Car wont start just makes a click

ramairmustang

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Okay I went out to leave today and turned the key. It cranked for about 1 second then just stopped cranking. So I tried again. It will click one time "sounds like the starter is kicking in" then when I release it it will click one time "sounds like the strater is kicking out". Any idea's?
 
Well.... No. Although I was going to before checking voltage of the battery and I thought it was good enough to start it at 11.6volts. I've started it before when it was down to 10.8volts this is according to my cig lighter volt meter. I dont really like jumping cars unless absolutely essential. But I can give it a go if you think I should.
 
My 98 was doing the same thing yesterday and was showing 12.46 volts.I had it tested and it was bad.
 
Clean the battery caable ends and clamps real well. i bet your clicking turns into starting.:)
 
Difference between Volts and Amps, Amps are needed to crank the starter. Jump it and have your battery checked. Could have a dead cell and still give you good voltage.

Hope you get it going!
 
Okay. I just cleaning the termanals and cable ends. They were pretty much clean so that was easy enough. I then tried to jump the car and it was the same thing. Just Key to start position "Click" hold it there a couple seconds "no sounds at all" Release key "Click". That's it. I just had my Crankshaft Sensor replaced at the shop. Do you think that somehow the started got losened up or something?
 
Okay. I just cleaning the termanals and cable ends. They were pretty much clean so that was easy enough. I then tried to jump the car and it was the same thing. Just Key to start position "Click" hold it there a couple seconds "no sounds at all" Release key "Click". That's it. I just had my Crankshaft Sensor replaced at the shop. Do you think that somehow the started got losened up or something?

How long did you let the car charge before you tried to start it?

Let it sit for 5min charging and try again...

If still no start..... Could be multiple things. If your getting a click from the starter then your getting power to it.

Try hitting the starter housing somewhat firm with a hammer, not the electronics but the housing. Not hard enough to crack the housing, see if you can free up the starter internals. Still doesn't work, remove your starter and take it and your battery in to have it tested.
 
I had that same problem. It ended up being the battery terminal cable ends needed to be tighter.
 
Sounds kinda like the starter solenoid, but it is on the starter so you'd have to change the whole starter! Good luck with it!!!
 
Load test the battery. If you dont have access to a load tester and dont wanna bring the battery to a place that can test it then hook a real voltage tester to the battery. If it reads below 12 volts its prolly dead. Have someone try and crank it and see if the voltage drops below 10. If so then the battery is dead.


When you jumped it I hope you let the other car charge yours for at least 5 minutes. Good isea to have the other car at 1200-1500 RPM depending on its charging abilities.
 
A lead acid battery at 12.4 volts is discharged. Full charge is 12.85 volts. Most all cars need a good battery to start and energize the alternator. Electronic ign. needs good power as well. A battery below 12 volts is considered dead. A new battery needs to be charged with a constant current charger. The initial charge is the most important. The first charge will determine what the memory is. If you use a constant voltage charger (automatic) initially, what ever the charge is, is all that it will ever be. Example, 80% first charge, the battery thinks that is 100%. Thus poor longevity and performance. Once a battery is in question, replace it. Each time a discharge takes place, it shortens the life. Hope that helps.
 
Wut? My battery is at 12.4 volts right now. I can turn on the lights, start the nav system and let the air ride lift the car THEN start it with no problem.

Also, and I am no battery guru, but when did lead acid get a "memory" like a NiCad or NiMh? Lead acid is a different beast from my understanding. Also on an "initial charge" that happened long before the consumer ever got their hands on it and some places kick them with regular old car chargers every now and then.

So much weird battery info going around its hard to know whats true and whats not true. Like Gel Cells. I bought them back in the day cause supposedly they could be completly discharged and still be ok for a full charge. BS. I never had one last six months after it was discharged even once.

Wish Lipo or LiFe was more stable cause then we could see some excellent capacity in our cars electrical. But between heat and the fact an alt cant read each cell that kinda rules them out.
 
Check to see if your connections are good at the starter solenoid. I had a loose wire and it pretty much did the same thing.
 

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