A few somewhat minor issues

num1bigguy

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hour north of detroit
Issue #1
Drivers side window sash clips pulled off of the glass. I’ve looked around quite a bit and can’t seem to find much good information on a repair. I have sourced and located used glass with clips still on it. The clips have a nut to remove them from the regulator. Window has been stuck up for about a year and I just want to be lazy at the drive thru. If I press switch to go down the regulator looks to move freely.

Issue#2
Passenger front window won’t go down. At first it was only on hot days and then it died altogether. I’ve been assuming it’s the motor. It can be replaced without changing the regulator. It doesn’t matter whether I use the master switch or the switch on the passenger door all I get is an audible click. Both rear windows and drivers window work with master switch.

Issue #3
Everybody’s favorite. Transmission. My check engine light isn’t on. I don’t get any warnings in the message center. On occasion when stopping to a complete stop the transmission will fail to downshift from 2-1. It will give me a neutral condition. I’ve been able to get it to clunk into gear by holding my left foot on the brake and giving the car a rev. It will violently clunk into gear and then be fine for sometimes months on end. It will spin the tires and run all the way to shift point perfectly with a quick shift to second with no slip. I did a pan drop and filter change at 125,000 miles. Since the factory reusable gasket was there I assume I was the first to do a fluid change. It’s been 15,000 miles and I’m due for another change. Should I do a flush this time, or another pan drop?

Thank you everyone in advance. This is my second conti and I drive it everyday. It’s a snow belt car and has the rust on the rockers and dogleg areas. It won’t ever be perfect, but if I can improve a couple things, I could be happier with the car. Also as a side note I need the car to last another 2 years. I’ve had it for 3 and average 5000 miles a year.
 
I do believe the transmission issue can be caused by a bad shift solenoid.
Lots of strange things happen when one of these buggers goes bad.
 
Issue #1
Drivers side window sash clips pulled off of the glass. I’ve looked around quite a bit and can’t seem to find much good information on a repair. I have sourced and located used glass with clips still on it. The clips have a nut to remove them from the regulator. Window has been stuck up for about a year and I just want to be lazy at the drive thru. If I press switch to go down the regulator looks to move freely.

Issue#2
Passenger front window won’t go down. At first it was only on hot days and then it died altogether. I’ve been assuming it’s the motor. It can be replaced without changing the regulator. It doesn’t matter whether I use the master switch or the switch on the passenger door all I get is an audible click. Both rear windows and drivers window work with master switch.

Issue #3
Everybody’s favorite. Transmission. My check engine light isn’t on. I don’t get any warnings in the message center. On occasion when stopping to a complete stop the transmission will fail to downshift from 2-1. It will give me a neutral condition. I’ve been able to get it to clunk into gear by holding my left foot on the brake and giving the car a rev. It will violently clunk into gear and then be fine for sometimes months on end. It will spin the tires and run all the way to shift point perfectly with a quick shift to second with no slip. I did a pan drop and filter change at 125,000 miles. Since the factory reusable gasket was there I assume I was the first to do a fluid change. It’s been 15,000 miles and I’m due for another change. Should I do a flush this time, or another pan drop?

Thank you everyone in advance. This is my second conti and I drive it everyday. It’s a snow belt car and has the rust on the rockers and dogleg areas. It won’t ever be perfect, but if I can improve a couple things, I could be happier with the car. Also as a side note I need the car to last another 2 years. I’ve had it for 3 and average 5000 miles a year.

1. I've searched the only thing that is a video about windows is for a 1998 Lincoln Town Car. They are on Youtube under 1A Auto Parts. Sorry to say, unfortunately I can't find any other info about this. It should give you an idea as to how to go about it. drivers door window sash replacement 1998 lincoln continental - Google Search

2. Mine is doing this but the opposite. When I use my master switch and both switches on the rear windows that power each rear window, none go down. I hear a click also. I believe this is due to the connections being corroded. The door panels would need to be taken off, and the contacts on the switch and connectors thoroughly cleaned with some electrical cleaner and some fine sand paper. It might be a window motor, but I'd really would assume its a corrosion problem.

