Gen 2 Cooling Fan Questions...

rgorke

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How might one test a Gen 2 electric cooling fan (cuz there is only 1, right Joe!!!)? Aside from some higher than anticipated temps (215-220) while in traffic/ in town driving, I don’t hear the fan on when the temps are at that level (with hood open) and it (the fan) seems like it is trying to come on but not quite getting there.


So, is there a way to test the fan? Are fans fixable? IOWs, are there replacement parts or are they “one and done”?

If I replace, is Motorcraft a must? Or aftermarket ok?


Or, there are a couple of Gen 2 V8s at my local LKQ, a used one could be obtained. With all the caveats of using a used part, is this a horrible idea?

I did some forum searching but couldn’t find any insight...

thanks
 
The KOEO (Key on, engine off) self test will very briefly start the fan. It doesn't run it long enough to come up to speed, but you can hear it starting strongly. I'm fairly certain that you can turn the fan on manually from the actuators test section.
The fan motor and fan controller are integrated together, so I don't think there's any repair available. I wouldn't have a problem with using a junkyard fan. Failure seems to be rare. This said, I haven't seen a gen II in the local junkyard that didn't already have the fan removed.
 
Thanks, can I safely assume that the radiator is working properly when the temp drops to <185 coasting down a hill and/or stays at <195 at freeway speed?
 
Thanks, can I safely assume that the radiator is working properly when the temp drops to <185 coasting down a hill and/or stays at <195 at freeway speed?
AFAIK, yes.
 
I did do the Climate control self test (Off/defrost then Auto) and got a 2798 code: Driver Coolant Control Valve Open to ground.

Would this affect the car cooling system or is it purely a internal cabin heating issue?
 
It depends on the nature of the cause of the failure. If the driver's side solenoid is corroded open due to coolant leaking into it, then yes it could. On the other hand, if it's a bad connector or a broken wire then it wouldn't alter engine cooling.
 
So the book tells me this: (see below) How do I get to C228b, it is behind the dash? Don't I want to measure the resistance to ground on the DCCV itself vs the plug? Why would I need to disconnect the C228b if once the C1034 plug is disconnected it is not connected to the system? Or am I missing something?

  • Key in OFF position.
  • Disconnect: DATC Module C228b.
  • Disconnect: Coolant Control Valve C1034.
  • Measure the resistance between ground and:
    • coolant control valve C1034-1, circuit 91S-FB4 (BN/GN).
    • coolant control valve C1034-3, circuit 91S-FB3 (BN/BU).

    s6x~us~en~file=a0083828.gif~gen~ref.gif
  • Are the resistances greater than 10,000 ohms?
 
Okay, I was going by the description, not the number.
The correct description is : Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground
So, not corroded open, but shorted (could still be due to corrosion).

Yes, you can do that test on the valve without disconnecting C228, but you have to disconnect C228 to test the wiring like they are indicating.
Did you do the previous tests and find that the valve itself had no short? If so, you have to do the wiring test next, and that requires both connectors disconnected to isolate the wiring.
 
Okay, I was going by the description, not the number.
The correct description is : Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground
So, not corroded open, but shorted (could still be due to corrosion).

Yes, you can do that test on the valve without disconnecting C228, but you have to disconnect C228 to test the wiring like they are indicating.
Did you do the previous tests and find that the valve itself had no short? If so, you have to do the wiring test next, and that requires both connectors disconnected to isolate the wiring.
Ok, got it and looking at H10 with the DTCof 2798. I'm trying to find how to disconnect the C228b, do I have to pull the dash off?
 
Ok, got it and looking at H10 with the DTCof 2798. I'm trying to find how to disconnect the C228b, do I have to pull the dash off?

Pull out the trim panel that goes around the gear shift and ash tray.
Pull out the center vent (/w message center buttons if V8).
Unbolt the ash tray (four screws) and set to the side (no need to disconnect the wiring).
Remove two bolts under the climate control, and two bolts above the radio.
Pull the radio and climate control out. You can disconnect C228B without completely removing the assembly and there should be no need to disconnect the radio or other climate control connectors.
 
Update,

I did some checking with my DMM (digital multi-meter) and everything seemed to test ok. I ran the self test again and didn't get any codes. Could have been a bad connection and me wiggling the wires set things right or who knows. Upon looking at the manual again, for the 2798 code, depending on the results from test H10 (post#9), the solution is "install a new DATC" or "REPAIR circuit 91S-FB4 (BN/GN) or circuit 91S-FB3 (BN/BU) for a short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation". I was having trouble figuring out where or what are circuits 91S-FB4 (BN/GN) and 91S-FB3 (BN/BU). Are they referring to the wiring harness/plugs?
 
...I was having trouble figuring out where or what are circuits 91S-FB4 (BN/GN) and 91S-FB3 (BN/BU). Are they referring to the wiring harness/plugs?

Yes, the two wires and all the connectors that they go through.
 

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