00 Lincoln LS (v-8) Check charging system, misfire cyl #8, Variuos PCM Codes

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skinerine

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Looking for some tips as to the problem...I read several threads that have helped some but none matching my problems....Just bought a 2000 Lincoln LS V-8 101,000 miles... And within the month these problems have cropped up:

Check Engine Light comes on.....

We had a noticeable mis at idle and through all speeds.....Took the car to auto zone to have the codes checked....Results: Misfire Cylinder #8, mis-communication with (CAN ??) BUS (might be PCM).......As well as some dealer codes that the tech didn't know

I replaced all plugs (none of the old ones looked fouled, and no oil in the plug chambers) and replaced the coil on cylinder #8..... That fixed the mis for the most part.... reset the engine light by dis-connecting battery... Also replaced battery

This afternoon, the check engine came back on and the "check charging system" came on and off numerous times....I notice a slight back firing in the exhaust at idle and the lights seem to brighten and dim during the backfiring...... Doesn't back fire when raising the idle

I checked with a multi-meter...The battery is 12.5 Volts (not running) 13.0 - 14.0 while running with lights on and a/c on....(Also did a alternator check with battery charger and it was good).......

I read various posts stating the PCM could be bad....Also some bad coils....The list goes on....Since I can't find a repair manual for the vehicle, I'm kind of stuck on what to test and how....

Any help would be awesome...And thanks in advance
 
antonio fuller said:
Is it a OME battery with the air tube port
Click to expand...

Yes sir, the battery has the air tube...I just bought one via Orielly's Auto parts....The recommended one via their computers was the one I bought...It was $130 + for it.....

The previous battery had the green dot window and it wasn't green anymore....Advance did the battery test and it showed low charge but checked out otherwise...I went ahead and replaced the battery since it was old. Even after replacement, it had the miss until I changed the plugs and cylinder #8's coil....And then the other things went wrong a few days later (as posted in the original thread)

Thank you very much for the reply
 
2nd I post earlier about my experience with AutoZone they never cand read the codes right from LS I would get all the "dealer" code understand you can put them up on hear I don't but a lot of the other guys can read them
 
please post all the codes that you found even though autozone does not know what they are most likely we here will. also it is recomemded to replace all the coils and plugs at the same time and we recommend the oem ones but since they fail anyways the autozone or the advance autoparts ones are fine just because they offer 3 year warranty on them and if you have to do the job again for any reason just take all8 coils back. now your pcm could be bad or your alternator could be failing but give us the other codes so we can help you better.
 
You need to replace ALL the coils. You undoubtedly still have a miss. You probably are also in need of an alternator. The LS electrical system is quite delicate.

FWIW, I paid ~$118 for the battery from the dealer.
 
Thanks for the great information....I will take it back to Autozone and have the codes read again....I'll write them down this time and post them here.....

I was trying to avoid replacing all the coils....I know why it's a money pit now....Maybe the codes will register what cylinder is mis-firing now and I can go from there.... Although this mis-fire seems to be different from the original one (sputtering at all speeds vs now just at idle).....

Again, huge thanks for all the replies...and I'll get the codes posted ASAP....
 
You are making the assumption that it is just one cylinder misfiring, and that it is misfiring consistently enough to be detected.
We are making the experience based assumption that is is multiple cylinders that have marginal coils causing misfires that are too random to be clearly detected.
 
There's not a day that goes by where someone posts about marginal coils without knowing it. Replace all coils and all plugs (as mentioned by everyone else) with motorcraft brand or visteon brand (goodluck finding them). No other brand. Correctly gap plugs to 1.0. Prolonged mis-fires will lead to you having to replace ur catalytic converters (around $1,000 each if u want OEM).
 
joegr said:
You are making the assumption that it is just one cylinder misfiring, and that it is misfiring consistently enough to be detected.
We are making the experience based assumption that is is multiple cylinders that have marginal coils causing misfires that are too random to be clearly detected.
Click to expand...

+1

swap all 8 coils because you will end up doing them all anyway in the near future. I wouldn't trust what the OBD reader comes up with for the coils. My first tackling of the coils started with a code for misfire in cylinder 5, had that one swapped at Precision Tune, it didn't fix anything. This is when I found this website after a google search. Read to swap all 8 with plugs, did that and it purred like a kitten. When these guys say to swap all 8 coils, it is for a reason.
 
My battery went shortly before my alternator showed signs of failure (i.e. intermittent "check charging system" warnings). They seem to want to jump off the cliff together.
 
I replaced the plugs with motorcraft plugs (SP-497) and auto zone gave me the required gap @ .044..... I see you said to gap at 1.0..... The old plugs didn't look fouled out at all....

