Mustang GT 17 inch rim fitment

You dont get it (what Im suggesting) but thats OK.

Brad

Of course I get what your saying. The thing is please answer my ? about the scarfs. If you want this rim to slid over the 4.250 BC there will HAVE to be a scarf like I did.
 
When we do a redrill with inserts its more common with a wheel that has an open lug pocket. A closed lug pocket (Like your wheels) with a lug cover just gets another set of lug holes. Regardless when we use inserts we press the inserts in the original holes then redrill to desired pattern for a conical lug.

Brad
 
When we do a redrill with inserts its more common with a wheel that has an open lug pocket. A closed lug pocket (Like your wheels) with a lug cover just gets another set of lug holes. Regardless when we use inserts we press the inserts in the original holes then redrill to desired pattern for a conical lug.

Brad

Brad love the input. I don't want you to think I'm being a jerk just want to ask ?. On my rims you would redrill pattern correct? If so do you think drilling 5 new holes is stronger and less intrusive then a .030 scarf cut? This scarf cut is also a radius not a sharp or sqaure corner to start crack.
 
This mod is similar to the slotted way the old Cragars were in the '70's, no? They didn't use inserts then from what I recall. I'd have used a shanked lugnut+washer, but it looks fine otherwise?
 
This mod is similar to the slotted way the old Cragars were in the '70's, no? They didn't use inserts then from what I recall. I'd have used a shanked lugnut+washer, but it looks fine otherwise?

Yes 100%!! I forgot about Cragar SST's. You would buy the oval washers that sits in the reses. You could buy different bolt pattern oval washers. These washers would waffle in too, weakish. This is no 3/4 inch slot lol. .030!!
 
Brad love the input. I don't want you to think I'm being a jerk just want to ask ?. On my rims you would redrill pattern correct? If so do you think drilling 5 new holes is stronger and less intrusive then a .030 scarf cut? This scarf cut is also a radius not a sharp or sqaure corner to start crack.

Not at all, I dont want to come off as one either.:)

Without question I and anyone else in the business would rather drill another set of lug holes when doing a redrill on a closed pocket wheel like yours. Nobody in the industry likes inserts but its part of the business.

I only say inserts in your case because of what you have already done. However its not too late to do another set of lug holes either.

Brad
 
Yes 100%!! I forgot about Cragar SST's. You would buy the oval washers that sits in the reses. You could buy different bolt pattern oval washers. These washers would waffle in too, weakish. This is no 3/4 inch slot lol. .030!!

You guys are talking about an ET style lug pocket. Oblong lug hole using an ET Shank style lugnut to bolster the lug pocket. The Shank of the lug slid in the slot adding support.

Your wheels have a similar oblong gap but no shanked lug which OR an insert would do the same thing.

BTW...Those ET type wheels were an assache to keep torqued down. A less than brilliant idea really.

Brad
 
I just can't see where your coming from to tell the truth. What do you think is going to happen with the scarfs? What I did is no diiferance in what ford did where they counter sunk the area of the rim around the lugs. (making a scarf cut) I machine parts and modify stuff all my life thats what I do and this mod is so low on my radar it does not even read. I know you do wheels and thats your thing. Just can't see the fuss for .030 scarf.
 
You guys are talking about an ET style lug pocket. Oblong lug hole using an ET Shank style lugnut to bolster the lug pocket. The Shank of the lug slid in the slot adding support.

Your wheels have a similar oblong gap but no shanked lug which OR an insert would do the same thing.

BTW...Those ET type wheels were an assache to keep torqued down. A less than brilliant idea really.

Brad

I'm gonna hit you with this now , your concern is now stud support? If so Ford does a bigger gap then me. The way my lugs are done,no shank into rim. Ford does the exact same way on there truck rims. These are same as my 1997 F-150 with alum rims and lugs. If Ford can do it and sell millions like this its, ok in my book.
 
I just can't see where your coming from to tell the truth. What do you think is going to happen with the scarfs? What I did is no diiferance in what ford did where they counter sunk the area of the rim around the lugs. (making a scarf cut) I machine parts and modify stuff all my life thats what I do and this mod is so low on my radar it does not even read. I know you do wheels and thats your thing. Just can't see the fuss for .030 scarf.

You have a large void around the stud now that was not there before you reamed the lug holes. Now you are depending completely on the stud and the wheel isnt supporting anything. So you have the lug/stud clamping strength but there is not a sturdy pocket between the stud and the wheel now.

Im not a designer or a machinist. If you are either one then maybe you know best, but nobody in the wheel business would give that work the knod and I dont mean that as disrespect at all. I think you have madd skills but you should have done more research on this one.

Brad
 
I'm gonna hit you with this now , your concern is now stud support? If so Ford does a bigger gap then me. The way my lugs are done,no shank into rim. Ford does the exact same way on there truck rims. These are same as my 1997 F-150 with alum rims and lugs. If Ford can do it and sell millions like this its, ok in my book.

Thats a pilot hub. Do you have a pilot hub?? No...

I would also add (edit) that FORD designed it that way. So the studs are capable of X and apparently deliver enough clamping paired with the pilot hubs. BTW and hub piloted wheel looks NOTHING like what you did.

Brad
 
You have a large void around the stud now that was not there before you reamed the lug holes. Now you are depending completely on the stud and the wheel isnt supporting anything. So you have the lug/stud clamping strength but there is not a sturdy pocket between the stud and the wheel now.

Im not a designer or a machinist. If you are either one then maybe you know best, but nobody in the wheel business would give that work the knod and I dont mean that as disrespect at all. I think you have madd skills but you should have done more research on this one.

Brad

Did you notice the billet alum hub adapters I made to locate the rims?These are a slight pressfit on hub and a .001 slip fit into rim. These are same width as the rim. The rim NOW cannot move up or down at all and is supported. There is 0 bending stresses on studs. Yes or no? And yes I'm am a class A prototype machinist on manual lathe and miller. This was my high school course so have been doing it since I was 16 in the working field. 43 now.
 
I have always liked those rims for some reason.I'm not sure how I like them on a Mark but still some good info though.
 
Thats a pilot hub. Do you have a pilot hub?? No...

I would also add (edit) that FORD designed it that way. So the studs are capable of X and apparently deliver enough clamping paired with the pilot hubs. BTW and hub piloted wheel looks NOTHING like what you did.

Brad

Here are the rings
000_0170.jpg

Here are the billet rear rotor rings also. The front rotors are hub centric.
000_0177.jpg
 
Even if you now have a backyard pilot hub, are the studs strong enough to support a pilot hub? I dont know. Do your lug holes resemble a pilot hub wheel?? Not in my opinion. Was that wheel ever intended to be applied to a pilot hub? No... Am I trying to piss you off?? Not at all, but it seems as though you are upset.

Let just agree to disagree maybe. I enjoy the debate and the healthy injection of wheel info on the LVC though.

Brad
 
Nope I love it ,like debate team. You state I don't have something or did something crazy bad and I reply. You say I did no research on this and really don't know what I did. I try to explain everything I looked at and researched thats all I can do. And yes we agree to disagree. LOL
 
I think I may still have an old SST in my garage someplace with a 50 Series on it :rolleyes:
 

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