Search results for query: *

Get a Gen II... don't be afraid to travel for a deal!

I was about to say... the 03+ LS's can beat most all of those times

NICE JOB Jamie!!! Trailer that thing to him and have a local cheap paint place spray it.

Oh, and for Number 2... I would think it should show up. I suppose in theory, there could be ways that it wouldn't, but how likely that is... well, it's questionable.

Wished I could tell you... but I don't know what it calls for. If you know a GOOD dealership, the service dept should be willing to tell you.

I'd have to verify, but I believe 98 and earlier were teksid... they did build them from 99-01, but they were a limited production and enhanced design; not likely to find them in a cobra... as I recall, they were a ford racing part. EDIT: I stand corrected, WAP came in 01, some left over...

buy it now for $150.... even worth considering for $1000. If you plan to do a power adder later on, do yourself a favor and throw in forged rods and pistons. You already have the forged crank and assuming it's in good shape, it will be a mostly bolt together operation. You'd have to pull the...

No kidding?!?!? Rural... I suppose I can understand. I just did a little further research btw... not's not mandated for all highways as I originally thought. Rather, a sizeable number of states mandate it's use on highways. Anyhow... long story short, it's safe.

Evap equipment doens't have a "life-span" so to speak... It would appear however that the Mark's tray has a limited life span... What exactly does the tray do? I'm curious about this myself.

As far as the tray goes... I have no idea... but the evap canisters clean the air vented from the gas tank; it prevents the evaporated hydrocarbons from being released into the atmosphere. You won't find any gasoline that doesn't have 10% ethanol for highway use. You could find it at a...

Oh of course... But can they be rented? I don't know... I have all of that stuff. Anyhow, my assumption (maybe that's where I went wrong) was that we were talking about someone equipped and capable to build a push-rod engine and the validity of the idea that they could also build an OHC...

My thoughts exactly... It's already out, why not replace the bearings which have likely seen tens of millions of revolutions? Doesn't add much cost... $400 is reasonable. Setting up a rearend is a pretty exacting process and, depending on many variables... could be rather time...

By all means... if you can actually BUILD a push-rod engine, you should be capable of BUILDING an OHC engine. Of course, this is assuming we're actually talking about BUILDING one... not doing a short block swap. I'm starting to get the impression that a few of you know of people who...

Long story short, do a full diagnosis, checking for vacuum, fluid level, fluid contamination, brake line obstructions and the like.

For reference, a failed booster can be either a pedal that's too low and lacks resistance, or a pedal that is much too firm. And to save the argument, I even made sure to get some supporting documentation: Remember, a booster can fail in more than one manor, which will give you different...

Being careful, it can, in theory be done without any special tools. I didn't say it's easy, but again... anyone who has some mechanical experience and can follow instructions should be able to do it. Yes, the cam positioning tools come in handy for either the SOHC or DOHC engine; but it's not...

My point on different opinions for gears has now been illustrated! :D

Top end... shouldn't be much of an issue; Redline in OD will still get in excess of 150MPH. I did a lot of math and figuring for different gear ratio's with different transmissions (4R70W and T-56) in the performance thread; if you search you may be able to find it. But, I think I was a...

Have you installed a shift kit or J-mod yet? I'd look at doing that first; it's relatively cheap to do and your shifts (both up and down) will improve a lot. I put a B&M Kit into my 98 F-150 w/ 4R70W and it made a huge improvement (which I still own- It's a reliable mod so don't worry about...

take it to court, see if they will drop it to failure to yield; should save you on the insurance. If you can find the parts, it shouldn't be too hard to get it looking normal again. But if you want good paint that matches, I think you'll be looking at more than the car is worth. Myself...