rear brake question

But understand that your wheels will roll ok without the rings, unless braking.. Because that's when the studs really get to work

Does it feel good upon acceleration too?

You might have the hubcentric rings on your wheels, I did mention that. And if you still have the problem, it's because the tolerance on the holes they drilled in your rotors suck. And then yes, rings for your rotors will fix the problem. I'm just saying you shouldn't need them if everything else is correct.
 
under acceleration it is perfect too, the only time you can feel it is when you hit that brake pedal, if you hit it light you dont feel it but if you hit it medium to hard oh wow!!!!
 
Yes you need hubcentric rings for the rear rotors on the hub. You can also get a set for the wheel while your at it.
 
he needs them for the rotors because the rotors are spaced out 5mm different on the cobra rotors vs the mark rotors... its just to get the rotors lined up with the calipers so that when the brake is applied the rotor doesnt get extra strain put on them...
 
Gilby959798 said:
he needs them for the rotors because the rotors are spaced out 5mm different on the cobra rotors vs the mark rotors... its just to get the rotors lined up with the calipers so that when the brake is applied the rotor doesnt get extra strain put on them...
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But the caliper spacers make up for that, right?

(I was only saying with hubcentric wheels, and holes drilled correctly, and wheels that are on tight, the hubcentric part of the rotor shouldn't matter)

Man, I'd like some pictures of this stuff.
 
ponies, sorry but your totally missing whats happening. This has nothing at all to do with the wheels, or rings for the wheels...

Jamie, you will need rings for the rotors from Ed. I've put Cobra rotors on my car front and rear too, and got the rings from Ed with the brackets.
 
Lol, I must be.

But it shouldn't change the fact that if the wheels are hubcentric, the non hubcentric rotor shouldn't be able to move around, due to the wheel completely preventing the studs from flexing.
 
..I fully understand what you're saying Icarus.

But, don't overlook what I'm saying either. I know the rotors are not hubcentric. I am simply saying that the wheels make up for that fact.

I'm curious about the confusion, really. And if it's mine, I need educated.
 
Rings on the wheels won't help with a vibration only on braking, Jamie said it only does it then and mentioned they are not spinning true, so other than warped rotors (which would be in the other direction anyways) or maybe damaged hubs, this would be the fix most likely.

Wheel rings are only to help keep the wheel centered when installing it. This has nothing to do with Jamie's problem from all he's said it sounds like...
 
ok this is straight from someone who knows what i am talking about, and knows exactly what needs to be done....

Jamie, I've got a pair of those rings for the rotors ,
Ever seen a rotor that wasn't hub centric ? (well you will when you take the wheels off ) There is always some play in the stud holes,even if they were drilled correctly. That's why the rotor needs to be centered via hub, and not via lugs. Same goes for the wheels. OEM stuff always fits tight, and is vibe and issue free.
 
jamie97lsc said:
ok this is straight from someone who knows what i am talking about, and knows exactly what needs to be done....

Jamie, I've got a pair of those rings for the rotors ,
Ever seen a rotor that wasn't hub centric ? (well you will when you take the wheels off ) There is always some play in the stud holes,even if they were drilled correctly. That's why the rotor needs to be centered via hub, and not via lugs. Same goes for the wheels. OEM stuff always fits tight, and is vibe and issue free.
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That is right about the rotors, but wrong about the OEM wheels being hubcentric, as they will move when slid flush on the hub (not tight, ie sloppy.) Try it out with a stock rim if you don't believe me...
Most tire balancers balance hubcentrically as it's easier, but not always correct! The good adapters for balancing lugcentrically are expensive, complex and wear out, so most shops don't use them...
 
Another way to see if a wheel is hubcentric is to put one lug or bolt on just snug and see if you can slid the wheel around a bit till it hits the hub, which on our oems and most aftermarkets wheels you can (without any rings.) If it was hubcentric it would not move in any direction, as the hub would prevent this as it would have a snug fit on it...
 
Icarus said:
Another way to see if a wheel is hubcentric is to put one lug or bolt on just snug and see if you can slid the wheel around a bit till it hits the hub, which on our oems and most aftermarkets wheels you can (without any rings.) If it was hubcentric it would not move in any direction, as the hub would prevent this as it would have a snug fit on it...
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Those saleens with the rings are PRETTY tight IIRC.. so, with what I was thinking, do you think that with a tight hubcentric wheel, and a non-warped and non-hubcentric rotor, he would still get this vibration he's talking about? I mean, after the brake is engaged, unless he's on a slippery surface and the abs is kicking in, it should be smooth braking, right? Or no? This is what I'm trying to understand, inevitably..
 
Icarus said:
Most tire balancers balance hubcentrically as it's easier, but not always correct! The good adapters for balancing lugcentrically are expensive, complex and wear out, so most shops don't use them...
Click to expand...

Icarus-

I'm trying to understand this. This is the only method I've seen. Can you elaborate on the 'adapters'? I've always seen a cone so it sits tight on the hub center when they're spinning the wheel
 
Google lugcentric wheel balancer adapters and you'll see everything from cheap ones to good ones, I'm not looking this crap up for you...
 
Jamie,

it's prob not the cheapest route, but if your wheels are unilug get the cobra hub and be done with the hub centric crap all together. I am running the cobra hubs and 11.65 rotors with a stock mark viii caliper and adapter. I have never had any issues in the past six years, other than I don't like that the mark viii pad takes a smaller bite out of the rotor. I always have a "ring" of rust on the rotor about an inch or so wide where the pads aren't deep enough to grab the bigger rotor. Doesn't effect performance just one of those little things that annoys me.
 
lsc8 said:
Jamie,

it's prob not the cheapest route, but if your wheels are unilug get the cobra hub and be done with the hub centric crap all together. I am running the cobra hubs and 11.65 rotors with a stock mark viii caliper and adapter. I have never had any issues in the past six years, other than I don't like that the mark viii pad takes a smaller bite out of the rotor. I always have a "ring" of rust on the rotor about an inch or so wide where the pads aren't deep enough to grab the bigger rotor. Doesn't effect performance just one of those little things that annoys me.
Click to expand...

this would be alright but he already has the nice wheels for the 5x4.25" bolt circle. the spacing on the Cobra hub and the mark VIII hub are like 5 mm difference or something which is why the mark VIII hub needs the spacer to go on before the rotor so that when the brakes are applied the rotor doesnt bind up... Poniesviii click the link that i put in the thread and read that it explains why you need the spacer ring for the rotor...
 
Gilby959798 said:
this would be alright but he already has the nice wheels for the 5x4.25" bolt circle. the spacing on the Cobra hub and the mark VIII hub are like 5 mm difference or something which is why the mark VIII hub needs the spacer to go on before the rotor so that when the brakes are applied the rotor doesnt bind up... Poniesviii click the link that i put in the thread and read that it explains why you need the spacer ring for the rotor...
Click to expand...

YES
 
DieselDan said:
He is refering to an up and down motion of the rotor, not a side to side.
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I was refering to the rotor being off center. If you were to look at the rotor from the wheel the rotor would appear to be moving up and down. When I said side to side, I meant like a warped rotor when looking at the rotor from its front.

Your lugnuts don't flex. Maybe the tiniest of margins, but nothing you could measure nor have it cause a problem while braking. I'd grab those hubcentric rings and if you still have a problem then obviously, you may need the rotors machined, but I doubt thats your problem. And if the wheels use a tapered lugnut, rather than a flat sided lugnut, they will hold them lug centric even if the wheels inner hub diameter was larger than the hub itself.
 
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