Change radiator now no heat

bwv2k

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I have a 01 ls and I recently changed the radiator and bled the cooling system. After warming car up today I turned on the heat but didn't have any. I have been reading the threads so I checked a couple of things out.

I checked the three lines going to the heater core. Only the bottom line is too hot to touch. The other two are warm but not excessively hot. Next I did a self-diagnosis text on the climate control unit ( key on, hold off and floor simultaneously then touch auto button) and got all eights. Any sugesstions on what to do next?
 
Why did you change the radiator?
V8 or V6?

Did you follow the bleeding procedure for gen I? At the end were you getting a good and constant stream of water out?
 
it's a v6 and I have bled this about four times. I changed radiator because it had a crack in it. each time I get a steady stream from the bleed heater bleed valve. but no heat.
 
it's a v6 and I have bled this about four times. I changed radiator because it had a crack in it. each time I get a steady stream from the bleed heater bleed valve. but no heat.

I think that leaves the probability that the process disturbed some gunk in the cooling system and it has clogged the DCCV and/or the Tee in the upper radiator hose. I suggest that you take the DCCV out and clean it really well. If you find and gunk, then you should flush the whole cooling system before you put the DCCV back in.
 
Only the bottom line is too hot to touch. The other two are warm but not excessively hot.

this makes me believe that this is correct

the process disturbed some gunk in the cooling system and it has clogged the DCCV and/or the Tee in the upper radiator hose.

if the DCCV was working properly, then the tube going in should be the same temp(or at-least near it) as the tubes going out (when the heat is on high anyways)
 
Thanks. I will pulled the DCCV and flush system. What about the t-stat? Do you think that has anything to do with it?
 
Thanks. I will pulled the DCCV and flush system. What about the t-stat? Do you think that has anything to do with it?

Only if your engine temperature gauge isn't reading in the center after a few minutes with the engine running.
 
not sure if you figured it out yet. I did a bunch of work to an ls' cooling system before.. In order to burp it correctly, i used a suction bleeder. I sucked everything out of the cooling system until the radiator hoses were pinched together, then i put the hose in the coolant and opened the valve... It allowed only coolant and no air to get in. Its a special tool. Its also the best way to fill your trans.. Good luck.

suction.jpg
 
Only if your engine temperature gauge isn't reading in the center after a few minutes with the engine running.

Joegr is correct. I just changed out my t-stat and found that it was stuck all the way open. My car would not warm up and not blow any hot air out. I do not know about your V-6, but my V-8 LS has the plastic housing that got busted when the t-stat failed because of the pin extending too far out. Another possible factor is that the plastic got soft around where the pin sets. I paid around 100 bucks for the t-stat and the housing. Very easy to change out. You have to bleed the system again though. I did not get any hot air out of my heater until I bled the system. Good luck. Hope this helps.
 
I pulled the dccv, cleaned it and replaced the t-stat and upper radiator hoses. bled system but still no heat. Any sugesstions?

note. when I bleed system I get steady stream from bleed valve at the degras bottle
 
I pulled the dccv, cleaned it and replaced the t-stat and upper radiator hoses. bled system but still no heat. Any sugesstions?

note. when I bleed system I get steady stream from bleed valve at the degras bottle

Re Bleed.. It can take up to 3 times..
 
I pulled the dccv, cleaned it and replaced the t-stat and upper radiator hoses. bled system but still no heat. Any sugesstions?

note. when I bleed system I get steady stream from bleed valve at the degras bottle

I think that you are left with possibilities of:
1. The DCCV is bad.
2. The heater cores are clogged.
3. The DATC is bad.

You can eliminate #3 as a possibility by unplugging the electrical connector at the DCCV. With the connector unplugged, you should get full heat on both sides. If you do, then it's the DATC. If not, then it's #1 or #2. #1 happens a lot, but I've never heard of #2 happening with an LS.
 
if it is the DATC would a code show up when self- diag test is run? Also I have bleed problbly 4 or 5 times folowing the procedures o the tee, drain radiator, open heater valve, open bleeder valve etc etc and still no heat. Also unplugged connector at the radiator and still no heat. Would a flush do the trick?
 
if it is the DATC would a code show up when self- diag test is run? Also I have bleed problbly 4 or 5 times folowing the procedures o the tee, drain radiator, open heater valve, open bleeder valve etc etc and still no heat. Also unplugged connector at the radiator and still no heat. Would a flush do the trick?

DATC codes for the DCCV will only show up if there is an electrical problem with either or both of the solenoid coils. No code will be set if the valves are stuck or clogged.
 
if heater core is clogged would the hoses at the firewall to the heater core be hot? Mine are cold. In fact the hose at the tee is not hot nor the hoses going into the dccv
 
if heater core is clogged would the hoses at the firewall to the heater core be hot? Mine are cold. In fact the hose at the tee is not hot nor the hoses going into the dccv

If either the heater cores or the DCCV were clogged (or if the DCCV valves are stuck closed), the heater hoses will be cold.

On the gen II V8, there is a screen inside the upper radiator hose where it tees off to the DCCV. This screen could clog and produce the same symptoms. I don't know if this setup is the same for the V6.
 
If either the heater cores or the DCCV were clogged (or if the DCCV valves are stuck closed), the heater hoses will be cold.

On the gen II V8, there is a screen inside the upper radiator hose where it tees off to the DCCV. This screen could clog and produce the same symptoms. I don't know if this setup is the same for the V6.

Sounds plausible.. :)
 
If either the heater cores or the DCCV were clogged (or if the DCCV valves are stuck closed), the heater hoses will be cold.

On the gen II V8, there is a screen inside the upper radiator hose where it tees off to the DCCV. This screen could clog and produce the same symptoms. I don't know if this setup is the same for the V6.

I changed the upper radiator hose which has the tee. This may sound like a dumb question but isn't the coolant that comes out of the bleeder valve at the degas bottle coming from the heater core? And if so the coolant is hot.
 
I changed the upper radiator hose which has the tee. This may sound like a dumb question but isn't the coolant that comes out of the bleeder valve at the degas bottle coming from the heater core? And if so the coolant is hot.

There are three hoses to the heater core, two in and out out. The two in are for the left and right sides. The one that is out is from the output of both the left and right side. For the heater to work, water has to circulate. If the DCCV valves are closed (or clogged) water can't circulate. It can still backfeed from the return line into the bleeder, but in that case coolant only moves while the bleeder is open, and then only a little.
 
Dccv

did you take the top off the DCCV to clean out the piston area? You must take off the top, the pistons get crap in the piston sleeves which jamb the pistons from moving up or down.
 
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