Got reverse, no got forward gears and no codes 2000 LS V8

Bill F

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Just bought the car (2000 LS V8) and it runs great, goes backwards great, just doesn't go forward. Has 174k on it. I checked the fluid this afternoon and it was only a quart low. I have an Inova scanner that is giving me no codes however.
Ideas on places to start?

thanks

Bill
 
Just bought the car (2000 LS V8) and it runs great, goes backwards great, just doesn't go forward. Has 174k on it. I checked the fluid this afternoon and it was only a quart low. I have an Inova scanner that is giving me no codes however.
Ideas on places to start?

thanks

Bill
The best thing you can do is stop using your Inova scanner and download the free version of FORSCAN for windows on your laptop...or pay $5.99 for FORSCAN LITE and download on your smartphone ...this is the first thing you should do..after you scan the LS with FORSCAN ...report back and let us know if there is any codes that showed up...if NO...it is more than likely mechanical errors...I imagine you got a great deal on the car and want to fix it without spending a boatload of money ...well this transmission has (2) different Over-Drives and is pretty complex ...I had a total rebuild done on 2002 V8 Lincoln LSE here is a little info to get you started 5R55N transmission troubleshooting help, 5R55N rebuilding tips, 5R55N technical service bulletins, and 5R55N diagnostics from TRNW
 
Thanks AmsterDutch - Thanks for the link, and I had seen several people mentioning Forscan and went looking for it last night. In the process I found Fordsys Free and it has TCM section. Didn't have time last night and now its snowing so I wont today most likely later in the week before I can try either program on the car. But has anyone ever used that (Fordsys) app?
 
Finally had time - with FORESCAN the log gave me a lot of "B" and "C" codes in places like the ABS, drivers seat, and such - no critical areas. That said, two things jumped out at me. A P1000 code - which means the system hasn't completed a drive cycle to determine anything. AND... more interesting - an error msg that said the PCM didn't match the ABS, ETC, TCM, etc.
So my first thought is somewhere before I got it either someone cleared the codes or disconnected the battery (or the battery got run down)or both and it needs to complete a drive cycle to set new codes which it can't because it cant go forward.
But what is this PCM not matching anything? A part of the P1000 or my problem all together? Re-flash the PCM?
 
...But what is this PCM not matching anything? A part of the P1000 or my problem all together? Re-flash the PCM?

This almost always is due to someone replacing the ABS module without running the calibrate routine on it, or starting the routine and not finishing it, or replacing it with the wrong module. Flashing the PCM wouldn't help, and it is unlikely that it was replaced. The LS will have to be driven at different speeds with different levels of fuel for a while (without disconnecting the battery or resetting OBD2 codes) to set all the monitors. This may be difficult at present, depending on the restrictions in your area.
 
the biggest restriction is it wont go forward...

I'm "essential services" so being out and about is no issue.

Since I don't have any codes, can the car just sit / running and in gear (any - D1-5) and ultimately set codes without moving? Can I drive it around the neighborhood in reverse and set trans codes?
 
No, I think you have to fix the transmission problem before you go after anything else. If you aren't getting any electrical codes for the solenoids, then you are not going to get any codes anyhow that would help with the mechanical problem(s) with the transmission.
I too am considered as "essential", but I am minimizing my travels other than the work commute.
 
the biggest restriction is it wont go forward...

I'm "essential services" so being out and about is no issue.

Since I don't have any codes, can the car just sit / running and in gear (any - D1-5) and ultimately set codes without moving? Can I drive it around the neighborhood in reverse and set trans codes?
Is the shift lever mechanicals getting to the transmission? Easy to check under the car.
 
Is the shift lever mechanicals getting to the transmission? Easy to check under the car.

As near as I can tell it appears it is functional. The one thing I have noted is the the shift electrics looks "oily". As if a seal behind it leaks or its just blow-by from the rear main area.
 
As near as I can tell it appears it is functional. The one thing I have noted is the the shift electrics looks "oily". As if a seal behind it leaks or its just blow-by from the rear main area.

I don't think a leak would cause this. Doesn't help anything either though.
Yeah the linkage needs to move a pawl inside the tranny to shift. I thought maybe it might be stuck in the R position. You've tried moving the shift lever inside and verifying the linkage moves under the car, yes? Though it still has to move inside. Sorry I dont have any other ideas except for dropping the pan and having a look around. There's a well known problem in the valve body where a $5 spring breaks preventing the car from shifting above third. I fixed that in a 5R55 couple years ago. WHen I put it all together, I had forgotten to reconnect the shift linkage. Car would back up but not go forward. Thus my question to you. Good luck.
 
Park, reverse and neutral all work fine. As near as I can tell its moving thru the entire range of D1-5. Since its a sealed unit you can't really see it move anything. Put your hand on it while someone else moves it and you can feel action within.
 
Park, reverse and neutral all work fine. As near as I can tell its moving thru the entire range of D1-5. Since its a sealed unit you can't really see it move anything. Put your hand on it while someone else moves it and you can feel action within.
As mentioned earlier in another post...most likely this issue is something Mechanical... What color was the fluid?
 
Fluid color was dark...almost brown, so I'm going to change it/filter this weekend and see if it helps. Can't hurt...
 
Fluid color was dark...almost brown, so I'm going to change it/filter this weekend and see if it helps. Can't hurt...
Yeah just as I suspected...a good sign that something is burnt up in the mechanical parts...of course you could get lucky...wouldn't hold my breath though...hoping your outcome is good but these transmissions are known for failure...does slap stick manual work at all?
 
