1 year oil change

[Lownslowlsc]

I changed my oil in mid-late May and have only driven it maybe 2,500 miles to date using a 820s and Penn high mileage. Would it be so bad to wait till early spring to switch it out? By that time it would have about 6k on it.

I just feel like I should get more out of my oil changes since I don't rack up the miles and take it very easy on the car. I'm aware that an extra $25 for an oil change is cheap insurance, just looking for opinions.


160k
Leaks about 1/8qt per normal 3-3.5k oci
25mi roundtrip daily commutes on avg
Runs great

 

[LSCmuscle]

It's said that today's oils don't break down and start to degrade as quick/easily as older oils tended to when left in the crankcase.

I personally use Mobil 1 full synthetic/extended performance, which is said to be guaranteed for every 15k or yearly under normal driving conditions. That being said, I still change mine out just before putting the car up for winter and then every spring even though the car doesn't see over 1-2k a year... my OCD probably plays a part in that but it's fairly inexpensive and I have too much invested in the motor to not try and prevent any premature failures. I also tend to drive the car a little harder than normal conditions from time to time . I've read that some recomnend storing a car with fresh oil because it collects moisture throughout the year, while others say to just change it out in the spring... I do both (I'm sure its over-kill) but better safe than sorry.

Not sure about Pennzoil, but I'd go by what the label says (every 3, 5, 7.5k??)... then again, if you're worried a quick oil change is a cheap remedy for piece of mind as you already mentioned.

 

[ONLYTONY]

Two reasons to change oil, time, and miles. I use the 3-5K miles, or twice a year. Like LSC said, moisture can get into the oil. I read that syn-high milage is refined more to make the molecules smaller so the get into all the little nooks and crannies. I add 2 ozs sea foam to help get rid of moisture. I had a T-brd for 21 years, oil X'd 5k, and when I did a valve job at 130K, all stainless,valves, (no more leaded gas), I took out all the sludge under the manifold that totaled the size of a golf ball. It was a 460cu. Twice on my 95 MK VIII I forgot to reset oil change, and changed oil at 1K miles. Did'nt hurt a thing. Yea I write everything down now. I was a vavoline guy but because of LVC guys I switched to Mobile 1 full syn-high milage. 3 of my 6 cars qualify for HM, but their all going to get it, can't hurt. $25 oil change? It cost me more for just the oil, then $5-6 for a syn filter, but I love hot oil running down my arm.

 

[LSCmuscle]

Two reasons to change oil, time, and miles. I use the 3-5K miles, or twice a year. Like LSC said, moisture can get into the oil. I read that syn-high milage is refined more to make the molecules smaller so the get into all the little nooks and crannies. I add 2 ozs sea foam to help get rid of moisture. I had a T-brd for 21 years, oil X'd 5k, and when I did a valve job at 130K, all stainless,valves, (no more leaded gas), I took out all the sludge under the manifold that totaled the size of a golf ball. It was a 460cu. Twice on my 95 MK VIII I forgot to reset oil change, and changed oil at 1K miles. Did'nt hurt a thing. Yea I write everything down now. I was a vavoline guy but because of LVC guys I switched to Mobile 1 full syn-high milage. 3 of my 6 cars qualify for HM, but their all going to get it, can't hurt. $25 oil change? It cost me more for just the oil, then $5-6 for a syn filter, but I love hot oil running down my arm.

I thought you weren't suppose to keep/drive with seafoam in your crankcase... rather that you should change the oil after say a 5-10 mile drive after adding seafoam?

What do you mean by a syn filter? What would qualify as one? I always use the Motorcraft 820s... I was under the impression that these were top notch filters, and they only cost about $4.

 

[Bangster]

Sea foam can be added to oil and left in as an additive and not just a "cleaner" prior to changing the oil.

Most sub 10 dollar oil filters don't have synthetic media, the FL-820s has paper media.

