LS torque conv lockup

55CrownVic

55CrownVic

Active LVC Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Messages
81
Reaction score
4
Location
Collinsville, OK
New member with a question. Getting check transmission message. Lincoln dealer diag problem with codes p0741, p0743. TCC failure. TCC will not engage at times. They recommended new converter and transmission for cost of almost $4000.00. Is the lockup clutch replaceable separately without trans. removal or should I just bite the bullet and spend the 4 grand. Car has 105000 miles. Thanks for any help/advice.
 
Priced it with and without the trans. Said if any shavings or metal particles had come off in converter they would work into trans since the fluid is common to both. Should I try and drain a quart or two out of trans and check the fluid? If it is clean I should only need converter. That was priced at $2100.00. Do you know if the lockup clutch is replaceable separately and if so, without removing trans? Thanks.
 
I should add that the trans works fine. Shifts, downshifts,etc. smoothly as always. Have had to put about 400 miles on car since the first check trans message. Went about 200 of them before 2nd message and now comes on after about 5 or 6 miles. Converter doesn't seem to be locking judging by tach.
 
2100! Sh!t, you could buy a TCI installed for half that!

Yes, you need to pull the trans for any converter work.. I would replace the whole converter and I don't think they piece them separately..
 
I thought that was too high, too. Ford parts list it for around $500 so that would make labor $1600. My expertise is more in the 50s, 60, and 70s but I think for that amount I will try it myself. Don't know if I want to trust independent shop or Amoco shop.
 
55CrownVic said:
Priced it with and without the trans. Said if any shavings or metal particles had come off in converter they would work into trans since the fluid is common to both. Should I try and drain a quart or two out of trans and check the fluid? If it is clean I should only need converter. That was priced at $2100.00. Do you know if the lockup clutch is replaceable separately and if so, without removing trans? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Does this mean that the haven't dropped the pan to do the diagnosis? If so, it may even be possible that you only need the solenoid valve assembly and not the converter. If they have dropped the pan and do know that the converter is bad, then they should know if there is metal or not.

If there is metal in circulation, most of it will be stuck to the magnet in the bottom of the pan. Draining some fluid wouldn't tell you nearly as much and dropping the pan and looking at the magnet.

AFAIK, the transmission has to be removed to change the converter.
 
55CrownVic said:
I thought that was too high, too. Ford parts list it for around $500 so that would make labor $1600. My expertise is more in the 50s, 60, and 70s but I think for that amount I will try it myself. Don't know if I want to trust independent shop or Amoco shop.
Click to expand...

AAMCO = All Automatics Must Come Out. No matter what, they will say you need a new (rebuilt) transmission.
 
They didn't say anything about dropping pan and didn't charge for any fluid so don't think they did. I know the trans has to come out to change converter but does it have to be removed to replace solenoid valve assembly?
 
Ok. From the way the trans performs I think I will try to drop pan, replace solenoid assembly, replace filter and fluid and see if it fixes problem. Thanks to everyone for the help. Nice to get good responses like this for my first post.
 
Is the converter making any noise?
Does it slip all the time?
How many miles are on the car?
Does it shift in all gears?
Is the service trans light always on? "E" DISPLAED?
With the engine off and the key on will it display the gear slected?
iv had a crash corse on the 5r55n and it wasnt by choice.. took it to aamco.. there a dam joke!!!
anyway ill try to help ya with this iv gattered a ton of info on the problems with this trans.
you will need a pdf reader..
http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/116/original/TS7-BW-090-093.pdf?1289926275
2004 ATRA Seminar Manual.pdf check out the ford sec. on the ATRA Manual. ATSG-http://akpp-texpost.ru/5R55N.pdf
 
Last edited:
Can't hear any noise. Acts like older non-locking converter-tap the gas at 50 or 60 MPH and tach will climb a couple hundred rpm with no speed increase. Car has 105000 miles. Up-shifts both auto and manual thru each gear. Downshifts ok. Light is off when car started then after 5 or 6 miles (less if get on highway and speed up) the check transmission message and "E" come on. Resets when key off. Engine off and key on shows gear selection. I've had to drive this about 500 miles since first message and no problems except the apparent no lockup. About 200 miles between first and second occurrence. Shorter intervals now.
 
are you saying that it only slips at highway speed? or does it slip at all speeds?
Its pressure related.. but sounds like it could be one of 3 things. there are screens in the gasket for the solenoids that could be clogged. it also could be you TCC bore has worn. or that the line control valve is clogged or stuck. it is located in the pump. if that is stuck you can sometimes unplug the trans and put the car in reverse. witch cause the trans to go to full pressure and mite unstick the valve. It doesnt sound like you need a new soleniod pack. altho some would think that after they installed a new pack it fixed the problem. but all the time it was the screen in the gasket that were clogged. do not clean the screens with solvent!!!!!
good luck.
I would have someone do a pressure test on the trans..
 
p0743 is a code for open torque convertor clutch solenoid circuit. Check the connectors on the trans for water or corrosion. If ok, solenoid pack will probably fix problem. p0741 is probably caused by p0743 since the clutch won't lock because of he solenoid.
 
tried to ohm out the circuit for TCC sol. going from fuse 106 to pin 5 of term block 175B. Can not figure out how to get to 175B. Removed right side inner fender panel and can see it and probably get it unplugged but don't think I can get it back in. Can one get to connector on transmission easily? Am going to drain fluid, remove pan and check for any metal shavings or crud. If connector is ok and fluid looks good, I will replace the sol.pack after I check screens that bigstick 1973 talked about. Thanks for the info.
 
My experience with dealers is they are full of sh!t. They just want your money. A few years ago i had a problem with my wife's Dodge Intrepid. The car requires ATF+4 or something like that and at that time it was only available at chrylser dealers. I didnt know that and topped it off with something different. The tranny light came on and it drove a little funky. Took it to the dealer, told them what i did, and they told me i needed the whole thing rebuilt. I thought that was extreme and told them to just do a trans fluid flush. Well, 80k+ miles later it still drives fine, never needed a rebuild. Not saying this is the case with you, but i have learned not to trust a dealer in there diagnosis in cases like this.

When your talking that kind of money i would get a 2nd and 3rd opinion.
 
Ok. Got the pan off the trans. Fluid was a little dark but mostly reddish. Small amount of black gunk on magnet-probably wear off of the clutches, not grainy like metal. Has anyone ever gotten the solenoid plug off with trans in car? I can feel the retaining bolt with one finger but can't get a wrench on it and not sure of the size. Need fingers like a lemur with the strength of a gorilla. Kinda hard to ohm out the solenoid pack if I can't get the plug out.
 
55CrownVic said:
Ok. Got the pan off the trans. Fluid was a little dark but mostly reddish. Small amount of black gunk on magnet-probably wear off of the clutches, not grainy like metal. Has anyone ever gotten the solenoid plug off with trans in car? I can feel the retaining bolt with one finger but can't get a wrench on it and not sure of the size. Need fingers like a lemur with the strength of a gorilla. Kinda hard to ohm out the solenoid pack if I can't get the plug out.
Click to expand...
It takes a lot of effort, but you can get the solenoid disconnected while the transmission is in the car. You can either cut down a combination wrench or proceed very carefully with a socket wrench. My Craftsman 1/4" ratchet would not fit, but a cheap one I had laying around had the end of ratcheting end of it small enough to get down on the bolt.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 274 (members: 2, guests: 272)
Back
Top