$47 First Gen Overheating Fix/Modification

twinbopilot

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Hello to all the other LS riders out there! I'm a newbie whose been lurking on the forums for the last week or so trying to figure out the overheating problem on my '00 V6 LS that I bought for $1800 because the previous owner's mechanic said the car would need $4000 in repairs.

The overheating would only occur when you were sitting in traffic with the a/c on. If the car was moving at any decent speed, there was no overheating. When it did overheat, you could turn off the a/c and turn on the heater full blast and it would cool down immediately. It seemed clear to me that the problem was not enough airflow over the radiator. I saw that the hydraulic fan was turning, but it didn't seem like it was turning as fast as it should. Also, the fluid in the fan reservoir seemed cloudy - maybe thats why the fan wasn't turning properly?

Just to be crystal clear, the reservoir we're talking about here is on the passenger-side of the engine compartment near the strut mount. It has a fan symbol on the cap. I did siphon out what I could from the reservoir and replace it with fresh fluid, but it didn't seem to have any effect on the fan speed.

Just to show the ignorance of the mechanic, he told the previous owner that the transmission fluid went through the radiator and the radiator was leaking water into the tranny so the car would need a new radiator and tranny (thats where the $4000 came from)! I've seen this misperception about the LS posted on other auto forums so thats likely where he got it.

The mechanic must have thought that the fan fluid reservoir was for actual transmission fluid (which it is, but the fluid drives the hydraulic fan, not the tranny!). Must be why he thought there was water in the tranny. Apparently he had no clue how the system actually works.

Not wanting to spend $1000 on a new hydraulic fan system, I went down to the "Man Mall" (junkyard) and found a 16" pusher style fan for $30. "Pusher" just means it goes in FRONT of the radiator instead of behind. I have no clue what it came from, but my guess would be a Japanese car because they tend to use pusher fans more than domestics. It was fairly thin (maybe 4" max width at the motor) which would be important later. If I was the patient type, I could have ordered one from eBay for about $40. The local auto parts stores all wanted $65 and up for the same part. YMMV.

Next I bought a Hayden thermostatic fan control (P/N 3653) for $17 at Pep Boys. So with $30 for the fan and $17 for the controller - a total of $47 invested for this repair/modification. Not too shabby if it works out.

To begin the mod, I removed the black plastic radiator cover, and the smaller plastic cover in front of the hood latch mechanism. Right away I noticed lots of leaves and trash stuck in front of the radiator so I cleaned it out as best I could. I thought cleaning out the leaves alone may be enough to fix it, but it still overheated.

Next, I removed four screws from the lower fascia that allowed me to drop the under-body cover plate and get access to the front of the radiator from below. This is where I will insert the fan.

Its actually the condenser in the front, fan fluid cooler in the middle, and radiator in the back, so technically I will put the fan on the condenser, but I digress...

I noticed right away that the horns were going to have to be relocated. They were exactly in the way of where the fan needed to go. They come off easy with one bolt. I simply relocated them to another spot and used the same bolt. I did have to extend the horn wiring about a foot to accommodate the relocation.

So now to install the fan. You'll likely have to get a little creative as to how you mount the fan. I slid the fan into place from below and mounted it to a bolt sticking out on the rear of the hood latch mechanism. It was a perfect spot to secure the fan, at least on the top. Down below I used aircraft safety wire to secure the fan to the condenser.

There is a 1" thick wiring harness that runs behind the bumper. It wasn't completely necessary, but I relocated it up and it front of the hood latch so as to give the fan more clearance. Just know its easy to move if you need a little more room for the fan.

Next I installed the temp. controller behind the passenger head light. I wanted quick access in case later I needed to adjust the temp. that the fan kicks on. The temp. probe is supposed to go on the backside of the radiator but you can't get to it due to the fan shroud. I was able to pry the fan shroud back about a half an inch at the top. It was just enough to install the probe.

Now for the power source. I used the 20 amp fuse slot in the relay box right behind the passenger headlight. This way the fan is only powered when the key is in the "run" position.

