bad thermostat?

Yeah I think you might be right right there but wow only 1 mile and heated that much ? My needle only startS to fluctuate slightly after like 50 to 80 miles of driving and what kind of aluminum radiator did you put in and I have no heat right now AC works ice cold though
No heat generally means that your heater core is full of air and coolant doesn't get to it, meaning there is alot of air in the system. see here for a good write up with pics on coolant burp procedure:

https://www.reischeperformance.com/refill.html

let us know what your find.
 
No heat generally means that your heater core is full of air and coolant doesn't get to it, meaning there is alot of air in the system. see here for a good write up with pics on coolant burp procedure:

Ford 4.6L DOHC Coolant Refill & Burp Procedure by Reische Performance Products

let us know what your find.

Yes but will the coolant still flow into the car then into to heater core even if the heater isn't on that's what we need to know or bypass the heater core and connect the hoses together before they go into the car
 
Yes but will the coolant still flow into the car then into to heater core even if the heater isn't on that's what we need to know or bypass the heater core and connect the hoses together before they go into the car
When heater is on, its the fan blowing thru it bringing hot air into the cabin. the heater core should always have coolant in it thats why u need to turn on the heater to max when doing the coolant burp procedure to make sure it gets ALL of the air out of the entire system.
 
When heater is on, its the fan blowing thru it bringing hot air into the cabin. the heater core should always have coolant in it thats why u need to turn on the heater to max when doing the coolant burp procedure to make sure it gets ALL of the air out of the entire system.
So even if my heat isn’t coming out when doing the burp procedure I should still have the climate on 90 degrees turned on ?
 
So even if my heat isn’t coming out when doing the burp procedure I should still have the climate on 90 degrees turned on ?
So even if my heat isn’t coming out when doing the burp procedure I should still have the climate on 90 degrees turned on ?
the idea of the burp procedure is to get all of the air out of your system...including your heater core. you said that your heater is not blowing hot,
So even if my heat isn’t coming out when doing the burp procedure I should still have the climate on 90 degrees turned on ?
heat will come out from the burp procedure if you turn your heater on max. the whole idea of the burp procedure is to get all the air out of your system and that includes your heater core since its all plumbed into the same system.
 
Yeah I think you might be right right there but wow only 1 mile and heated that much ? My needle only startS to fluctuate slightly after like 50 to 80 miles of driving and what kind of aluminum radiator did you put in and I have no heat right now AC works ice cold though
I bought the rad off Ebay. Don't remember the name. I have one hell of a hill to drive up to get to the road so that got it hot pretty quick. I'm not sure about what popstar is saying about the need for turning on the hot air to burp. If these cars have a heater core flow control valve, that would be correct but the way the temp control works, it's all ways blending hot with cold from the variable 2 blend doors to match your temp settings. So the coolant is all ways flowing threw the heater core no matter what setting you have on the auto climate control or even if its off entirely. I would be wrong in it being a constant flow if there is a flow control valve, I'm not aware of one at this point. If you have temp up on your temp gauge and the blend door arm moves the grey AC blend door down below to the left of your glove box, A no heat in this case means your upper blend door arm is broken. The black arm stems snap off like dry twigs. See the pictures. And that leave the upper heater core air door shut = no air can get threw the heater core. Plenty of cold, but ZERO hot, not even slightly warm will come threw that shut upper door.
Part 2 Ultimate blend door repair FINALY 8/22/20
 
I bought the rad off Ebay. Don't remember the name. I have one hell of a hill to drive up to get to the road so that got it hot pretty quick. I'm not sure about what popstar is saying about the need for turning on the hot air to burp. If these cars have a heater core flow control valve, that would be correct but the way the temp control works, it's all ways blending hot with cold from the variable 2 blend doors to match your temp settings. So the coolant is all ways flowing threw the heater core no matter what setting you have on the auto climate control or even if its off entirely. I would be wrong in it being a constant flow if there is a flow control valve, I'm not aware of one at this point. If you have temp up on your temp gauge and the blend door arm moves the grey AC blend door down below to the left of your glove box, A no heat in this case means your upper blend door arm is broken. The black arm stems snap off like dry twigs. See the pictures. And that leave the upper heater core air door shut = no air can get threw the heater core. Plenty of cold, but ZERO hot, not even slightly warm will come threw that shut upper door.
Part 2 Ultimate blend door repair FINALY 8/22/20
I see that must be my problem I get plenty cold air but not even slightest bit of warm air when putting the setting up higher degrees up till 90 and nothing still cold ...
 
Just temp your heater core pipes with the car up to temp. I think the top one should be near the 170F area and the bottom a bit cooler. My bottom was about 158F so I did a garden hose back flush at low pressure and reversed the flow from out to in several times. I got some stuff out and the flow looked a little better going into the bucket once I was done but still no heat. So it came to getting the dash pulled back a few inches. PITA but now everything works like new.
 
Just temp your heater core pipes with the car up to temp. I think the top one should be near the 170F area and the bottom a bit cooler. My bottom was about 158F so I did a garden hose back flush at low pressure and reversed the flow from out to in several times. I got some stuff out and the flow looked a little better going into the bucket once I was done but still no heat. So it came to getting the dash pulled back a few inches. PITA but now everything works like new.
Yea I think it’s gona be my blend door ...along with heater core needing to be flushed smh don’t know when I’ll get around to that I still drive the car daily and very very long distances
 
I went through the air bubbles in my old 94 Mark about 6 years ago. I went to burp the system, and the cap on the crossover pipe was stuck and would not come off even after heating it up. I eventually got the air (or most of it) out by jacking the car up and repeatedly burping through the coolant reservoir.. not fun and it took all day!
 

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