Mortor is built
I think boost is around 15psi needs more .
Not a stock radiator fan
It is and air to air intercooler
Its never ran very good I'm fairly certain the motor has to come out cause I believe the tuner blew the head gasket. At least I hope thats all he did
fits under stock hood
I have dual 255 fuel pumps with a boost-a-pump. Stock tensioner was thinking of getting a thump. Mine does have a shorter radiator but I have seen people use stock ones
To my understanding a fpr can't change how much fuel goes in the motor that's done by the computer.
Unless you need more fuel pressure to feed bigger injectors or to compensate for added accelerant like nitrous.
As stated before look at the maf.
May have a vacuum leak or bad o2 also.
A be controls valve body recalibration kit will help a ton with faster up shifts and down shifts.
As Chris said I too can hold my car in 1 and 2 if I want its a 97
O and the what if it blows up
You can buy a whole running driving mark for under $1000
Just picked up a mark motor for a friend for $250
The yard by me has 3 at $226 each.
You can tune the car to run on 87 if you want also.
What?
Show me your better torque curve
Show me a stock cv betting a stock mark (both running good)
And better stock gearing being we both have the same gears in the trans that leaves
A wopping difference of 3.27 to 3.55's woho.
You question was answered post #5
I'm here just don't have any money for real mods
Maybe someday you will be in Minnesota so I can get a ride
I would love to feel what the cams are like
Can't wait to see your dyno graph.
Edit: I should say ride in a n/a car with cams my buddy has comp cams but it also has a d1sc.
This sounds awesome I always wanted to do a NA build on my mark
I saw this the other day maybe it will help
http://tcstangs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108695
actually it was a disagreement between the two main designers of the vett don't remember the names but one liked it the other hated it
read the info in a few vette books and on American muscle car
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