Now replace the lower body cover and the two upper covers and you're set!

Now the car can sit in traffic at 100 degrees with the a/c on and never even break a sweat! The temp needle NEVER goes over halfway anymore.

You can hear the electric fan kick in if you're not moving and don't have the stereo on, but overall its pretty quiet. It even looks factory installed (at least mine does).

If the original hydraulic fan quits working entirely, I will probably have to remove it and install a puller-type electric fan to replace it. But that would be a MUCH harder job than this was. This could be done in a hour. Replacing the factory system could take an entire weekend.

There's been a lot of talk about the LS electrical system not being able to support electric fans. Ford did switch to electric fans on the LS when the seat heaters were redesigned to draw less amperage. My car doesn't have seat heaters and I've never had an electrical issue. Once again, YMMV.

I hope this post helps someone because I've certainly learned a lot in this forum.

Thanks to all who have contributed.
 
Do you have any pictures of this project? My LS overheats when sitting in traffic only. When I drive I have no problems.

Thanks.
 
it's a common-ish problem - people pouring coolant into the hydralic fan reservoir thinking it is the degas bottle (I guess because it has a fan symbol on it and they have never likely heard of a hydraulic fan before).

Explains the cloudy fluid, and why the mechanic couldn't explain the ATF in the reservoir....
 
Quik LS - You must be right about someone thinking it was the degas bottle. Lincoln could have done a better job with the markings, though, IMO.

I wonder if I should disconnect the return line on the fan fluid bottle, plug the hole, and refill fresh fluid into the bottle while I run the engine until the fluid runs clear at the return line, then reassemble? Is that an acceptable method of servicing the fluid?

I'll try to get some pictures up later. Wife is currently out driving the LS - When Momma is happy, everybody is happy. ;)
 
Great job!

Thanks for the ideas! Next time I'll go electric from the front. These hydraulic fans are junk and should never have been installed.
 
relay hookup

tell me how and what relay you used to hook up the power to the fan and switch. never done that type of work before so i need some details. thanks
 
I used the relay box located conveniently behind the pass. headlight. Took power from the 20A fuse. Power is only supplied with key in "run" position:
3987295613_2b398dffa1.jpg


Here you see how I installed the thermostatic controller using an existing bolt (I know - the blue wire looks like cr*p):
3987296557_259641204b_b.jpg


Here is the way I used an existing bolt behind the hood latch to secure the fan:
3987298663_e21c079130_b.jpg


Here's a look at the installed fan from the lower front:
3988053484_29a5ddd169_b.jpg


Here you see the relocated position of the horns. They are now mounted behind the license plat holder. I reused the single bolt in another hole when I moved them. I had to lengthen the wire harness to the horns by about a foot.
3987297189_494487702e_b.jpg


Finally, here it is all put back together:
3987295011_81da730e57_b.jpg


You could have used a smaller fan, say like a 12" or 14" and you would not have had to move the wiring harness to in front of the hood latch as seen in the above photo. I wanted maximum possible cooling so I didn't mind moving it.

And finally, a couple pics of the $1847 Lincoln LS:
3988183134_b269d56e9e_b.jpg

3988049916_474f59cd4b_b.jpg

3988049092_15c620b990_b.jpg


Now onto installing HID headlights and fog lights!
 
Great looking interior

I like that dark gray interior in your car, its in wonderful shape. My light gray seats are starting to look worn from 110K miles. All my interior holding up well, 01V6. Thanks for the pics. What temperature did you set the fan to?
 
Temp. setting for electric fan

The controller is rated from 40-230 degrees. Clockwise adjustment means higher temp. before fan comes on, counter-clockwise lower temp. I initially set it in the middle because there are no markings on it. It seemed to come on a bit too soon so I adjusted clock-wise about a 1/4" turn or less. Now the fan only comes on if the car sits for an extended period (5-10 minutes) with the engine running. The temp. needle rises to the half way mark and the fan kicks in, immediately dropping it back to a little below half, which is where it seems to like to run. It will sit there and cycle the fan on and off every 3-4 minutes or so. When you start moving again the electric fan shuts off for good, unless of course you stop again somewhere. Overall I am very satisfied with the mod.
 
