Bad Tie Rod and Sway Bar links?

rgorke

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So, starting hearing a slight rumble type noise going over small bumps/rough road...took off front wheel and have this....(video). The sway bar links are Moogs and are only 2 years old.

I don’t Have any noticeable issues with steering.

 
Jack the car up and put on jack stands... so tires are off the ground. Grab the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock position and wiggle back and forth.

Any play would be tie rod or possibly wheel bearing. Go underneath the car and repeat.

When under the car... if you see any wheel and rotor movement... but no tie
rod movement... most likely the wheel bearing. If you see tie rod movement... then you found the problem.

Don't forget that the inner tie rods go bad too. You will probably have to pull the boot on the rack to check them... by sticking your finger inside the rack housing while you wiggle the tire side to side.

If all that checks out... then while still on jack stands... put a jack under the lower control arm at the lower shock eye... and jack up the lower control arm til it almost wants to raise the car off the jack stand.

Then grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position... and wiggle. If there is any movement... inspect upper control arm ball joint, and main ball joint. This would also be the best time to check the sway bar links... because they will be looser with the suspension under compression... and any slop will be more noticeable.

If all if this checks out... it most likely will be the sway bar bushings.

This is assuming all of your control arm bushings are still in good condition.
 
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Jack the car up and put on jack stands... so tires are off the ground. Grab the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock position and wiggle back and forth.

Any play would be tie rod or possibly wheel bearing. Go underneath the car and repeat.

If you see wheel and rotor movement
... but no tie rod movement... most likely wheel bearing. If you see tie rod movement... then you found the problem.

Don't forget that the inner tie rods go bad too. You will probably have to pull the boot on the rack to check them... by sticking your finger inside the rack housing while you wiggle the tire side to side.

If all that checks out... then while still on jack stands... put a jack under the lower control arm at the lower shock eye... and jack up the lower control arm til it almost wants to raise the car off the jack stand.

Then grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position... and wiggle. If there is any movement... inspect upper control arm ball joint, and main ball joint. This would also be the best time to check the sway bar links... because they will be looser with the suspension under compression... and any slop will be more noticeable.

If all if this checks out... it most likely will be the sway bar bushings.

This is assuming all of your control arm bushings are still in good condition.

Thanks, I did the 9 & 3 and the 12 & 6 Ball Joint tests (below) but didn't do some of the others you suggest. What I am hearing is a rumble or "nibble" noise when going over small bumps/roughness in the road. I do have a minor squeak when going over speed bumps. There isn't a clunk, per se that may indicate a ball joint failing.

I am fairly sure my control arm bushings are nearing the end of their useful life. That was the source of my question related to alignment. I want to make sure I replace everything that would affect alignment all at once as to not have to do multiple alignments, if that makes sense. I have some front LCAs to install but should probably wait until I get the UCAs, tie rods, and knuckle/lower ball joint.

Ball Joint Inspection

  1. Prior to inspecting the ball joints for wear, inspect the wheel bearings. For additional information, refer to Section 100-04 .
  1. NOTE: In order to get accurate measurements, the suspension must be in full rebound with the weight of the vehicle supported by the frame.

    Raise and support the vehicle by the frame to allow the wheels to hang in the rebound position.
  1. Inspect the ball joint and ball joint boot for damage.
    • If the ball joint or ball joint boot is damaged, install a new ball joint. For additional information, refer to Section 204-01 .
NOTE: Carry out Steps 4-6 to inspect the lower ball joint. Carry out Steps 7-9 to inspect the upper ball joint.

  1. s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
    CAUTION: Do not use any tools or equipment to move the wheel and tire assembly or suspension components while checking for relative movement. Suspension damage can occur. The use of tools or equipment will also create relative movement that may not exists when using hand force. Relative movement must be measured using hand force only.


    NOTE: The weight of the wheel and tire assembly must be overcome to get an accurate measurement on the dial indicator.

