" design. With the steeper gear ratios, the DS has to spin faster for a given speed, causing it to whip off of the centerline. This causes a hell of a vibraton in the cabin, and can potentailly fracture the tailshaft housing on the tranny, along with wrecking the pinion bearing in the 3rd member.
 
94m5 said:
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/hd_aluminum.html


This is the best you can buy. I have one on my 94', 95' and soon to be on the 98'. The stock unit is a "tube in tube" design. With the steeper gear ratios, the DS has to spin faster for a given speed, causing it to whip off of the centerline. This causes a hell of a vibraton in the cabin, and can potentailly fracture the tailshaft housing on the tranny, along with wrecking the pinion bearing in the 3rd member.
Good to know on the stock driveshaft but there is no way I would pay that kind of money for one for this car. I was upset enough shelling out $1000 for rear axles on my WRX. I can have my local shop fab a shaft for me for a much better price :cool:
 
Allright, have fun with that. Little word of advice tho......


There is a reason everyone is going with a MMX driveshaft. Part of the stock units weakness is because of the sheer overall length. 58" Center to center. The MMX material is ALOT stiffer than the common alloy used, and even stiffer than a steel shaft.

Dennys has a reason to charge what they do. Look at the welds, the balance job, and the quality parts used in construction.


BTW...I'm moving this to the performace forum, which is where it should have been put in the first place.

Mike
 
Now, i keep gettin told that even with the 93 driveshaft you have to get realy realy lucky to have it ballenced right. I found one at the local yard for $100, but i hesitated on buying it because of what i keep hearing. Mike, in your oppinion would you trust the 93 with 4.10's or would you still go with the mmx?
 
*I* Would go with the MMX, but then again...I don't mind spending the extra money for a quality part.


FYI, dennys also balances driveshafts. you coud buy that 93 unit, send it to them, and have it balanced to thier specs. Should cost you about 100 bucks after shipping.



Mike
 
Like I said I throw money were it needs to be thrown but I would not pay that for a drive shaft unless it was Carbon Fiber or something to that extent. I used one shop in Manville once and he didn't balance the shaft on my RT 440 Challenger with 4.56 gears and I have never given or recommended him for anything again.

I have a shop that will make the entire deal in front of you if you wish with balancing and last time it was no were near that price. Unless inflation has caused him to up it that bad :confused:
 
Like I said I will go to my shop were I know what is being done. The MMX is not worth the kind of money they are asking. I have pit crewed for national record holding NHRA cars and we use mild steel in those driveshafts.

That and I'm a machinist so I can do everything but balance one if I decide to make it. I just can't see spending that kind of money for a shaft when there is no need.
 
2002WRXSTi said:
Like I said I will go to my shop were I know what is being done. The MMX is not worth the kind of money they are asking. I have pit crewed for national record holding NHRA cars and we use mild steel in those driveshafts.

That and I'm a machinist so I can do everything but balance one if I decide to make it. I just can't see spending that kind of money for a shaft when there is no need.
So while you're at it, make a couple more and save some members here some money if they turn out to be the real deal.
 
MrWilson said:
Ill buy one for $300
Your in NJ and the place I have do my shafts is in Bound Brook. So you could always go there and ask. Otherwise I use a place on Rt130 N in North Brunswick.
 
2002WRXSTi said:
Your in NJ and the place I have do my shafts is in Bound Brook. So you could always go there and ask. Otherwise I use a place on Rt130 N in North Brunswick.


gimme more specifics if you wouldnt mind.
 
MrWilson said:
gimme more specifics if you wouldnt mind.
Seeing that I am going to have to do this when I switch my gears I will keep you informed what my total outlay is on the driveshaft.
 

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