05 LS fan motor

No. Factory fan comes as an assembly... and they are no longer available. Aftermarket fan is only option. Don't buy cheap... and check dimensions so the replacement fits properly.

Other option is junkyard factory fan. Most places will warranty a used fan for 30 days... possibly more.
 
Some members on here have tried Flex-a-Lite fans with good results... but may require some "creative wiring". Member Joegr has some write ups on here about wiring up aftermarket fans.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
O'reilly fan too small, too low rpm... or doesn't fully cover radiator. Probably why running too hot with A/C on.
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Hot is relative, I'd say mine factory stock runs hot even without the AC running if you monitor the temp though forscan cause it gets up to 220 even in Vegas winters but the temp gauge never moves so some consider it normal.
 
#Jeff504lsv8 said:
220 is to hot mine Ran 195 to 210 with factory fan
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Yeah I agree with you, I'm getting a different engine put in mind sometime in the next 6 months so I'll see if it changes but other than that the entire cooling system is new besides the heater cores. Previous owner put a bunch of stop leak crap in there so possibly some of my block passages are blocked, 220 is way to fucking hot in the winter with no AC running, I don't care what anybody says, granted Vegas Winters are like 40 to 70° but still, lol
 
Do the aftermarket fans not trip the check engine light? Are they simply controlled by the coolant temperature? I had a hard time searching because fan is too short of a word for the search engine. Does anyone have a link to joegr's write ups? I'm pretty sure mine is gone. I have the single 4-wire connector on my 2005 3.9L. I have the fan motor out and am looking for an electrical repair shop in San Diego that can troubleshoot and repair the circuit board to possibly restore my original to working order. So far, not so good. All I have left to do to this car is replacing the valve cover gaskets and the thermostat housing in the cooling system while the fan shroud etc... are out and she is done. This fan issue is making me reconsider keeping her because complicated obsolete parts are needed and getting harder to find.
 
bobsquatch said:
All I have left to do to this car is replacing the valve cover gaskets and the thermostat housing in the cooling system while the fan shroud etc... are out and she is done
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Should be able to pull the T-stat housing without pulling the fan.

And I doubt all you have to do is replace the T-stat housing... unless you have already replaced the other 99% of the cooling system.
 
Absolutely, all oem all the time minus the ac compressor which is still going strong. replaced coils, gas bottle, upper and lower radiator hoses all belts, trans fluid and filter, brakes and so much more... All factory oem parts.
 
Just a review, I am looking for a replacement option for my engine cooling fan that will not trigger the check engine light. I'm in California and can't register it with the CEL on.
 
I replaced the fan in my 05 with a Bosch from a Mercedes V8, all the wires are the same just gotta fit them to the LS plug, its also PWM sensed, I snipped the black wire and ran a switch to the cab so it runs in hot rod mode at all times I can kill switch when at drive thru, worked well and would blow your hair back standing behind the car. fitment was perfect too, I still have the OEM fan but shipment to CA would not be worth it imo for what you can get one at a junk yard for. also did you check the lower thermostat neck where it bolts into engine that's where my mysterious leak was located at. Forscan always told me there was a fault in my fan but it never triggered the check engine light it just stored it in computer for scans.
 
I ended up getting a used one off Ebay. just over $230 shipped. A lot for a junkyard part but since it's obsolete my choices were limited. I installed it and it works. I bled the system correctly it works as it should.
Now I have a new problem. I'm losing coolant. I thought the system was just equalizing as I continued to top it off I found a substantial puddle the next day. I topped the system again to the full cold mark when cold. No leaks while running. upon shutdown the degas bottle fills up to the overflow. I figured that was just the system equalizing so I refrained from topping it off. Still leaving a puddle and cold coolant level is well below 1/2 nowhere near cold full mark. I will repeat the bleed procedure today but I'm fairly sure I have a new problem.
 
bobsquatch said:
No leaks while running. upon shutdown the degas bottle fills up to the overflow. I figured that was just the system equalizing so I refrained from topping it off. Still leaving a puddle and cold coolant level is well below 1/2 nowhere near cold full mark. I will repeat the bleed procedure today but I'm fairly sure I have a new problem.
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Most likely an incomplete system bleed. Probably still air in the system.

Jeff above got the O'Reilly's fan to work... and made no mention of a CEL.
 
I can't remember where I heard it. Could have invented it in my own mind.

I think the auto electric shop I took it to be rebuilt informed it wasn't rebuildable due to internal electrical components they couldn't handle. I think they said it would trigger the CEL because the fan was controlled by the ECM or PCM that would freak out if a fan without the original complex circuitry was used. They are a great shop. (Broadway Auto Electric) in Spring Valley, California but they dont know the LS like the LVC gurus do. Should have searched harder here. Not being able to include the word fan in the search engine kinda messed me up.

I let it sit for a day and it gravity leaked all the way to an empty degas bottle. I'm going to put it on n ramps and pull the plastic pans to see if I can locate the leak. I will fill it up and complete the air bleed procedure before I start looking as it doesn't seem to be leaking while running.
 
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No leaks while running or at shutdown. After about 20 minutes she starts dripping from the front. I may be starting a new thread for it. Going to do a little research first.
 
Water pump... or the head crossover pipe... or the gooseneck pipe coming off the back of the crossover where it bolts to the block (under the throttle body).

Try parking on a slight incline (nose up). If the leak starts dripping at the rear... it's most likely the gooseneck, or the small hose behind the gooseneck.

If the leak is still dripping at the front... one of the small hoses buried under the throttle body, or the water pump (coming out the weep hole because of a failed seal) is most likely the problem.
 
Thank you for the insight. I have a bore scope coming to help me pinpoint the leak. It doesn't look like it's from the water pump but I can't be sure. I will check the gooseneck pipe when I get my camera tomorrow. I think that is the only plastic part I haven't replaced. I will recheck using a slight incline after shutdown and report back.
 
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