Fuse #6 blows instantly

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martz0r

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This is pissing me off on my 93. I noticed my door locks didn't work, neither do my interior lights or sun visor lights. Whenever I try and replace the #6 fuse, it instantly blows. Here's all what runs off that fuse...

-Courtesy lamps
-Dome lamp switch
-Keyless entry module
-Memory seat module
-Power mirrors

I disconnected the power at the power mirror switch, driver's side seat motors are non-existant and I tried unplugging the pass. seat motors, and removed the dome lamp and checked the connections with no obvious shorts.

Anyone ever had a problem with this particular fuse? I hate wiring and hope maybe someone has had this problem before and could pin-point the issue or help with any suggestions on where to look next. All the other fuses appeared to have the correct amp ratings and be OK.

Thanks!
 
I would pull the keyless entry module in the trunk. The box on the driver side, has your keypad entry code. One member just had one burnt up! I think this box also control memory seating, I forget. But I know it controls interior lighting since I had to spice lights to it for my opera lighting (light fading module).

You may also want to inspect the harness that runs along the driver side trunk hinge. Take is ALL apart. Feel the wires even if they look okay. I had a short there and lost brake lights and had a goofy trunk or fuel door release problem.
 
Cool, thanks for the advice. I figured the keyless entry module would be my next step (and thanks for the location)... I just received a keyless entry remote off eBay today and would like to get the whole system working soon.

On a side note, the remote I received is stamped "Driver door only" on the front of it. Any idea what that means? Only unlocks the drivers door?
 
Usually they are labeled one or two (you can store up to three seat configurations). The remotes are labeled one or two for matching a seat configuration. If you press both memory seat buttons at once, you get a third.

And for unlocking, the remote will only unlock the driver side door when pressed. Press again quickly for it to unlock passenger door. So no remote should really need to be labeled driver door only. I suspect the transmitter is not an original Ford unit. And OEM unit will have the Lincoln star on it.

FYI: If you use the keypad to unlock the door, pressing the unlock command (I think its number 5 after code) and then 3/4 will unlock passenger door if done quickly. I think, I dont have a Mark anymore and its all from memory. But if you dont have a manual, get one. There is a few things that can be done from the keypad if you dont already know.
 
unity..
on the door pad.
five digit code to open the driver side door, button 3/4 to open passenger, 5/6 to open trunk.
 
Yeah, I have a manual. Unfortunately, due to my whole fuse problem I am unable to use the RKE system including door pad.

I tried unhooking the keyless entry module today and the fuse still pops.

Does dome lamp switch refer to the actual switch on the dome lamp above your head? Or the switch on the instrument panel brightness adjuster? I guess I'll check there next...
 
Check those wires mentioned earlier. The ones on the driver's side trunk hinge. When you unplug the module to see if your short goes away make sure you unplug ALL 3 plugs. There's one on the front and two on the back. If you need any wiring diagrams let me know, I have Alldata.
 
Unscrew the dome lamp switch in the front of the door jamb and pull some of the wiring out and see if it's melted together. Be sure and check both sides also. I've had this happen in a 95 I had, blowing that same fuse.
 
Bigger fues = bad idea.

There is a problem in the circuit, if the fuse is too big, you may end up burning wires, and possibly having a car-be-que.
 
96 mark viii said:
Check those wires mentioned earlier. The ones on the driver's side trunk hinge. When you unplug the module to see if your short goes away make sure you unplug ALL 3 plugs. There's one on the front and two on the back. If you need any wiring diagrams let me know, I have Alldata.
Click to expand...

Will do. I did make sure to unplug all connectors, I even unbolted the module from the body to be sure.

chargerxr said:
Unscrew the dome lamp switch in the front of the door jamb and pull some of the wiring out and see if it's melted together. Be sure and check both sides also. I've had this happen in a 95 I had, blowing that same fuse.
Click to expand...

I'll definitely try that. I was hoping someone had the same fuse blow in the past to pin point a likely location. I'll check there too.

Yeah, I BRIEFLY tried a 20a (only because I was running out of 15s lol) but no luck. I sure as hell wouldn't keep a bigger fuse in there... Thanks guys I'll let ya know what I find.
 
Someone have a picture of the wiring on that circuit? I have wirin diagrams, but they are on my computer, at home.
 
Something else that you might want to check but I doubt it's related to the fuse blowing but could cause a problem down the road. Pull the headlight switch out and check to make sure the harness that plugs into the back isn't melted and warped. Those switches were updated in 95 I think. I had one in my 94 that was warped from melting but luckily, the new updated switch was still able to plug into it. A lot of people know nothing about the switch being updated after mid 94 or 95.

You will have to remove the harness to see what I'm talking about, if yours is melted.
 
That diagram may not apply as there are a lot of differences between a 93 and 96. Still worth a shot.
 
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