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Oh yeah, that is kind of weird that the rear and door speakers are in parallel and then all 4 tweeters have an independent channel from the amplifier. But maybe the rear and door speakers are either 6 ohm or 8 ohm, so in parallel they would still fall within an acceptable range for car audio...

At this point you might almost be better off to get an amp bypass cable and just run your speakers off of the headunit's built in amp, unless it's low level only. -Rod

Help us understand better "Install the headunit to the original harness with the Metra 70 5510, the rca cables that lead to the 8 pin connections were garbage and didn't fit properly so I spliced the +/- ends into their wiring respectively." So you installed an aftermarket head unit and are...

I'm a bit late to the party. Do you happen to have an oscilloscope to help determine if the 9V to the one DCCV valve is pulsed 12V (PWM) or actually 9V? I don't recall if the DCCV is able to get a PWM signal or not. I'm guessing not since trying to restrict water flow with a valve at a high...

If it's fuse F101 (10A) that's blowing, I believe from the wiring diagram that fuse also powers the auxiliary coolant pump on the V8. -Rod

Be careful with such absolute statements. You would certainly not be the first person to have received bad new parts out of the box, or had parts get damaged during the installation process. Sure, if the symptoms don't change at all, then suspecting a new part would not be the first thing to...

Yep, the SSP1 relay is part of the circuit and it appears that the SSP1 relay would affect multiple other circuits as well. -Rod

Yep, if you measure continuity all the way from fuse F210 to where you cut the wire, the issue is going to be between the supply side terminal of F210 and the battery. I'll need to dig into the factory service manual to determine what's between the battery and F210. I'm not sure I'll get to...

Is that voltage what you read on both legs of the fuse? What if you remove the fuse and check the voltage at the fuse box terminal? Also, you might want to check for continuity from fuse F210 to the wire you cut in the harness. It will probably require an extension chunk of wire, but if you...

As mentioned above, if the circuit is not getting power, but is getting ground, the problem will not be the FEM. The FEM only controls the ground for the lights. Reading back over your first post, I see you mention that you checked the fuses and that the issue is on the driver's (left) side...

Are you sure it's the plug in the regulator and not the wiring within the door or the accordion boot between the door and the cab? It's not uncommon for wires to fail in these areas that are subject to a lot of movement, and that would also help explain why it was only working when the door was...

Thank you for following up with what you found. Sounds like Joegr was on the right path once again. -Rod

When you say it wouldn't "crank at all" do you mean that the start motor doesn't even try to spin the engine over, or does the engine spin but it just won't start and run? The two can have drastically different diagnostic methods. When you went through the intersection was there a severe crown...

So to be clear, you're referring to the nut at the end of the strut shaft, correct, not the strut tower studs that mount the strut plate to the strut towers? When you attempt to tighten it down, is the strut rod spinning as you attempt to tighten it further? Is the nut spinning but the rod is...

Yep, no doubt there will be exceptions. Like the the dolphin-like noise on my Lincoln MKS that my ChassisEar suggests is loudest at the ABS HCU. However after replacing, reprogramming, and bleeding the HCU, the noise has not changed. The ChassisEar doesn't pick up the noise as loudly on...

I've not been able to connect my scan tool to an MKZ Hybrid yet, but on the Hondas and Toyota's I've connected it to, there's always been a menu for the hybrid battery with various "battery health" parameters that seem useful in gauging battery condition. On the Honda it even provided enough...

I'm surprised it's not been mentioned here yet, so maybe I missed something. But consider using a cooling system pressure tester to pressurize the cooling system to the cap pressure while you're ready to search for the leak. This hopefully will allow you to pinpoint the leak while the engine...

On your car at the socket for the parking light/turn signal there is one power line and two grounds. The Orange/Blue tracer wire is actually the power wire, NOT ground. It's unclear from the wiring diagram which ground is for the turn signals and which is for the parking lights, but when...

I think in this case, since it sounds like the voltage reading is present until the signal is activated, the issue would be in the supply side. The good ground path through the FEM would then explain why the voltage would drop to zero when the signal (ie: ground path) is activated. If the...

How does that 11.8V at the bulb compare with if you measure at the battery directly? What year is your LS? With the voltage dropping to nothing with the turn signal activated, that sounds to me like a bad connection, either loose or corroded, in the supply to the turn signal. The high input...