Cooling system brand new 03 3.9 Gen 2, Overheating still

I've been monitoring my temps lately as well to evaluate how my cooling system is doing. I bought my 05 a little over a year ago and the previous owner gave me his receipts. There are some for Motorcraft parts but not for every part. It looks like he did the ones that he felt were necessary or was advised to. I'm running around 205 to 217 under load which comes back down when the load decreases. I did see 228 once several weeks ago but not lately. It seems normal to me and I certainly am not going to mess with it if it doesn't get worse. One question I do have is for those who know that their system is top notch with new components and no leaks. How often do you have to top up the system and how much? Never or after so many months for evaporation with distilled water only?
 
jerryg2112 said:
...How often do you have to top up the system and how much? Never or after so many months for evaporation with distilled water only?
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Every great once in a while, less than once a year.
 
joegr said:
Every great once in a while, less than once a year.
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That's not comforting. Just added 1/2 gallon to bring the level back up. I will have to keep monitoring closely. Thanks for the reply Joegr
 
jerryg2112 said:
That's not comforting. Just added 1/2 gallon to bring the level back up. I will have to keep monitoring closely. Thanks for the reply Joegr
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Yeah, that's a problem. I've never added that much, except when there was a leak. If it's not overheating yet, then the degas bottle is a good suspect. Of course, once you replace that, any other parts that weren't replaced will fail once the pressure is back up.
 
jerryg2112 said:
That's not comforting. Just added 1/2 gallon to bring the level back up. I will have to keep monitoring closely. Thanks for the reply Joegr
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Joe may be correct about the degas bottle. OEM lasts 6-7 years. If the previous owner replaced it with an aftermarket version... then you'll be lucky to get 1-3 years out of it.

There is another possibility or 2.

If you aren't seeing any coolant dripping anywhere... then it's most likely the large o-ring on the back of the crossover pipe. (that goes from head to head). There is also an o-ring under the goosneck pipe that bolts to the the top of the block. That gooseneck pipe is also what ties into the back of the crossover pipe.

When either, or both of these o-rings fail... the coolant drips onto the top of the block... and flows to the back of the engine and down onto the transmission and/or exhaust.

Typically the coolant boils off fast enough that you wont smell it. The only indicator is a white film on the trans or exhaust.

So you have 2 o-rings in close proximity to each other... with only the above mentioned symptoms.
 
Ant3.9LS03 said:
I'm just going off of what everyone says 190-205 (anything higher is overheating)
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That is certainly not true...I think it's safe to say that an LS is running a bit higher than what is ideal but to say the car is overheating is a bit extreme ...some BMWs run 220 at normal temperatures...and I think a couple other makes also run hotter than 195-205
 
Just becsuse the thermostat is designed to be fully open at 195, (typically), doesn't mean thats the maximum operating temp.

Most modern vehicles are designed to run hotter... to eek out the most fuel milage posssible.

The fact that most modern engines are made of aluminum now... isn't just for weight savings. Aluminum also transfers heat better than steel... which allows for better/faster convection cooling.
 
jerryg2112 said:
That's not comforting. Just added 1/2 gallon to bring the level back up. I will have to keep monitoring closely. Thanks for the reply Joegr
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After my coolant rebuild about 6 months ago ...I haven't had to add any coolant ...and that is going from freezing to 100 degree temps...you should probably check into where all that coolant is going...
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Joe may be correct about the degas bottle. OEM lasts 6-7 years. If the previous owner replaced it with an aftermarket version... then you'll be lucky to get 1-3 years out of it.

There is another possibility or 2.

If you aren't seeing any coolant dripping anywhere... then it's most likely the large o-ring on the back of the crossover pipe. (that goes from head to head). There is also an o-ring under the goosneck pipe that bolts to the the top of the block. That gooseneck pipe is also what ties into the back of the crossover pipe.

When either, or both of these o-rings fail... the coolant drips onto the top of the block... and flows to the back of the engine and down onto the transmission and/or exhaust.