Fluid color was dark...almost brown, so I'm going to change it/filter this weekend and see if it helps. Can't hurt...
Your best outcome would be getting by with replacing the solenoid pack ...but it's a hailmary ....the reality of the situation is bringing it to a respectable indy transmission shop and getting a quote ...I mean without any codes being present your going into this blind ...cheapest route is crossing your fingers and replacing the solenoid pack ...buy new ...not a re-man pack from ebay...they're known for failure...use OEM Mercon V fluid...but this is considered throwing parts at it...never good...I mean if you wanna try putting new fluid and filter in it go for it ...I could be wrong ...this could miraculously fix the problem ...but from my experience...if the fluid is dark color...its a good sign you're looking at a rebuild
 
I had considered the solenoid pack. As a test I thought about going the wrecking yard and finding a wrecked car (you'd know it was driving if wrecked!) and pulling the solenoid pack out of it. But fining an S Type or LS is a hens teeth type thing. So I question - will the solenoid pack swap from other units? Say a 5R55S or W? There are plenty of wrecked Explorers in the yards from 99-01 that I could pull the pack from for a test and it only cost me $25 and fluid to try it. I also considered trying a band adjustment. Heck...I also thought about swapping the TCM. But that has to be programmed to work...right?
 
I had considered the solenoid pack. As a test I thought about going the wrecking yard and finding a wrecked car (you'd know it was driving if wrecked!) and pulling the solenoid pack out of it. But fining an S Type or LS is a hens teeth type thing. So I question - will the solenoid pack swap from other units? Say a 5R55S or W? There are plenty of wrecked Explorers in the yards from 99-01 that I could pull the pack from for a test and it only cost me $25 and fluid to try it. I also considered trying a band adjustment. Heck...I also thought about swapping the TCM. But that has to be programmed to work...right?
I guess if you have some time on your hands ...lots of ppl do right now...due to the Covid-19 quarantine...but its sounds like a lot of work to pull a solenoid pack and then pull the existing one out and replace it with a used solenoid ...because my thought pattern says ...if it doesnt fix the problem who says the replacement part even works ...at least a new solenoid pack can be used if you need something else replaced or you can sell it with a guarantee that it works if you decide to sell the car
 
A new pack would be nice, but at $325 into a currently $500 car and it doesn't work its still a $500 car. If I put in a $25 used pack from a formerly running (wrecked) car (or Explorer if they swap) I still have a good chance of it working and if it doesn't I'm out $60 (pack and fluid) instead of $350.
 
A new pack would be nice, but at $325 into a currently $500 car and it doesn't work its still a $500 car. If I put in a $25 used pack from a formerly running (wrecked) car (or Explorer if they swap) I still have a good chance of it working and if it doesn't I'm out $60 (pack and fluid) instead of $350.
You have a good point...Have you ever changed out the solenoid pack in a Lincoln LS?
 
You have a good point...Have you ever changed out the solenoid pack in a Lincoln LS?
no, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn once.... ;)

to date I've watched four U Tube vids on the process. Sometimes I feel like the Matrix has come alive and you can download how to be a neurosurgeon and do surgery 5 minutes later. Between those and the manual the only thing I don't like is the "innards" of an automatic transmission (things above the valve body). I've done similar work on Jeeps (governors, solenoids, etc) so I'm not afraid at least. Heck, I even bought an articulated 10mm for the electrical connection.
 
no, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn once.... ;)

to date I've watched four U Tube vids on the process. Sometimes I feel like the Matrix has come alive and you can download how to be a neurosurgeon and do surgery 5 minutes later. Between those and the manual the only thing I don't like is the "innards" of an automatic transmission (things above the valve body). I've done similar work on Jeeps (governors, solenoids, etc) so I'm not afraid at least. Heck, I even bought an articulated 10mm for the electrical connection.
Yeah ...you're 10 steps ahead of me when I went into it...and since you stayed at a Holiday Inn you'll have no problem whatsoever lol! ;)
 
I had considered the solenoid pack. As a test I thought about going the wrecking yard and finding a wrecked car (you'd know it was driving if wrecked!) and pulling the solenoid pack out of it. But fining an S Type or LS is a hens teeth type thing. So I question - will the solenoid pack swap from other units? Say a 5R55S or W? There are plenty of wrecked Explorers in the yards from 99-01 that I could pull the pack from for a test and it only cost me $25 and fluid to try it. I also considered trying a band adjustment. Heck...I also thought about swapping the TCM. But that has to be programmed to work...right?
Sorry for the late response....NO! The 2nd Gen Transmission 5R55S is not compatible with 1st Gen Lincoln LS Transmission 5R55N...again ...THESE WILL NOT INTERCHANGE...again I will say ...if you have no solenoid codes stored it's very likely this is a mechanical failure...burnt Bands...broken springs...burnt up clutches...so forth and so forth...but like I said the good Lord could bless your socks off and miraculously make this LS's transmission go forward with a shift solenoid pack...I'm sure you're aware of this and I'm singing to the choir...but a good transmission shop and/or Mechanic will have the computer technology ( at least my transmission guys have it ) to test the transmission for electronic or mechanical errors
 
The other side of this that I'm chasing is the fact the battery had been unhooked so codes had been cleared. There may be codes that had been set, just now that I can't drive it forward they can't set again to make any determination. So at this point your right. I just need to take it to an independent trans guy and let them electro/mechanically test it. Gonna cost me probably a couple of hundred but probably worth it n the long run since I'm flying blind at this point.
 
Or... you could go to a junkyard and find a first gen LS... pull the drain plug briefly and see if the color of the fluid is a nice clean red... then negotiate a price and ask them if that includes removal from the vehicle.

The rest would be up to you and a buddy after that.
 
I considered that 04_Sport_LS. I found a 2000 S Type Jag in a yard and went and looked at it Saturday. Car looked really nice. Pulled the cam covers and both chains were in place which tells me the tranny probably failed....
 

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