    Inspect the ball joint for relative movement by alternately pulling downward and pushing upward on the wheel and tire assembly by hand. Note any relative vertical movement between the wheel knuckle and lower arm at the lower ball joint
    • If relative movement is not felt or seen, the ball joint is OK. Do not install a new ball joint.
    • If relative movement is found, continue with Step 5.
  1. NOTE: In order to obtain an accurate measurement, the dial indicator should be aligned as close as possible with the vertical axis (center line) of the ball joint.

    To measure ball joint deflection, attach a suitable dial indicator with a flexible arm between the lower control arm and the wheel knuckle or ball joint stud.
s6x~us~en~file=n0044032.gif~gen~ref.gif

  1. Measure the ball joint deflection, while an assistant pushes up and pulls down on the wheel and tire assembly, by hand.
    • If the deflection exceeds the specification, a new ball joint must be installed. For additional information, refer to Section 204-01 .
    • If the deflection meets the specification, continue with the procedure.
  1. s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
    CAUTION: Do not use any tools or equipment to move the wheel and tire assembly or suspension components while checking for relative movement or suspension damage can occur. The use of tools or equipment will also create relative movement that may not exist when using hand force. Relative movement must be measured using hand force only.


    Inspect the ball joint for relative movement by alternately pulling downward and pushing upward on the upper control arm by hand. Note any relative vertical movement between the wheel knuckle and upper arm at the upper ball joint.
    • If relative movement is not felt or seen, the ball joint is OK. Do not install a new ball joint.
    • If relative movement is found, continue with Step 8.
s6x~us~en~file=n0044169.gif~gen~ref.gif

  1. NOTE: In order to obtain an accurate measurement, the dial indicator should be aligned as close as possible with the vertical axis of the ball joint.

    To measure ball joint deflection, attach a suitable dial indicator with a flexible arm between the upper control arm and the wheel knuckle or ball joint stud.
  1. Measure the ball joint deflection, while an assistant pushes up and then pulls down on the upper control arm, by hand.
    • If the deflection exceeds the specification, a new ball joint must be installed. For additional information, refer to Section 204-01 .
    • If the deflection meets the specification, no further action is required.
 
Sometimes wheel bearings can be bad/sloppy/loose... and still run silent down the road.

As far as this:

The use of tools or equipment will also create relative movement that may not exists when using hand force.

... that basically means no pry bars. I've witnessed "wanna be" mechanics take 5 foot pry bars, and hang on them to check a ball joint. Not good.

The 12/6 method checks for lateral play... but not vertical... so the manual has it correct for vertical movement... but the joint can have lateral movement too.

With the lower knuckle ball joint... you'll want to pull the tire off and use the same method as the upper arm.

The reason for jacking the lower control arm up... is so that the suspension/ball joint isn't in a bind at full extension due to the spring pressure.

I know some people disagree with my suggested method... but it prevents a false negative... similar to my reasoning on the sway bar links, which could be checked with the car on the ground also.
 
I do have a minor squeak when going over speed bump

Front or rear? Rear would most likely be one of the left rear control arm bushings.

Front could be ball joint or control arm bushings. You could try spraying some sort if lubricant on the bushings.

If that doesn't help... then get one of those syringe type grease needles and put some grease in the lower ball joint. If the squeak the goes away... you know what you need to do... but that doesn't mean there aren't other issues too.
 
I had a small clunk sort of noise at low speeds over slight bumps. I could make it do the noise by pushing down of the car while it was sitting still, so I used a stethoscope to find (to my surprise) that it was coming from one of the front shocks. Replacement of that shock did stop that noise.
 
Update...I replaced the tie rods...but that didn’t help. Got my wife in the car to help identify location (I have one bad ear, so location is difficult).

she said it was the right rear. I kept pulling on things, greasing, etc. still there!!! Then this morning, I was giving another check and was at 9&3 on the brake rotor...it had significant play. As I looked around...the brake bolts had come loose!!!!!

This is the corner that I replaced the half axle and LCA. I either didn’t torque the bolts properly or I need to put some loctite on the bolt. The were loose enough that I could finger tighten them a full turn!!!!

Clunk is gone!!!!!
 

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