Hub remover replacer tool

[rgorke]

I a going to be replacing my rear half axle soon. Is there an alternative for this tool? Or something else you all have used?

 

[04_Sport_LS]

PB Blaster and heat, (torch set).

The following is also for wheel bearing replacement, (since you're already going to be "in there").

You'll want to get everything out of the way. P brake cable, caliper and bracket, outer toe link, sway bar link, etc.

Once you get the axle nut off you'll want to spray the splined part of the axle shaft... both on the outboard and inboard side of the hub flange, (behind the knuckle)... and let it soak. Use the PB very liberally.

Then gently heat the center of the outborard portion of the hub flange... being careful not to heat the axle shaft also. Keep a fire extinguisher handy, but it shouldn't really be needed, (any small flame from the PB will blow out easily.

It helps to spray some PB on the opposite side that you are heating... because the heat draws the PB towards it.

Once the center of the hub flange is warm enough... it will "release" from the axle shaft... making it easier to drive out of the hub flange.

Once you can get the axle shaft to drive in some, (not so far that it bottoms out against the differential... then remove the, (pre loosened), lower knuckle bolt... and keep driving the axle shaft inward... while you pull out on the knuckle.

Eventually you will have to remove the knuckle from the upper control arm.

Place the knuckle face down on firm surface... with some properly placed wood blocks as spacers high enough to allow hub flange removal... and drive out hub flange from bearing. Keep in mind that hub flange drives out from the inside to outside of knuckle... and bearing drives out from outside of knuckle to inside of knuckle. Shop press works well too.

Reverse process for install of bearing and hub flange... but REMEMBER... besring goes in from back side of knuckle... and hub flange goes in from front side of knuckle.

The new bearing will most likely have a 2 piece inner race... so the back half of the inner race will have to be supported by something so that the bearing doesn't come apart when driving in the hub flange. I forget what I used... but It was slightly smaller than the O.D. of the bearing... but large enough to catch the O.D. and still clear the I.D. to allow the hub flange to be fully driven in.

The rest is just a reverse of the disassembly.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Actually... as I retrace the steps in my head... I think I unbolted the bottom part of the knuckle first... and popped the axle shaft out of the differential before heating the flange, and then reattached the knuckle and then drove the axle shaft out if the hub flange with the back of the axle shaft hanging free.

Doing it this way prevented any damage to the differential.

 

[rgorke]

Thanks, but I probably should have been more clearerer...

I am just replacing the CV half axle assembly. My concern (if it is that) is getting the knuckle off of the half axle. The "Hub removal" tool is suppose to pull the whole knuckle away from the axle... then I can position the knuckle aside and remove the axle. I have the other small tools to plug the differential and protect the seal. It is removing the axle from the knuckle that I am worried about.

I have seen some whack the axle with a hammer to loosen it but that doesn't sit well with me.

does that make sense or am I missing something?

Thanks

This part of the instructions to remove the half axle.

1. Using the special tools, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub.

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[04_Sport_LS]

The "Hub removal" tool is suppose to pull the whole knuckle away from the axle...

I know what you are trying to do.

Actually... the hub removal tool is used to pull the hub flange out of the bearing, (thus the name HUB removal tool... not axle removal tool).

Since the knuckle is attached to both the upper and lower control arm... there is no way to pull the knuckle away from the axle shaft... and if you unbolt the knuckle... all you will do is pull the axle shaft out of the differential... and the axle shaft will still be stuck in the hub flange.

Even then... if you do pull the hub flange out of the knuckle... the bearing will still be in the way, and prevent you from pulling the axle shaft out through the hole in the knuckle... meaning you will still have to unbolt the knuckle from the control arms to get the axle shaft out.

 

[milehighmikey]

They make a tool which I own, which uses 3 wheel studs and lug nuts to establish a base from where to push, which may be needed to send the axle out of the hub, once it is free to move away from the axle. So yeah, pull the control arms off the knuckle to allow the knuckle to move in the correct direction to allow this to happen, then hope that the tool both fits the lug pattern of the LS and that it can actually push the axle out the backside. I believe that the tool I own is too small for the LS lug pattern, but more cars have the wider lug spacing today and you should be able to rent one from Advance or Autozone. You could even get a kit from Harbor Freight for this, but there is no guarantee that it will fit the LS.

 

[rgorke]

I know what you are trying to do.

Actually... the hub removal tool is used to pull the hub flange out of the bearing, (thus the name HUB removal tool... not axle removal tool).

Since the knuckle is attached to both the upper and lower control arm... there is no way to pull the knuckle away from the axle shaft... and if you unbolt the knuckle... all you will do is pull the axle shaft out of the differential... and the axle shaft will still be stuck in the hub flange.

Even then... if you do pull the hub flange out of the knuckle... the bearing will still be in the way, and prevent you from pulling the axle shaft out through the hole in the knuckle... meaning you will still have to unbolt the knuckle from the control arms to get the axle shaft out.

Ok, now I get what you are saying...if I use the heat and PB, I won't need the "tool", the axle should just slide out easily. yes, all the bolts for the knuckle will be removed so I am not pulling the half axle out of the differential (per the instructions below).

I was mainly seeing if another type of tool might work.

1. 
   CAUTION: Do not begin this procedure unless:
   
   • a new rear axle wheel hub retainer is available.
   • a new axle circlip is available.
   • you have read Halfshaft Handling in this section.
   
   
   With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer.

1. 
   CAUTION: When removing the caliper, never allow it to hang from the brake hose. Provide a suitable support.
   
   Remove the rear brake caliper and support bracket as an assembly.

1. Remove the rear anti-lock speed sensor from the hub.

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1. Remove and discard the suspension lower arm nut and bolt.

1. Remove the toe-link nut and bolt.

1. Using the special tools, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub.

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1. 
   CAUTION: Do not over-angulate the outboard CV joint or damage the boot.
   
   While raising the knuckle, remove the CV joint from the hub.

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1. Position the knuckle to gain clear access for the halfshaft removal.

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1. 
   CAUTION: The crown of the tool forks must face away from the axle housing. Position the special tool correctly between the CV joint and the axle housing so as not to damage the differential seal.
   
   Using the special tool, exert enough pressure to overcome the axle circlip and separate the CV joint from the differential side gear.

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1. 
   CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the special tool before removing the inboard CV joint housing from the axle.
   
   Install the special tool.

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1. Install the special tool.

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[04_Sport_LS]

if I use the heat and PB, I won't need the "tool", the axle should just slide out easily

Correct... though it may not slide out easily if it is rusted to the hub flange... depending on where you live.

I ended up driving mine out with a large hammer... using the instructions I first mentioned.

I do also very strongly recommend replacing the bearing while you have things apart... unless you want to go back in there at a later time to do everything over again.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

IIRC... I used a carefully placed pry bar on a wooden block to pop the axle shaft out of the diff... supporting the shaft with my other hand.

 

[rgorke]

IIRC... I used a carefully placed pry bar on a wooden block to pop the axle shaft out of the diff... supporting the shaft with my other hand.

I think that is what the half shaft tool 205-475 is for...I picked one up pretty cheap.

 

[Robert Crain]

I use this tool from OTC ( #7208A) to break the rust bond between the axle shaft and hub. OTC makes several versions of this tool. One version is designed to be smacked with a sledgehammer to keep you from busting your breaker bar when the rust is really bad.