I like this mod and wonder if any of the fan setups that Summit racing has would work. I would like to try a small fan to give the car some extra cooling. I may try this out in the spring....
 
I looked on Summit's website and they have a 10" pusher or puller style fan that is 2.25" thick for $55. It is part #Sum-G4901. I may try this some day and see if it works.
 
Just wanted to update the thread. The 20 amp fuse that I used to power the fan blew yesterday. Its the same fuse that powers the fuel injectors. I've decided to find another power source under the hood. Any ideas?
 
Just wanted to update the thread. The 20 amp fuse that I used to power the fan blew yesterday. Its the same fuse that powers the fuel injectors. I've decided to find another power source under the hood. Any ideas?

good man, I was gonna come in here and make some smartassedcomment regarding the picture above...(lol)

Hell I still might, or.. did I just do that by posting at all?
*shruggs*
consider yourself trolled..k thnx. my day is complete
haha
 
twinbopilot: Be careful with that phone. It's an antique.
 
It was in the car when I bought it. 911 still works so I thought I'd leave it so the wife would feel safer, even though she has a Blackberry. Cell batteries can die. At least the antique should work as long as the car has power.

She wants me to hook her Blackberry up to the car the same way the antique is installed but I'm not sure if its possible or hard it would be. The phone has its own separate mike and speaker installed in the car. It doesn't go through the audio system. I'd like to retain that part of the system while adding a cradle for the Blackberry.

Anybody done this or similar with their BB?
 
cool mod...and nice to see another green ls.

I'd maybe set the fan up to a relay instead of directly wiring it.
 
Um...its actually black but thanks. Yes, it appears a relay is the best way to go. Will install and post pics soon.
 
It was in the car when I bought it. 911 still works so I thought I'd leave it so the wife would feel safer, even though she has a Blackberry. Cell batteries can die. At least the antique should work as long as the car has power.

She wants me to hook her Blackberry up to the car the same way the antique is installed but I'm not sure if its possible or hard it would be. The phone has its own separate mike and speaker installed in the car. It doesn't go through the audio system. I'd like to retain that part of the system while adding a cradle for the Blackberry.

Anybody done this or similar with their BB?

It's a Nokia car kit. The simple way would be to replace it with a Nokia bluetooth car kit. I think that would work with a blackberry. The best car kit is the Parrot (if you get one that doesn't blank out in the heat.)

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=28476&highlight=parrot
 
Ok, here's the revised installation. Bought an 12v auto relay from Radio Shack p/n 275-226 ($6.99). Bought an in-line fuse holder p/n 270-1217 ($2.99). So a whopping $10 more invested on top of the original $47.

The parts:
4015330132_e62389850a.jpg

4014566243_a115601ebf.jpg


The relay allows me to draw 12v from an unused section of the relay box, and to have the 12v switch on and off with the ignition. The unused section is hot all the time, even with the ign. off, so I needed to connect the switch in the relay to something that is only hot with the key turned on.

All the fuses in the relay box are hot only with the key on, so thats where I connected the switch. Understand that the 20 amp fuse I connected the relay to is NOT powering the electric fan. It only powers a micro switch that opens and closes the circuit powering the fan.

I needed to add a fuse, so I added the in-line fuse between the power connection at the unused relay section and the thermostatic fan controller.

Here's what it looks like:
4015330744_4a5963eef4.jpg


I mounted the relay using an available screw on the thermostatic controller:
4015330604_a69465eed1.jpg


And here is the finished installation:
4014566695_22e993af4e.jpg


The only thing I would change is the color of the wiring to black, but the way I routed the wires you don't really see them anyway.
 
Where there's a will there's a way. You almost talked me into a 2001 EXCEPT -- will this work on a V8??
 

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