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ive got a 1st gen ls with the v8 :) im looking for a part number for the uppermanifold to carb coolant line i believe its a plug for the coolant line to run from the manifold to the carb that is under the intake over the manifold i believe there is a plug that the line comes out of it may...

ive had her parked for a while kept overheating on me after a change of dccv think the lil gromet on the bottom of the manifold could be the problem or worse the heater core is punked up ... drove it a couple thousand miles around the lakes to the yards with the heater core bypassed when i...

again from the top new jag thermostat housing it wouldnt keep its cool this time even nice like when i bought it i was thinking it was purging slow but good i burped the hoses a little nice drip steady out the purge watching for 10 minutes got the the mid line on the thermostat had the heater...

does rim size effect wheel speed sensors and advance track issues or just run type issues like a spare will it signal the improper revolutions and or throw a code ??? how do you guys solve the indifferences for instance oversized rims

overheating issue ....i was there but i didnt change the hose and fitting under the manifold and heat pad was in pieces i havnt been able to sucessfully purge the system again after checking the the main timing set ....(Pain pain) the oil cooler was ok i did a full coolant flush before i...

can i install a pull from the yard without having to reprogram like i recall making a backup for what it is worth not much there seems in forscan for file i assume id have to but that convo was for gen2 and not certain ..... also not very much there in options for modules when i did try...

pulled an ABS unit from yard wondering if i can just swap them out .... forscan is limited or i havent found a section to update vin info but do i need to ? gen 1 ls 4.0v8 sport model

so im here got a new tps put it in made a gasket even give it a little love (hi tac ) start it up suddenly im at 2grand and it wont calm down just at 2gRAND and its 1159 pm ... i got a hurricane on the way so i got to get her in the garage before anyway 2grand and holding i had to turn it off...

pulled another abs pump from my year make and model and i got forscan and supposedly backed up the profile but im worried that i dont have enough of a backup if i use forscan i can see where there is the button to load directly from motocraft will that profile be enough to change the serials...

So i do the calibrations and one is interesting the brake booster you can here the slap of the booster and pedal reason im defining is i notice the program taking up my slack in the pedal to booster but it only last for a short time like im wondering if i have a bad bite on the mechanism...

im having trouble running the ABS bleed procedure quits after first command to depress brake pedal *interrupted when running the onboard tests the ABS test passes for connections ...all my tests pass except for P1000 but something must be up with running the bleed tool for it to dump and...

.... anyway so last night running forscan was getting too hot today i opened the fill and noted the bottle down quite a bit from being high to low the fill was down too enough to put a bottle of water in no sign of water on my garage floor :) purging and bleeding may not be enough you have to...

yea i got the forscan app up on win 10 laptop but im wondering where the beef is concerning module preferences there appears to be the modules but not very many options the options are in two module addendums for simple changes like oil time left .... what i was hoping to see was more...

having a problem with abs bleeding if i run the tool i get an interrupted test after the first command to depress the brake pedal and like its less than a second after the command to a red check box stating interrupted test matts 1st gen 3.9 sport :/

my advance track light is flashing it would just come on after a short start up and just stay on ... ive had the batt disconnected a few times and ive had the pressure transducers backwards that is wrong connector location for a short time ...i never got it to turn off after monkeying with it...

so if i switch from 3rd to 2nd even at below normal or slow speed i get a long delay then excessive revolutions like it skips 2nd and drops right into 1st .... im thinking about changing the torque converter already cleaning the solonoid pack and valve body i think part of the torque...

ive been bleeding the coolant system and i dont have a charge on the a/c at all i can get around the block but then my fan starts to rev up and my temps climb i get in the driveway and idle eventually the fan slows down and im back at square 1 should i put some 134 in to equalize to try and get...

finally got her up after looking at primary chains and changing the dccv and oil cooler gaskets new water pump all the appliances re fitted new belt new valve cover gaskets … right now she sounds like when i first got here but is giving me coolant purge problems high fan revs typical and I...

so its time to put the valve covers on I had oil in the tubes in some and water from the park ....duh :/ anyway I did an inspection of the timing set what a pita every appliance and bracket removed to take a look at the tensioners and guides I also wanted to replace the oil cooler...

I got the pulleys for the hydrolic fan pump and the steering pump off with a cheap puller the two piece deal..... putting them back on is so tight I cant even think straight and I am questioning how far to go I was expecting the pulley to bottom out but it looks like im getting past the point...