I now have a mis-fire code on cylinder #7 vs the original code of mis-fire on cylinder 8..... And no it is shuttering like hell up to 45mph (which it wasn't doing after I replace the coil on cyl #8 and all the plugs..
 
Give a little up date...Took it back to autozone when the check engine light came back on....Only code is showing now is: Mis fire on cylinder #7 (original problem was a mis-fire on cyl #8) I replaced all the plugs and the coil on cylinder #8 and that stopped the problem for a few days....

Now in addition to the occasional "Check Charging System light"....And the mis-fire code on cyl #7....It is shuddering like hell all the way up to 45mph....I think I bought a POS here....
 
I would personally suspect that its another coil. The OBD II scanners are not particularly helpful in telling you which cylinder is misfiring with these cars based on my experience. I would just bite the bullet and swap all coils. Obviously, it may not fix the charging system issue that exists, although I understand that marginal coils react strangely with the PCM sometimes.
 
So has anyone found a fix for the charging system issue? My cops are fine but on my way into town last night. Haven't found out why yet. Autozone couldn't find where to place their charging system checking device. I'll go again in the morning. Just got my LS yesterday from my father who has taken very good care of it. Drove it to my state 4hrs away and CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM popped up about half way to my condo.
 
Buxford1231 said:
So has anyone found a fix for the charging system issue? My cops are fine but on my way into town last night. Haven't found out why yet. Autozone couldn't find where to place their charging system checking device. I'll go again in the morning. Just got my LS yesterday from my father who has taken very good care of it. Drove it to my state 4hrs away and CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM popped up about half way to my condo.
Click to expand...

They can attach it to the battery in the trunk.
The solution to this issue is almost always to replace the alternator. It's important to replace it with a Motorcraft one, since hardly any other brand works in this car.
 
joegr said:
It makes sense that they would. When one of the two starts to fail, it makes life much harder on the other one.
Click to expand...

bingo! a lot of people never think about the relationship they share...

if your battery fails then on top of the alternator having to drive the entire car, not there is a dead battery putting a ton of extra load on the alt which will soon cause it to fail.

if the alternator dies, then noting is providing power to charge the battery, and now the battery is having to drive 100% of the car right until it drains it completely (which damages this kind of battery) causing it to fail...


your only chance you have at replacing only one when either one fails, it to catch it very early and fix it right away before the stresses get out of hand.
 
Just replaced my alternator on my first gen LS. I want to put a second gen front bumper on soon. Planning to order some carbon fiber exhaust pipes also, I'm gonna cut my first gen rear bumper so that they stick out.
 
~CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM~
Same issue as rest of us.
-i installed a Motorcraft Alternator.
-Installed new Ford/Motorcraft battery.
-Replaced Alternator pigtail connector with a Ford splice kit.
******Will pick up car in AM and will update everyone.

3BE19011-459D-4D3C-87E7-A97D71EBC452.jpeg


64336ADB-AB2F-40B9-8122-BC8320561C43.jpeg
 
Lincoln LS “Check Charging System”
Car is repaired and operational!!
FYI:
~Installed Motorcraft Alternator.
~Installed Motorcraft Battery.
~Installed Ford pigtail connector onto alternator.
 
skinerine said:
Looking for some tips as to the problem...I read several threads that have helped some but none matching my problems....Just bought a 2000 Lincoln LS V-8 101,000 miles... And within the month these problems have cropped up:

Check Engine Light comes on.....

We had a noticeable mis at idle and through all speeds.....Took the car to auto zone to have the codes checked....Results: Misfire Cylinder #8, mis-communication with (CAN ??) BUS (might be PCM).......As well as some dealer codes that the tech didn't know

I replaced all plugs (none of the old ones looked fouled, and no oil in the plug chambers) and replaced the coil on cylinder #8..... That fixed the mis for the most part.... reset the engine light by dis-connecting battery... Also replaced battery

This afternoon, the check engine came back on and the "check charging system" came on and off numerous times....I notice a slight back firing in the exhaust at idle and the lights seem to brighten and dim during the backfiring...... Doesn't back fire when raising the idle

I checked with a multi-meter...The battery is 12.5 Volts (not running) 13.0 - 14.0 while running with lights on and a/c on....(Also did a alternator check with battery charger and it was good).......

I read various posts stating the PCM could be bad....Also some bad coils....The list goes on....Since I can't find a repair manual for the vehicle, I'm kind of stuck on what to test and how....

Any help would be awesome...And thanks in advance
Click to expand...

This resolved all Charging Issues-
Ford pigtail connector to alternator—-
~Also Installed Motorcraft Alternator
~Installed Motorcraft Battery

75CB6781-5206-44B1-B154-ADD24049368E.jpeg
 
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