TCI Streetfighter 3000rpm converter installed!

I decided to read up more on performance torque converter since I was interested and look what I found:

Additional Mods
Other modifications that should be included in any high performance torque converter are furnace brazed fins, Torrington-style thrust washers and a heavy-duty sprag. Many companies sell "high-stall speed" torque converters that are just modified low torque multiplication converters. They will get the engine up into its torque band, but you loose the efficiency of the new converter designs. For instance, most race style converters have been and are still being built out of '60s Opel torque converter cores. Much more efficient race converters are being constructed with Dodge Neon cores.

A final word of caution: Any time you increase torque converter stall speed (slip), you increase heat. Make sure that you install an auxiliary transmission cooler when you go to a high performance torque converter.

Torque Converter Tips


> Select a torque converter stall speed by matching it to a rpm where your engine is producing at least 80 percent of peak torque.

> Make sure that the torque converter you are purchasing has been modified from a modern, high torque multiplication core.

> Most companies can determine the correct converter for your vehicle if you provide engine peak torque figure and rpm, vehicle weight, transmission type, rear gear ratio and tire diameter.

> Deal only with companies that warranty their products.

> Install a transmission cooler to eliminate the increased heat caused by a high performance torque converter.
 
which TCI Torque Converter did you get? My shop (Carburetor Connection) says they can get me in a TC + Tune at the same time which will add much power benefits and power and allow the PCM to use the TC to ull capabilities....but that's word of mouth (what they said) what would you suggest?

I decided to read up more on performance torque converter since I was interested and look what I found:

Additional Mods
Other modifications that should be included in any high performance torque converter are furnace brazed fins, Torrington-style thrust washers and a heavy-duty sprag. Many companies sell "high-stall speed" torque converters that are just modified low torque multiplication converters. They will get the engine up into its torque band, but you loose the efficiency of the new converter designs. For instance, most race style converters have been and are still being built out of '60s Opel torque converter cores. Much more efficient race converters are being constructed with Dodge Neon cores.

A final word of caution: Any time you increase torque converter stall speed (slip), you increase heat. Make sure that you install an auxiliary transmission cooler when you go to a high performance torque converter.

Torque Converter Tips


> Select a torque converter stall speed by matching it to a rpm where your engine is producing at least 80 percent of peak torque.

> Make sure that the torque converter you are purchasing has been modified from a modern, high torque multiplication core.

> Most companies can determine the correct converter for your vehicle if you provide engine peak torque figure and rpm, vehicle weight, transmission type, rear gear ratio and tire diameter.

> Deal only with companies that warranty their products.

> Install a transmission cooler to eliminate the increased heat caused by a high performance torque converter.


"Features: Furnace-brazed fins, needle bearings, hardened pre-ground pump hub, computer balanced"

Quoted from - http://www.bamachips.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18_4_10_62&products_id=187

A tune probably will have an effect on how the converter locks up under partial throttle but thats about it as far as I know, although line pressures will be increased so Im not sure how it can effect it to be honest. If you cant install the converter yourself its going to run you about $1K easy for the converter + install/fluids. As far as suggestions go its all your preference, I did it because these cars are dogs off the line and I race my LS quite a bit and like to be different. I have other daily drivers and other "fast" cars if something breaks or Im not satisfied so. Oh and by the way Pektel thats the cheapest place to buy the converter.
 
Oh and my peak torque is 500rpms above the stall speed so the 3K was the wise choice and my LS has a transmission cooler and two smaller "pusher" fans in front of the radiator.
 
good to know. So you dyno charted yet? Heard the TCs can chisel around .5+ seconds off the quarter mile times
 
Havent been to the dyno or track yet after the TC install, trying to get up to the track soon tho but its a 2hr drive and I dont want to spend $65 for 3 dyno pulls for maybe a 5hp gain.. The last dyno pull I did netted 251hp and 274ftlbs tho and my last track run was actually horrible cause they were hot lapping us(no cool down time) and ended up with a 14.7ish average IIRC, Ive been 14.37 un-tuned and pre-converter tho.
 
What auxiliary transmission oil cooler did you go with? Also was it hard finding room to mount it next to the original transmission oil cooler or how did that go?
 
Oh and my peak torque is 500rpms above the stall speed so the 3K was the wise choice and my LS has a transmission cooler and two smaller "pusher" fans in front of the radiator.

My bad. How difficult was it to mount the two smaller fans and how is it as far as everyday driving?
 
No trans temp guage but everything seems quite well, just shy of 1K on her now and its running Aok
 
Havent been to the dyno or track yet after the TC install, trying to get up to the track soon tho but its a 2hr drive and I dont want to spend $65 for 3 dyno pulls for maybe a 5hp gain.. The last dyno pull I did netted 251hp and 274ftlbs tho and my last track run was actually horrible cause they were hot lapping us(no cool down time) and ended up with a 14.7ish average IIRC, Ive been 14.37 un-tuned and pre-converter tho.

Wow i did 244 hp 253 torque how did u get so much torque what tune are u running?
 
hey I havent bee n on this forum in a while... i know a couple people remeber me but.. why would you do a 3000 stall converter on a car that all ready stalls from the factory at 27 or 2800?? at least mine does
 
hey I havent bee n on this forum in a while... i know a couple people remeber me but.. why would you do a 3000 stall converter on a car that all ready stalls from the factory at 27 or 2800?? at least mine does

The factory converter is 2200rpms. Might wanna get yours checked out, check it yourself, whatever. Maybe just double check what its actually flashing to, put it in 5th at 35mph or some slow speed and go full throttle, thatll let you know your stall speed, foot braking is unreliable.
 
The factory converter is 2200rpms. Might wanna get yours checked out, check it yourself, whatever. Maybe just double check what its actually flashing to, put it in 5th at 35mph or some slow speed and go full throttle, thatll let you know your stall speed, foot braking is unreliable.

flashes to 26-2800 rpm in 5th low speed..
 
So after a few more months, how's it going? I'm considering this if I'm in need of a TC but mine is my only DD.
 
Still absolutely rapes the rear tires and Im not running some Sumitumo crap.
 
I don't remember who did what here w/ the diff. Did you also go with an LSD?
 
Riiiiight. So is it 4.10 8.8 or one of the LS ratios (3.55 for the v6 manual IIRC)? I did a light browse but didn't find a post from you glaring out about your arse end. I just want to consider all aspects. Still no call from the shop yet anyway...
 
The TC has been on my list for a while. Maybe I'll be the first with TC/Tlock/gears.
 
You have to use the 8.8 pumpkin for any gears other than the stock LS gears (3.31's or 3.58's). When you use the bigger housing to fit the gears(I'm still undecided between 4.30's and 4.56's), you have to get a custom driveshaft and weld up a custom front brace.
 

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