a/c will only blow out defrost or floor vents. help newbie here

johnfalcon

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I have a 2006 ls v8. a/c works great on both passenger and drivers side. cold air will blow out of defrost vents or floor vents or both at the same time. but I cannot get the air to come out of the dash vents. i did the datc tests and got two codes. 1263 and 2798. if anyone can help on what should be my next move on fixing this probelm i would be thankful.
 
B1263 is "Panel Door Actuator Circuit Failure " This certainly explains why you can't get air out of the dash vents.
If you want to further test, then: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm#PS2-C
If you want to jump straight to replacing the part that has almost certainly failed, then: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc1026.htm~gen~ref.htm
(Note that you shouldn't have to actually remove the dash to do this.)

B2798 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground " Most likely this is just a stored code for you, or you wouldn't be getting cold air out. My 04 has this code set almost every time I scan it. The DCCV will fail eventually, but it may take years for that to happen. As long as it's working okay, I'd wait for it to actually fail.
 
ive looked up this part. the blow apart pic idicates there are four different locations for this part. can you help me locate the right one?
 
B1263 is "Panel Door Actuator Circuit Failure " This certainly explains why you can't get air out of the dash vents.
If you want to further test, then: 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
If you want to jump straight to replacing the part that has almost certainly failed, then: 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
(Note that you shouldn't have to actually remove the dash to do this.)

B2798 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground " Most likely this is just a stored code for you, or you wouldn't be getting cold air out. My 04 has this code set almost every time I scan it. The DCCV will fail eventually, but it may take years for that to happen. As long as it's working okay, I'd wait for it to actually fail.
Hi joegr,

I have the b1263 code as well and also seem to have a parasitic drain on my battery , so you think there could be a correlation? I only tie this to my battery drain because it’s the only “circuit failure” code that I have. Also do you know where this is located ?

Trying to keep this LS alive. thanks for the help !
 
No, I doubt that it has anything to do with your battery drain. If you are able to control where the air comes out correctly, then you can ignore the code. The whole dash has to come out to get to that actuator.
 
No, I doubt that it has anything to do with your battery drain. If you are able to control where the air comes out correctly, then you can ignore the code. The whole dash has to come out to get to that actuator.
Yeah I still have complete control over where the air comes from., I won’t bother with putting in the hours to replace it if it’s unlikely to be the root cause of the drain.
Do you know any typical causes for a parasitic drain on the LS?

I have a couple of codes , need to replace O2 sensors I get a code for that , the b1263 obviously and a b1265 (I’m ignoring this because it’s an error). I had a radio and subwoofer put in years ago, I ripped the sub out and removed the amplifier in an effort to kill the drain.

Only other issue with the car ( and something I’ve been living with for 4+ years) is that the car appears to think the doors are open randomly. Sometimes when the car is not even running. (Had to pull interior light fuse). I believe this to be the driver door actuator. Door light flickers when going over bumps sometimes , seems to trigger when it’s raining. This causes a constant locking noise when driving. Door actuator failure = potential drain?
 
...Only other issue with the car ( and something I’ve been living with for 4+ years) is that the car appears to think the doors are open randomly. Sometimes when the car is not even running. (Had to pull interior light fuse). I believe this to be the driver door actuator. Door light flickers when going over bumps sometimes , seems to trigger when it’s raining. This causes a constant locking noise when driving. Door actuator failure = potential drain?

Yep, that's it. The random door ajar indication keeps the car from sleeping, causing the drain.
 
Only other issue with the car ( and something I’ve been living with for 4+ years) is that the car appears to think the doors are open randomly. Sometimes when the car is not even running. (Had to pull interior light fuse). I believe this to be the driver door actuator. Door light flickers when going over bumps sometimes , seems to trigger when it’s raining. This causes a constant locking noise when driving. Door actuator failure = potential drain?

IIRC... the door ajar sensor and dome light trigger is in the door latch.

I would check to see if the hinges on your drivers door are worn. Do this by opening the door about 6" and lift up on the door. If you get a bunch of verticle movement, (slop), this may be part of the problem.

The wear of the hinges causes the door to not latch on the striker correctly. Over time this could cause wear on the latch assembly... causing your door ajar and dome light issues.

You could try adjusting the striker to compensate for the hinge wear... but if the hinges are severely worn it may not help.
 
It could be worn hinges, but it is usually oxidized contacts on the switch inside the door latch / lock actuator. Maybe they didn't all get plated as well as they should have.
 

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