3. Your right its everyone's favorite! The trans problems. A lot of it has to do with a Trans code. Is your check engine light on? Did you get the codes read at all? What did they say? Typically its going to be a transmission shift solenoid. It will be a TCC code, or trans converter problem. Basically it will shudder and often at times, you'll lose 2nd or third gear. This is the main cause of this. Intermediate clutch failure is what this is. Mainly has to do with improper maintenance and lack of fluid changes. Don't follow the 30K to change the fluid and filter, change all this out every 15K.

* Do you smell any burning fluid at all? Sometimes the pressure will blow the trans dip stick up and the fluid will boil over and will burn off. Watch for this.
* On the trans pan does it say AX4N or AX4S, or 4F50N which was a rename of the AX4N in 2001, this ended in 2006. The data plate code is X. These trans have 19 bolt pan.
* If there is a hard shift from drive gear or any other its a neutral to drive accumulater that is going bad.
* The cable for the gear shift stretches is also common.

I wish I could have responded sooner, but things have been so busy lately. I hope this helps.

-Svets
 
Came from Streetsmarttransmission.com Here are some trouble codes to look at to keep in mind:

Trouble Code Description
P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0715
P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid 'A' Electrical
P0750 Shift Solenoid 'A'
P0751 Shift Solenoid 'A' Performance or Stuck Off
P0752 Shift Solenoid 'A' Stuck On
P0753 Shift Solenoid 'A' Electrical
P0755 Shift Solenoid 'B'
P0756 Shift Solenoid 'B' Performance or Stuck Off
P0757 Shift Solenoid 'B' Stuck On
P0758 Shift Solenoid 'B' Electrical
P0817 Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position Switch Reverse with Drive Ratio
P0817 Starter Disable Circuit
P0840 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch “A”
P0960 Pressure Control Solenoid “A” Control Circuit/Open
P0961 Pressure Control Solenoid “A” Control Circuit Range/Performance
P0962 Pressure Control Solenoid “A” Control Circuit Low
P0963 Pressure Control Solenoid “A” Control Circuit High
P0977 Shift Solenoid “B” Control Circuit High
P0978 Shift Solenoid “C” Control Circuit Range/Performance
P0979 Shift Solenoid “C” Control Circuit Low
P0980 Shift Solenoid “C” Control Circuit High
P0982 Shift Solenoid “D” Control Circuit Low
P0983 Shift Solenoid “D” Control Circuit High
P0985 Shift Solenoid “E” Control Circuit Low
P0986 Shift Solenoid “E” Control Circuit High
 
Thank you for the response. I too had searched and found that video you linked. I had tried 3M window weld to reattach the sash clips, but they pulled free after about 6 months again. I was hoping I would get a couple more responses on whether to do a flush for the trans or another pan drop. When I first purchased the car it didn't come with a service history. I assumed the trans had never been changed and did a pan drop the first month I owned the car. Now its time to do another 15,000 mile change and was curious if anyone had flushed their's with good results. Also the car, shockingly, has no check engine lights on and also I haven't gotten a check transmission error message in the message center, my old Conti would cough up those errors but I get nothing. I know the check engine circuit is working correctly because I had one code 18 months ago for an evap condition that straightened itself out after a couple cycles. Its just a couple of gremlins for now I suppose
 
Thank you for the response. I too had searched and found that video you linked. I had tried 3M window weld to reattach the sash clips, but they pulled free after about 6 months again. I was hoping I would get a couple more responses on whether to do a flush for the trans or another pan drop. When I first purchased the car it didn't come with a service history. I assumed the trans had never been changed and did a pan drop the first month I owned the car. Now its time to do another 15,000 mile change and was curious if anyone had flushed their's with good results. Also the car, shockingly, has no check engine lights on and also I haven't gotten a check transmission error message in the message center, my old Conti would cough up those errors but I get nothing. I know the check engine circuit is working correctly because I had one code 18 months ago for an evap condition that straightened itself out after a couple cycles. Its just a couple of gremlins for now I suppose

If I were you I would do another pan drop to change fluid and filter. Some say the trans exchangers are good others say not so good. It's basically up to you. If you have a good shop that uses a BG trans fluid machine this is the one you want to have done. It gets all the old fluid out. If it is a BG trans machine I would have the shop flush it out using this machine.
 

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