Break pads and rotors.

Iwantmymarkback

Iwantmymarkback

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I did do a search for this, but my question is stil lleft un answered.


What is the best combination for rotors/brake pads on a Mark VIII?

Thanks.

-Rick
 
Search for r1concepts on this forum, great price, great product... I just got done installing mine today on all 4 wheels.
 
I just ordered mine through my friends dealership, I did all 4 rotors with new pads for around $130
 
I am running r1 conecpts d\s rotors and high performance pads. I have had them for over 6 months and still no complaints. best brakes ive ever had.
 
I like the ceramic pads personally with cross drilled rotors. Not sure if Brembro makes a 4 piston caliper for the mark or not?

can say the ceramic pads are worth the money and the cross drilled rotors on back really help those undersized grandma brakes and rotor on the rear of the marks. :D

Just about anything better than stock :p
 
Stock rotors and good street pads are more than adequate. The fancy stuff looks neato, but doesn't stop any better.
 
Wrong Again Dr Paul

For a guy who has to have real braided hose not the fake stuff, but can settle on stock brakes ???? :confused: :confused: :confused:

which leads me to my second point, DO NOT DO CRACK, AS LT SAID....:D :D

Dont listen to him, cross drilled rotors disperse heat better and will prevent warping allot better than stock. Less heat better performance...

Second the ceramic pads costs close to the same as ford stock pads, i paid 70 for mine, Bendix, could have got pepboys brand ceramic for $40. They create less dust, less noise, and less heat, which helps you stop better. :cool: Hey 2 feet could be the difference between a smokey stop or a rearend collision. :p

I think Dr Phil just likes to argue with people....amazing you never seem to suprise me Dr Phil :( :( :( :(
 
In my opinion, pretty much any rotor from a parts store will do. I dont believe in drilled/slotted rotors unless you are racing on a roadcourse/ or participating in a high speed pursuit. When my go I plan on getting new rotors and semi-metallic pads from carquest. A co-worker of mine had the semi-metallic pads last 70k miles on his vehicle.
 
I have found the best combo for our cars is running the premium TRW Rotors along with Ceramic pads. The reason for this is the cross section and mass of these rotors is much more substantial (sic heat absorbing capable) than the cheaper rotors I could buy. The Ceramics pads also do a good job of braking whilst keeping brake dust to a minimum (my type of driving). The single most important of all is to do the proper pad seating so as to avoid the shutters. Outside of all out racing, I have seen little performance benefit to the pricey slotted and drilled rotors. The asthetics however have to count for something so to each his own -- same goes for the multi piston calipers etc.
 
Well, for reference here is what I am running.

Stock KVR Front rotors
Cobra KVR Rear rotors drilled for my bolt pattern. (Using Fast Ed's rear caliper relocation bracket)
EBC Green Stuff front/rear pads.
Stock calipers.
Classic Tube braided stainless hoses.
Dot 4 brake fluid.

I'd be willing to put the stopping ability of my car up against any other car on this forum using stock diameter front rotors.

Sure the pads are dusty, but my wheels are powderoated anthrecite metallic, so it doesn't show. I'm able to ignore the brake squeel when it happens (rarely) too.
 
I ran Hawk HP + pads on stock rotors, worked very well for me. Lots of brake dust, however.
 
I've said it once I've said it a thousand times, my R-1's and
PFC pads work immensely better than any stock set up and I have plenty of experiance with both to know so you or anyone else WILL NOT convince me otherwise so quit trying already.
 
Dern Humpus said:
In my opinion, pretty much any rotor from a parts store will do. I dont believe in drilled/slotted rotors unless you are racing on a roadcourse/ or participating in a high speed pursuit. When my go I plan on getting new rotors and semi-metallic pads from carquest. A co-worker of mine had the semi-metallic pads last 70k miles on his vehicle.
Click to expand...

WHAT..cheap autozone rotors or discounts are foreign steel vrs USA. second balancing issues can come into play. the drilled slotted rotors are only for back since they are quite small rotors and the way I drive i warp them. sure you wont stop shorter when cold, but if you accelerate and brake like i do, they definetely stop better when rotors are hot.

Just opinions anyway, JC1994 is right, the r1's are sweet too. carbon metalic or ceramic, just for dust and quiet braking, no performance gain...

BUT GHETTO $30 ROTORS ARE NOT SAME AS $70 USA ROTORS OR CROSSDRILLED ROTORS EITHER. TRUE IS IT WORTH $40 A ROTOR FOR CROSS DRILLED OVER THE BENDIX USA ONES, PROBABLY NOT UNLESS YOU DRIVE LIKE I DO, A MANIAC 24/7, BUT UNDER CONTROL ENOUGH....:D :D
 
For a guy who has to have real braided hose not the fake stuff, but can settle on stock brakes ????
Click to expand...

What does my braided hose have to do with the stopping performance of a relatively slow streetcar?


For being a retired mechanic, you don't know much about high performance.

Cross-drilled rotors don't stop better than blanks, they have less material and heat absorption/dispersion capacity, and far more prone to crack. Drilling creates a stress riser in the rotor, and thus, you get cracking. Certain manufacturers use rotors with holes in them, but they are CAST that way. (e.g. Porsche)

I have an SCCA ITE class racecar, and have spent enough time at the track to know that people who know, use blanks. You can argue your nonsense logic all you want, but you're wrong. This isn't just my opinion, it is the opinion of people (not you) who have some understanding of modern performance brake applications.

Read, and learn. This is the legendary discussion of this very topic on corner carvers.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2002&highlight=cross+drilled+rotors



...and so I will reiterate. Good stock-type rotors, and decent street pads will be the best combination.

Paul.
 
evillally said:
If you swap to 17" wheels and re-drill the bolt pattern, they are...
Click to expand...

not exactly, I believe there's an issue with the brake line, having to shave a piece off to get it to bolt to the caliper. I think the rear you need a bracket to raise the caliper
 
Cobra KVR Rear rotors drilled for my bolt pattern. (Using Fast Ed's rear caliper relocation bracket)[/QUOTE]

did the E-brake cable fit? I heard it was too short?
 
A steel braided hose will not expand under load like a rubber hose, giving you better stopping power.
As far as best what do you want ?racing ,performance in wet, dry, hot ,cold conditions or just an all around street driving-the stock set up is probaly the best all around perfoming normal driving brakes.
 
Jibit said:
not exactly, I believe there's an issue with the brake line, having to shave a piece off to get it to bolt to the caliper. I think the rear you need a bracket to raise the caliper
Click to expand...

Passenger side only. The rear problem can be solved with an $80 adapter...
 
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