Typically the coolant boils off fast enough that you wont smell it. The only indicator is a white film on the trans or exhaust.

So you have 2 o-rings in close proximity to each other... with only the above mentioned symptoms.
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He used Motorcraft parts for everything he changed and it is not likely that the original degas bottle is still there but I don't have a receipt for one. I will look closely at those areas you mentioned. Thanks for the suggestion.

AmsterDutch said:
After my coolant rebuild about 6 months ago ...I haven't had to add any coolant ...and that is going from freezing to 100 degree temps...you should probably check into where all that coolant is going...
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I have pretty much ignored the coolant level for the past year so I don't think I am losing it as rapidly as it sounds. I do agree that it is a lot though considering everyone else's replies.
 
So I went out and looked everything over best I could. Found that the radiator is leaking from the front top passenger side in the plastic. I see two different Motorcraft radiators on Rockauto. I assume that either one is ok?
 
jerryg2112 said:
So I went out and looked everything over best I could. Found that the radiator is leaking from the front top passenger side in the plastic. I see two different Motorcraft radiators on Rockauto. I assume that either one is ok?
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Should be. That's a common leak spot for the radiator. That's where the hottest coolant hits the plastic. I've had no problems with the aftermarket radiators that I put in my LSes.
It's easiest to change them out the bottom, with the front wheels on ramps.
 
joegr said:
Should be. That's a common leak spot for the radiator. That's where the hottest coolant hits the plastic. I've had no problems with the aftermarket radiators that I put in my LSes.
It's easiest to change them out the bottom, with the front wheels on ramps.
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Thanks for the tip
 
These smaller hoses I found have leaked only when driving. The hose from under the intake should be replaced with the other two at the same time. Use oem. I had mystery leaks from these. I had substituted the plastic pipe with copper as these were made new two to three times. I have placed the bleed line into the degas bottle. Simplifies bleeding. The clamps from McMaster-Carr on the hoses use belleville washer to provide constant compression like the springs clamps.

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SteveOwens said:
These smaller hoses I found have leaked only when driving. The hose from under the intake should be replaced with the other two at the same time. Use oem. I had mystery leaks from these. I had substituted the plastic pipe with copper as these were made new two to three times. I have placed the bleed line into the degas bottle. Simplifies bleeding. The clamps from McMaster-Carr on the hoses use belleville washer to provide constant compression like the springs clamps.

View attachment 828574486

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Looks like you'll be good for quite some time
 
Ant3.9LS03 said:
Looking for some suggestions
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I see you brought some LVC wisdom to the Facebook group...this is a informative thread for newbies over there but I've found unfortunately the early enthusias dont spend enough time reading and learning but instead ...they spend more time ASKING SILLY QUESTIONS ( which have been answered countless times by Joegr and 04' Sport ) nevertheless I respect that you are teaching others as you are steady learning this cross bred Jaguar/Thunderbird ...kudos my friend
 
Thank you and I appreciate all the responses as this is a sticky and none stop circulated conversation with running temps, but after this I'm concluding my car is running good and I wouldn't mind sharing the knowledge to help others with the headache they may be dealing with or atleast think they are dealing with.
 
FDR said:
Even if you take off the top radiator brackets from the support bar?



For gen 1. Gen 2 mounted it higher so I think it's easier from the top, but I have a gen 1 so haven't tried
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Yes to both. Also, I did take those top brackets off when I changed it from the bottom.
 
Finally got my new Motorcraft radiator delivery today. For some reason I didn't catch Joegr's comment about having good success with aftermarket so I had to wait longer for the radiator from Rockauto to save about $100. As you could have guessed it says it is made in China.
 
The operation temp seems to have dropped about 5 degrees on average after the new radiator. Settles in at 206 and fluctuates from there depending on load.
Had to remove from the bottom as Joegr said. It is a pita job as you can expect. One tip I have is to cover both fin area sides of the radiator with cardboard to protect it while you are fighting to get it in or you will have bent fins.
 
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