 

[ONLYTONY]

Made me go and do some reading. Sea Foam jug states; SF can remain in the crankcase for preventative maintence until oil becomes dirty and then it must be changed. I only put 1-2 ounces in. Purolator Synthetic oil filter states; 100% synthetic media for synthetic oil. 10K protection. all Fram states is up to 15K protsction. All this bookwork's is giving me a headache, must be 5 O'clock somewhere. The Purolator sold for $10.99 with coupon $9.81.

 

[chris2523]

FL820S and motorcraft 5w20 every time the message center beeps at me to do so.

a 196k 96, and a 204k 93.

 

[mark0101]

Two reasons to change oil, time, and miles. I use the 3-5K miles, or twice a year. Like LSC said, moisture can get into the oil. I read that syn-high milage is refined more to make the molecules smaller so the get into all the little nooks and crannies. I add 2 ozs sea foam to help get rid of moisture. I had a T-brd for 21 years, oil X'd 5k, and when I did a valve job at 130K, all stainless,valves, (no more leaded gas), I took out all the sludge under the manifold that totaled the size of a golf ball. It was a 460cu. Twice on my 95 MK VIII I forgot to reset oil change, and changed oil at 1K miles. Did'nt hurt a thing. Yea I write everything down now. I was a vavoline guy but because of LVC guys I switched to Mobile 1 full syn-high milage. 3 of my 6 cars qualify for HM, but their all going to get it, can't hurt. $25 oil change? It cost me more for just the oil, then $5-6 for a syn filter, but I love hot oil running down my arm.

From what I have read, you shouldn't use High mileage oil if your car isn't burning any oil. What the HM oil has are additives that swell the rubber seals from what I was told. Now If your seals are good and you swell them past what they are suppose to be is obviously not good.

Oil is oil to me except it has to be synthetic because it flows better. Most of your engine wear is when you start the car up and there is no oil in the engine, synthetic the way I think will get into the engine faster than conventional oil. I used to use Mobile 1 but have switched over to walmart supertech synthetic. As long as it has the "API" label on the oil bottle, it's all good in my books no matter which company it's made from.

I do mine every 5k or one year.

 

[LSCmuscle]

FL820S and motorcraft 5w20 every time the message center beeps at me to do so.

a 196k 96, and a 204k 93.

Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but any particular reason you run 5w20 over 5w30? I remember hearing Ford called for the switch, but don't remember the reasoning? Also, I thought the higher/thicker viscosity would be better for higher mileage engines?

If my memory serves me correctly, driller as well as Roadboss and mlschultz still run the 5w30 in their engines. I'm not saying it's right/better, but I know they have some significant mods done to their motors and just figured if it's good enough for their high powered applications then it should definitely be fine for vehicles with less mods.

My engine is modded, but not to their extent. I still run the 5w30 because thats what the manual orginally calls for... but in my location it's harder to come by compared to the 5w20 for some reason. Again, I'm not trying to say which way is better... I was just curious as to why you chose the 5w20?

 

[chris2523]

cold startup mostly. thinner oil cut down on the timing chain rattle on the 93.

 

[Roadboss]

The reason to use the slightly thinner oil is to ease stresses on the bearings at start up in cold weather. Remember, not everyone lives in a nice warm climate. Engine bearing clearances have over the years become tighter and this gives better engine life overall, but also dictated a more viscose oil. Race engines use ,typically, 50 weight oil, because the cranks and rods have more clearance (= more free horse power). Thus the need for a lower (higher number) viscosity oil.

I use Mobil 1 5W30 in my SC car and 5W20 in my other cars. I went to 5W30 in the one car as that is what my engine builder recommended. I had no problems rationalizing it's use as he was guaranteeing the engine, and the car is only started and run in warm weather. I just pull the battery terminals as soon as the weather goes to pot.

My position on oil changes is that it really should be changed before the car is stored. Not so much for water absorption, but more because of fuel and contaminants absorbed into the oil that could allow for some oxidation on cylinder walls and bearing surfaces, and also settling into various parts of the engine.

 

[soduka]

Put fresh oil in it before you store it. If the vehicle is stored longer than 2 years, dump that oil and change it again when you bring it back to life. Done.