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I don't see why they wouldn't. Simply swap the coils out (Safely). It should be a level ride depending on what isolators were supplied with the kit. Sometimes poeple get a saggy rear when converting, it's fixed by using - Rear Coil Spring Isolator Pads - Ford Mustang - 61709

If it isn't misfiring I wouldn't bother with the coils. I would put in some basic Autolite Plats, change fuel/air filter and be sure that the imrc are working properly.

It's nice to see you back in a M8, Jamie. Looking forward to the progress!

It's a gen 1. Drivers seat track - Yes Passenger seat track - Maybe Driveshaft ('93 one piece) - Yes Headlights - Yes if clear, non peeling Taillights - Meh Navigation Unit (Eclipse) Yes Back seats - No Cooling fan - Yes Alternator - No ABS pump? (or is 98 only valuable?) - IDK I mean...

You might want to pm him the numbers, not sure if Bruce and Carlos want their numbers out there.

Hard to say. My guess is that the majority of the M8's roaming around at ride height are indeed converted. But again, a guess. If your car is in otherwise good shape I don't think it'll matter too much when it comes time to resell it. Lower mileage M8's in good shape are not all that prevalent...

In your case it may be worth it to get the re-bagged (Westar?) units. If you do decide to go the hassle free route leave the ends of the lines/solonoids/plugs wrapped in plastic and the compressor unplugged to help preserve them.If the next owner is indeed a purist he'll be happy to see that...

"Easiest" would be a tune but the cost is $3-$400 last I checked. The intake is sufficient so you can leave that alone. There is a "snorkel" below the airbox that you can remove, it provides more intake sound than anything. Deleting the third cat and replacing it with an x-pipe can help the...

Well, it's getting power. I'd start with inspecting the two connectors that are attached to the perimeter of the glass. Iirc, one is on the drivers side and one on top.

If a MAF is faulty it would effect both banks. I bet you dropped that #1 coil. Swap it out with a different cyl and see if the misfire follows.

Depends on how much oil was down there. If it was a little I wouldn't be too concerned. That is a sign that the little circular gaskets between the valve cover and head are a little worn. Honestly, if it's not a lot dry them up and check them after a few thousand miles. Was the misfire on one of...

I've heard of somebody doing this with good results. I inspected mine a few weeks ago via removing the display and found that the reinforcement I did a decade ago is letting loose but still functional 90% of the time. I was able to wrap a zip tie around it, what good it do over my old...

Does it sound like a old creaking barn door?

The base is a modified gen2 assembly. I used a pair of door handle bezel leds as the cupholder back light. Subwoofer port cut to size (4"~ deep/3.25~W and will actually hold a drink), oem console vinyl (?), generic usb/voltmeter and 20a outlet. Cupholder uses the existing ashtray light wires...

So I did this... image hosting services free

Note to self: Start hanging out at truckstops.

Make sure you get pictures of all the problem areas (Rust) from the dealer. The last thing you want is a crusty car from the north.

It's your money, do what makes you happy. I just can't imagine spending that much for a 20 year old car unless it has low low miles. Even then it would be a hard sell knowing that it'll still likely need work done.

They're both overpriced so hard to say. <50k mile Mark viii's usually get around $7-9k. Realistically (Imo), the 97 lsc should be between $4-5k on the high end and the CE probably $5.5-6.5k.

Motors themselves are good with no internal issues that I can think of. Some cars have timing chain rattle at startup but goes away after a few seconds. Fwiw, my 97 has no noise @ 177k. Use a Motorcraft FL-820s and your choice of either 5-20 or 5-30 oil. The most common place to leak oil from is...