2 yellow top batteries

nortyhat

nortyhat

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hey i had talked to my local stereo shop and they said with 2 yellow tops and a possibly a black cap or something of that nature, that i wouldnt need to upgrade my alternator. i have an


eclipse avn6600 deck,
2 sets of jl audio xr 5x7 component sets,
2 eclipse headrest
2 jl audio 12w7
2 jl audio 1000/1
jl audio 300/4


and he said that since my alternator is already 110 - 130 that its enough power to run everything with 2 yellow tops and a isolater?

now should i go with that or still upgrade the alt?
 
Let me see if I can help you decide here. Your alternator needs to supply your current demands. It doesn't matter if you have one battery or ten. If you use more current than your alternator can supply, eventually, you will drain your battery(s). I would also want an alternator that can supply those demands without being maxxed out. Running it at near 100% all the time will burn it up.
 
Like he said, battery only stores energy, the alt supplies it. i would go 1 yellow top, a cap, and upgrade the alt. I have 2 12s, 4 4x6s, 2 tweets, pioneer 5700, 6 separate tvs, and my yellow top, cap, and oem alternator, handle it just fine. I still would like to eventually upgrade the cap.
 
Optima Yellow Top Automotive 12V Dual Purpose Battery with 750 Cold Cranking Amps

ok but decibels5 is stating that hes using his oem alt, so what is it causing you to get a high output alt, if its running fine. is it not giving you enought power or something. and i understand what the alt does but i guess the guy told me that the isolater would just charge the battery thats low and not having to charge both alternators at the same time it would just charge the one that is low on power? what you think?
 
I guess my question was not clear.
I wanted to know which model number yellow top??
 
Not to high-jack, but how is that AVN 6600 working for you from Eclipse. Did you do the install yourself or a shop? If the shop did, what was the price for the install?
 
why do you need 2 batteries because multiple batteries only help you if you planning on running your system with the car not running. Upgrade you Alt. and get a cap or two.
 
Alrighty then, is a high output alternator available? If so, is this a dealer available item or only from an aftermarket specialist?
 
hey decibels5 what is all that connected to the battery my bad im new to this. and how did you mount the yellow top. and for the question about why dont i upgrade my alt. because for one its hard to find one i called ohio gen and they wanted 450 for one, and that one is 180 amp and i told the audio shop and he said thats good but mines 110 so it should hold. and the avn 6600 is not yet installed so, i wouldnt know yet im in iraq but i bought all my equipment. they said it will cost me 230 dollars to install i got the kit from lskoncepts.
 
Thats just my amp in the way, bad pic. sorry. I just put the yellow top in the place of the oem battery. The only thing connected to my battery is the capacitor, should have took a better pic for you all. Its pretty much like this. Your battery has + and -, then a capacitor has + and -, and then your amp has a + and -. amp to cap, cap to battery. and of course your battery to your car. The only thing I do different is, I run my ground from my amp to the chasis of the car. This supplies a better ground then running it through the cap and battery and then the chassis. Better for your amp and battery.
 
ok decibels5 so your saying your running more wattage then me and you still use your oem alternator, have 1 yellow top, and use a cap and you have no problems with your lights dimming or anything etc....
 
nortyhat said:
hey decibels5 what is all that connected to the battery my bad im new to this. and how did you mount the yellow top. and for the question about why dont i upgrade my alt. because for one its hard to find one i called ohio gen and they wanted 450 for one, and that one is 180 amp and i told the audio shop and he said thats good but mines 110 so it should hold. and the avn 6600 is not yet installed so, i wouldnt know yet im in iraq but i bought all my equipment. they said it will cost me 230 dollars to install i got the kit from lskoncepts.
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Something important to keep in mind. Yes you're running at 110amps, but keep in mind the amount of electronic accessories your car also runs. Those seat heaters... the SUCK down the amps... it all adds up man. I'd never run over 1000W RMS on a factory alt. Doesn't matter how many caps or batteries you're runing; it will help prevent against spikes, but then it just keeps it on a slow and steady drain. That will have you hunting a new alt.

Best reason to run two yellow tops is really very simple; it more for keeping the stereo going when the car isn't running. If you're going to run crazy watts in your stereo, be ready to pay for the additional parts to support it. Besides... you can afford it; two months hostile fire pay will cover your new alternator! :headbang:
 
You really shouldn't need 2 batteries, also, you might want to think about switching to one amp, 2 JL1000/1's are kinda pointless, you can get like an earthquake d3 and do a little better for a little less on the wallet, unless you are trying to stay all JL. Either way you have a raw system. Just get like a 5 farad cap from ebay and get a yellowtop.

Let me see if I can help you decide here. Your alternator needs to supply your current demands. It doesn't matter if you have one battery or ten. If you use more current than your alternator can supply, eventually, you will drain your battery(s). I would also want an alternator that can supply those demands without being maxxed out. Running it at near 100% all the time will burn it up.
Click to expand...

If he is running with an iterator, and using 2 exact same batteries, his load won't drain on those optima's, as long as they are rated the same. I used to run 2 batteries with 2 HCCA amps sucking massive amounts of power in my old :q:q:q:qcar with a stock alternator.
 
Replace the alternator. I am running three Rockford 5002's and easily exceeded the capacity of the factory alternator. Motor City reman is where I got mine. Google it for the website and number. Talk to Sam he was very helpful. Cost was $269 shipped.

