Barney not running again

I really haven't had time to piss with it much except on my 30 min lunch. Someone told me at work that if the battery is poor this would have something to do with it. I had to jump it today but once it started it idled fine as soon as I started to drive it it stalled.
 
were you saying that more than one of your cars was doing this? Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail yet? If it is good, I'm wondering if you have some bad gas or water in the tank. Especially if several of your cars are doing it and you get gas at the same place.
 
try changing the battery and check the voltage output of the alternator. if you have low voltage it causes the computer fits and you a big headach. like jeb said put some can of heat or sea foam in the tank can't hurt except the pocket book. hope this helps . jds
 
It could be bad gas. 1 of my other cars jut had a coolant hose that was broke. So no fuel problems at all with that car. But the mark is still sitting here at work. There is a vacuum hose that is busted but I wouldn't think it would be that bad to stall the car. Maybe I'll go and get a battery and try that tomorrow.
 
well if it has a vac leak it could cause a stahl...especially as you accelerate cause it's going to suck more air. The vac line is an easy fix if you can get to it as well. If it is a hard vac line get a piece of rubber hose that will slip over the ends of the break. If it is a soft rubber vac line you can get little butt connectors to plug into each end of the break. Sometimes they are in the windshield washer section.
 
The vac line that was busted I did replace it. No difference at all. I wish someone lived kinda close to maybe help me with this. I'm really starting to get pissed off. I did check codes on it it came up with canister or egr valve control system not opening/operating properly. Manifold air flow sensor fault, low voltage. Also profile ignition pickup circut fault
 
Sounds like the MAF is dirty or failed. Dont touch the metal wire but you can pull the sensor out and spray it with some throttle body cleaner. Then you will need to reset the computer.


Anyway you still have an electrical problem, no? Get her jumped again and bring it to 2000 rpm and then test voltage. If its below 13.5 volts then you have a dead alt. Normally it will be above 14 but even a good alt trying to charge a dead battery (dead cell) will drop to just under 14 volts. If its making above that and there is less then a 10% drop between testing at the + on the alt versus the + on the battery then it is more then likely the battery.
Lead cell batteries cant handle a deep discharge at all. You MAY be able to bring them back after dropping below 10 volts a couple times but any more then that and the batteries never hold a good charge again. I really want to buy a gel cell for mine but too many other things like repairs and taxes are hitting me now so it will be a couple months before I can drop $200 on a Optima blue or yellow.
 
Im no mechanic by any means. When I take the maf sensor out and clean it how do u reset the computer? As of now the battery is somewhat good. I was just pissing with it a little. Its still at my work not going anywhere.
 
Just dissconect the positve battery lead and let it sit for 30 minutes. Now some may have a fit over this but you can also take off the positive battery cable and then tap it against the negative terminal. What you are doing is discharging the caps in the computer so its learned habbits in the volitile memory get forgotten.

Now how did you fix the vac leak? Make sure the hose you used is not colapsing when the engine is running. If it collapses then whatever it feeds has no vac and that can cause issues. What line was bad?

Also when was the last time you replaced or cleaned the IAC?
 
Just put a peice of rubber hose over it. I'm not even sure what the hose is. There are 3/4 together and 1 of them was cracked. Of course that didn't fix the problem. I did not fix the iac yet. I know yesterday when I had to jump the car it started and idled just like it normally does. As soon as I started to drive it it started it's puttering again and then stalled.
 
The vac line that was busted I did replace it. No difference at all. I wish someone lived kinda close to maybe help me with this. I'm really starting to get pissed off. I did check codes on it it came up with canister or egr valve control system not opening/operating properly. Manifold air flow sensor fault, low voltage. Also profile ignition pickup circut fault

If you have the specific codes, post them-what year is this car? the egr was just replaced, correct? Is the MAP electrical connector hooked up? Maybe look at the terminals or where the wires go into the plug for the MAP, make sure they are not pulled out of the casing. The profile ignition pickup sounds like the module under the plastic cover on the driver side strut tower-has that been disturbed? The battery and charging system should be checked out with a digital voltmeter to see resting voltage and running/idle voltage to rule out low electrical input, which will create havoc on there cars.
I am about 100 miles from you, and two heads are better than one-if you get stuck, I will come out there to see if we can figure it out, PM me if you want to try to talk through it.
 
As of now the battery is dead. I was just at work and I tried to start it and it's dead. I'm not really sure what's going on for today but we have family in for the weekend. Maybe I'll change the battery and go from there and maybe that's the problem. It started fine for me yesterday and as soon as I went to drive it, it was puttering along and then it stalled.

The codes I came up with were 211 profile ignition pickup circut fault. 157 Manifold air flow sensor fault, low voltage. 33 Canister or egr valve control system not operating/opening properly. That's the 3 that came up.
 
Stop buying stuff and properly test the damn electrical system first!

Trying to help you out and giving you solid advice on what to test and how to test and you seem to be just ignoring it.


TEST THE FUGGIN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM!!!
 
I got Some running around to do with the family first. When we get back from that I'll run back to work and check the electrical system. The only problem is I can't keep the car running once I start it. Maybe I also just got a bad egr valve. But once I get a chance today and I'll check the electrical system. Btw what is and where is the iac.
 
I got Some running around to do with the family first. When we get back from that I'll run back to work and check the electrical system. The only problem is I can't keep the car running once I start it. Maybe I also just got a bad egr valve. But once I get a chance today and I'll check the electrical system. Btw what is and where is the iac.

It sounds like you have a OBD1 (93-94 or 95) so the IAC is on the right hand (passenger side, to the left of the throttle body (looking at the car from the passenger side, at the TB). It is a BEAR to replace on a Gen 1, but you might disconnect it to see if it'll run AFTER you see what your resting voltage is-it should be at least 12.4. When running, it should be over 14 volts, otherwise there is no point in going further until you get confirm the battery is good and the alternator is charging it. All of those codes and the problems you are having could very well be caused by an electrical system that is too weak to make the engine computer happy with the readings it is getting from sensors.

Check it out with a digital voltage meter first, then we can go from there.
 
Here's what you need to do.

1. Engine off - battery standing voltage.
With the engine off and fully charged battery, hook up the meter directly to the battery terminals(not clamp, bolt, nut, etc...). Read the meter as volts DC. Should be 12.x volts depending upon temperature and battery charge status.

2. Engine running - lo idle - no load charging voltage.
Engine running at idle, all lights, accessories and AC off. Read the meter after voltage stabilizes from starting engine. Should be more than battery standing voltage. Usually 13.x volts, maybe lo 14s.

3. Engine running - hi idle - no load charging voltage.
Engine running at 1500 RPM, all lights, accessories and AC off. Read the meter. Should be 14+ volts.

4. Engine running - full load charging voltage.
Engine running at 2000 RPM, lights on high beams, AC on MAX(blower on high). Read the meter. Should be less than high idle with no load and more than lo idle with no load.

These readings give a good indication of the charging system.
 
Battery tested right at 12. But the car does not start. I'll leave battery disconnected for 30 minutes. I did spray maf cleaner in car so I'll let thy dry and see what happens from here.
 
Barney is home. I went and bought a new battery. I'm sure the alternator is done but it's not moving until the weekend. So it's running real good now. I'm gonna test the alternaor after I eat dinner here.
 
Yeah that's the truth there boss. But you'll get a kick out of this we have an 05 navigator and on our way to loading it up for Hershey park and we had to jump the truck. I tested the volts on the battery and it read 14.2 with the truck running.
 

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