abs pulled from yard

smegun

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pulled another abs pump from my year make and model and i got forscan and supposedly backed up the profile but im worried that i dont have enough of a backup if i use forscan i can see where there is the button to load directly from motocraft will that profile be enough to change the serials in the unit and get the abs up and running without giving me a light ..that is assuming that i have a good unit like i have the profile for my vin and the files are unzipped in a directory
can i just pick that file to load ?
 
pulled another abs pump from my year make and model and i got forscan and supposedly backed up the profile but im worried that i dont have enough of a backup if i use forscan i can see where there is the button to load directly from motocraft will that profile be enough to change the serials in the unit and get the abs up and running without giving me a light ..that is assuming that i have a good unit like i have the profile for my vin and the files are unzipped in a directory
can i just pick that file to load ?
Why did you replace the original ABS?
 
doesnt matter what i do got spongy brakes no errors cant access bleed function replaced master and booster still same prob
 
havent replaced it yet i have one ready to replace ive been looking for a shortcut to bleed the abs unit but forscan wont bleed gen 1 as far as im told by moderators ...wonder if anyone has used torqe or similar ap and got there gen 1 bled... i need to make sure im ready to replace the unit as being properly backed up (asbuilt data) although motocraft site is promising since you can down load the modules for your vin.... transfer vin also is important but i dont see the option yet or understand what or where it is contained in the module or string ... saw your post for your new adapter j234 ?? hows that working? i saw a ford guy on you tube run through ids key on key off and replace the vin on a pulled pcm but havent seen how to do that yet in forscan or even the info regarding the vin for an ABS unit just a few strings out put for asbuilt data and minor changes via cfg files for modules with gen 1 ...what is there to work with without a breakdown and options list? ... mismatches are hard to work with too regarding proprietary software flash tools file lengths and such wont just let you but wonder if anyone has been able to push the changes they want to the car with success like i dont want 1-2 tied and need to possibly correct the vin or ill have DTC errors just running diags
 
havent replaced it yet i have one ready to replace ive been looking for a shortcut to bleed the abs unit but forscan wont bleed gen 1 as far as im told by moderators ...wonder if anyone has used torqe or similar ap and got there gen 1 bled... i need to make sure im ready to replace the unit as being properly backed up (asbuilt data) although motocraft site is promising since you can down load the modules for your vin.... transfer vin also is important but i dont see the option yet or understand what or where it is contained in the module or string ... saw your post for your new adapter j234 ?? hows that working? i saw a ford guy on you tube run through ids key on key off and replace the vin on a pulled pcm but havent seen how to do that yet in forscan or even the info regarding the vin for an ABS unit just a few strings out put for asbuilt data and minor changes via cfg files for modules with gen 1 ...what is there to work with without a breakdown and options list? ... mismatches are hard to work with too regarding proprietary software flash tools file lengths and such wont just let you but wonder if anyone has been able to push the changes they want to the car with success like i dont want 1-2 tied and need to possibly correct the vin or ill have DTC errors just running diags
This will be difficult being a 1st Gen ...you will need some special tools that probably the dealer or Independent shops have...
 
The dealers in my area only charge $100 for a brake bleed. Well worth the money because it saves me time and aggravation on doing an ABS bleed. Plus it gives you the correct OEM fluid.
 
I though spongy or soft brakes where a characteristic of LSes

Nope, not at all.
They are not as touchy as many cars (kind of a Ford thing), but that [to me] makes it easier to control braking force and stop where I want to stop.
Spongy is pretty much always air in the hydraulic system somewhere.
Soft could mean a lot of different things to a lot of people.
 
I though spongy or soft brakes where a characteristic of LSes
I agree with Joegr ...Spongy No but softer than some makes ...I would say absolutely YES ...I've driven quite a few different LSes and they all have a softer brake than most cars
 
The brakes do work well when needed... but the pad material makes a BIG difference.

I've made some pretty surprising stops from 100mph ... with Akebonos. And that was with the stock rotors, calipers, and hoses.
 
And if you do the Jag 320mm rotor and caliper bracket front brake upgrade... they get even better.
and if you do the StR upgrade, they get worse... on the first press in a while

Here's my theory: The StR calipers mount in rubber bushings. They have a bit of droop that forces the caliper further open than the usual amount. The more bumps you hit, the more it droops. A lot of the initial brake press is used to tighten and square up the caliper rather than apply brake pressure. The second press will give that cool feeling though. It probably drags more than it should when they're not primed, but it's the complete Jag design.

I do find the pedal to be soft, even when it was stock. I do agree even I've described it different ways that aren't necessarily accurate because it's hard to review a mechanical system though my toes. It always feels awful when stopped because there's no braking feedback from deceleration, but once on the road, it feels pretty good. The pedal feels better than my dad's 03 Taurus, but not as firm as my 97 Taurus was. My 03 A4 had good brakes but the pedal was entirely numb.

Pads absolutely change things. I haven't made it to my second StR set yet, but the Autozone Gold ceramics in my Taurus had more bite than the mid-range semi-metallics I had before (and had frequent heat problems)
 
I though spongy or soft brakes where a characteristic of LSes

Some people confuse soft or spongy brakes... with brakes that aren't functioning properly.

A caliper piston can stick or freeze... requiring excess pedal pressure.

The rear caliper pistons "ratchet" inside the caliper... to compensate for pad wear, (for the parking brake).

If the "ratchet" system is frozen... the pads won't make contact between the pads and rotor like they should... requiring more pedal travel for actuation.

Bad/worn caliper slides will cause/require excess pedal pressure too.

That's the simple explanation.

A brake job isn't just slapping new pads and rotors on... and calling it done. There's more to it than that.
 

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