I am also running two yellow top optimas. A fast recharge rate will assist the alternator but not change max current output of your 110 amp alternator. Also note that output is 110 amps at approx. 3k rpms. At idle it is almost half of that.
 
nortyhat said:
ok decibels5 so your saying your running more wattage then me and you still use your oem alternator, have 1 yellow top, and use a cap and you have no problems with your lights dimming or anything etc....
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Thats correct, no problem. Keep in mind your amp(s) are going to pull more power then mine. Thats if you go with what you listed. I would definately get an upgraded alt if I was going to run 2 jl 1000s. A little much for me. My tvs pull alot of power, but I believe my one amp pulls more power than my tvs. 1 good battery, 1 good cap, and 1 good alternator, will meet pretty much all of your needs. I believe a yellow top cost between 160 and 200 depending on where you get it from. For a bill more you can get your upgraded alt. If your tight on money, go with a yellow top and a good capacitor. if not fu<k it. get two batteries and an alt.
 
ok i see what you was talking about nrls2000 i searched it and thats a pretty good price but is it a good alt? and how many real amps are you getting out of that alt. also that sounds better then 450 dollars from ohio gen but i wonder if its good quality. and what things you needed to change with your order with motor city or can i just order it straight or talk to the guy?
 
The alternator as priced is rated at 180 amps. I wish I could be more specific but this is what I know:
At just over 1/2 volume my vehicle and system draws no more than 107 amps (depending on the acoustical energy generated)

The point at which the aftermarket alternator begins to spin up the output voltage never drops below 13.5 volts at 1/2 volume. When I increase volume the voltage begins to drop (voltage drops as current supply drops) but no less than 12.6 volts. As engine rpms increase past 1500 rpms voltage increases to 14.2 volts.

I did have to drop pulley size on the alternator they shipped me as the factory idle speed was not fast enough to spin up the alternator. They have promised me that they could tweak the alternator to compensate. As of yet I have not sent it in. Instead I just bumped up the idle speed with the xcal2. (just bumped it up 400 rpms)

As to the quality, it has rock solid output so far (2 months out). As a tech I feel confident with their techs.
I ordered mine over the phone. If you call just mention my car and swapping pulleys and Sam probably will remember.
 
I'm dealing with h-o-alternators.com for a high output alternator for my SVT Focus, (yeah it's pricey, so I'd bet it'll be a good alternator, I'm not touching an uprated alternator new or rebuilt for $280 bucks, my stock SVT Focus's costs that much.....) anyway, I will try to see if they have an update for the Lincoln. The site says 2000-02 and 2003-2004. It leads me to believe there's a significant difference from '05 up.....?
 
How did you mount it to the car.
Did you have to get the little 'wings' for the base to get the clamping foot to grab on?
 
ok i ordered it already i guess i have to call them and let them know right away and also how much did it cost you to put it on and how long did it take?
 
nrls2000 said:
The alternator as priced is rated at 180 amps. I wish I could be more specific but this is what I know:
At just over 1/2 volume my vehicle and system draws no more than 107 amps (depending on the acoustical energy generated)

The point at which the aftermarket alternator begins to spin up the output voltage never drops below 13.5 volts at 1/2 volume. When I increase volume the voltage begins to drop (voltage drops as current supply drops) but no less than 12.6 volts. As engine rpms increase past 1500 rpms voltage increases to 14.2 volts.

I did have to drop pulley size on the alternator they shipped me as the factory idle speed was not fast enough to spin up the alternator. They have promised me that they could tweak the alternator to compensate. As of yet I have not sent it in. Instead I just bumped up the idle speed with the xcal2. (just bumped it up 400 rpms)

As to the quality, it has rock solid output so far (2 months out). As a tech I feel confident with their techs.
I ordered mine over the phone. If you call just mention my car and swapping pulleys and Sam probably will remember.
Click to expand...


Good info man. It's nice to see someone that know's what they are talking about and not just going by the "well my lights don't flash/dim that much... I've got a 235 farad cap:D and two optima's". People don't seem to get that the cap and optima's help level out the spikes, they don't compensate for high current draw. So naturally you won't see the lights dimming with the bass because the draw is leveled out; that doesn't mean you arn't exceeding the capacity of your alternator though.

One thing for all to keep in mind is that if your alternator is up to the task and you have a good cap, you don't need 1 or 30 yellow top batteries. The advantage those deep cycle batteries give you is in being able to run your system without the engine running for an extended time and not causing damage to your battery (standard starting batteries can not handle being discharged extensively), Not increasing your electrical capacity.
 
nrls2000 said:
The alternator as priced is rated at 180 amps. I wish I could be more specific but this is what I know:
At just over 1/2 volume my vehicle and system draws no more than 107 amps (depending on the acoustical energy generated)

The point at which the aftermarket alternator begins to spin up the output voltage never drops below 13.5 volts at 1/2 volume. When I increase volume the voltage begins to drop (voltage drops as current supply drops) but no less than 12.6 volts. As engine rpms increase past 1500 rpms voltage increases to 14.2 volts.

I did have to drop pulley size on the alternator they shipped me as the factory idle speed was not fast enough to spin up the alternator. They have promised me that they could tweak the alternator to compensate. As of yet I have not sent it in. Instead I just bumped up the idle speed with the xcal2. (just bumped it up 400 rpms)

As to the quality, it has rock solid output so far (2 months out). As a tech I feel confident with their techs.
I ordered mine over the phone. If you call just mention my car and swapping pulleys and Sam probably will remember.
Click to expand...

for that price i would say it was a fatctory alternator just speed wound. I myself bought the ohio gen one. I have had it for like 1 1/2 years now and still going strong!
 
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