Power Door Locks Weak

jerryg2112

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My power door locks are not working properly. Drivers door works with key fine. It also works (locks and unlocks) with the keypad but weakly meaning that the button moves only a little not fully like when you move it manually. The rear doors used to lock and unlock weakly with the keypad but now mostly they don't. The passenger door started not working first. I have scanned with Forscan and have no codes for the DDM or REM. I also ran the self test on each and got OK results.

I also did this: Measure the voltage between the RH front door latch C609-2, circuit 33-AA20 (YE/BU), harness side and ground while triggering the REM RH front door lock active command to ON; and measure the voltage between the RHfront door latch C609-10, circuit 32-AA21 (WH/GN), harness side and ground while triggering the REM RH front door unlock active command to ON. I got 12 volts. I decided to stop since it doesn't make sense to me that I have 12 volts but non functioning locks. Could there be enough voltage but not enough amperage? Can I test the output of the REM somehow?
 
Nope. It's the latch assemblies themselves. Lubricating them might resolve it, if you can't get it to all the places it needs to go without removing the latches from the doors. I had the same problem with the ones in my Ranger. Lubing them resolved it (from weak/not-working to strong).

By the way, the driver's door lock is driven by the DDM. The other three locks are driven by the REM.
 
My power door locks are not working properly.

Same problem here. I'd be interested to find out if you can solve the issue. Mine started about five years ago with drivers door, now all four (lock actuator lever partially moves or not at all). I only tried lubing the door latch and levers real good trying to get in to the actuator but that didn't seem to help. I also have a 93 Silverado that has had similar issue
for decades on RH door lock actuator lever (intermittently), but hitting the drivers lock button to unlock and lock again causes the RH door lock lever to get back in line. And I've had to lube everything on and around those doors (oil and low temp grease) since new in the winter to keep it all working but that RH lock lever seems to have a mind of it's own. When the LS started doing it I was hoping lube would fix it if I could get into the actuators and get it in the right place. But I have never been successful on the LS to affect them no matter what I tried. Also, in my case, when the LS started doing it I was having an issue with the alarm going off intermittently that I thought was caused by the door locks not engaging completely after it was parked and locked with FOB remote. So I tried locking the doors manually, but alarm still went off occasionally. At the time other family members were still using the car so I made a rule to always locked the doors manually and unlock drivers door with key only, and not to set the alarm. So my kid started leaning in the drivers seat with her bony knee to reach the other door locks before she got out and the drivers seat cover started ripping in three places. None of this bothers me too much, I'm the only driver now and I've just gotten used to it but being a former aircraft mechanic most of my life, and now retired, it makes me laugh thinking
those gremlins are following me around even in retirement. I recently saw a member selling his take off parts from his stripping down the car for weight reduction so he could race it and thought about buying the door lock actuators from him to try. but decided I wasn't that bored and will just put up with my weak azz locks. I still love the car, even as the list of annoying things I can't or won't fix grows.
 

I have a couple that have failed so far. A metal part broke in one of them, and something just slipped out of place in the other, but it was not repairable due to the flat flex electrical circuit no longer being flexible, so it broke on disassembly. Anyway, be warned that they can eventually fail such that you can no longer get the door open. They're pretty cheap to get from the local pick-n-pull junkyards. You don't need to match the part numbers, and they don't have to look exactly the same. They just have to come from the same generation as yours. (2000-2002 or 2003-2006)
 
I have a couple that have failed so far. A metal part broke in one of them, and something just slipped out of place in the other, but it was not repairable due to the flat flex electrical circuit no longer being flexible, so it broke on disassembly. Anyway, be warned that they can eventually fail such that you can no longer get the door open. They're pretty cheap to get from the local pick-n-pull junkyards. You don't need to match the part numbers, and they don't have to look exactly the same. They just have to come from the same generation as yours. (2000-2002 or 2003-2006)
 
Thanks for the info Joegr. I read your posts with enthusiasm for the details of the inner workings of this cars design. You've encouraged me to change at least a couple of the actuators. And my local pick a part always has a good supply of fresh inductees of the LS to choose from. Although it's sad to look them over on the internet for particular parts and see some that look like they are in much better shape than mine, kept in the garage all the time, and probably traded in recently and went straight to the yard from the dealer.
My LS is a Gen 2, 2005 with 119k miles. I bought it from a local dealer 11 years ago for $13,500 as a low mile lease trade in , supposedly came from a little ole lady in New Jersey. Even though I have to put the charger on it one in a while to keep the battery up because it's not a daily driver I can't seem to want to let it go enough for trade bait. Came close a few times. Last time I offered it for trade the dealer said $1,000 because it has the PAS light on. I said, oh that's just because my son, who's tall, sat in the RH Front seat on the way here and he adjusts it all the way down which trips the light. All you have to do is raise the seat up a little and the light goes out. He laughed. But I didn't give it up because I have new tires on it that are worth more.
 
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Well I tried to lube both front door lock actuators. Didn't completely remove them from the car since the cable is in the inner latch assembly and I didn't want to drill out the rivets. I squirted oil in every opening so it was dripping out of the one and white litheum spray in the other. Absolutely no change in either one of them. Everything moves freely as far as I can tell and this car hasn't seen any harsh weather being from Socal so I still really wonder if it isn't a electrical problem. Since I got the 2 months ago the problem has gotten worse on all the doors which also makes me question the latch assemblies as the cause. Sometimes none of the locks work or just the drivers door works. I am afraid to open one of the assemblies to see the inner workings since I don't have a backup and am not driving around with duct tape holding my door closed if I break it.
 
Well I tried to lube both front door lock actuators. Didn't completely remove them from the car since the cable is in the inner latch assembly and I didn't want to drill out the rivets. I squirted oil in every opening so it was dripping out of the one and white litheum spray in the other. Absolutely no change in either one of them. Everything moves freely as far as I can tell and this car hasn't seen any harsh weather being from Socal so I still really wonder if it isn't a electrical problem. Since I got the 2 months ago the problem has gotten worse on all the doors which also makes me question the latch assemblies as the cause. Sometimes none of the locks work or just the drivers door works. I am afraid to open one of the assemblies to see the inner workings since I don't have a backup and am not driving around with duct tape holding my door closed if I break it.

There's no need to drill out any rivets. The cable easily detaches from the door latch assembly.
It's not electrical. You measured good voltage, and I've seen exactly what you're describing. It's the latch assemblies. You probably just need to get some good ones from the junkyard.
 
Has anyone sourced the little electric motor in the door lock actuator? I completely disassembled one and I think that the motor has no torque left in it. Body is 18mm x 24mm x 30mm. Shaft is 2 mm x 15mm to the body. There are splines on the shaft for the gear and the end has two threaded holes for mounting.

IMG_20190705_091926331.jpg
 
Contact Allied Electronics

https://www.alliedelec.com/

Probably best to call them. Give them all the dimensions in your above post... including the numbers on the side of the motor.

If that doesn't work you'll probably have to source the assembly from a bone yard as Joe suggested... which to me seems easier and less time consuming.
 
Update. I wanted to see if it was indeed the motors that were the problem on my week door lock actuators. After searching for a replacement motor that would work I gave up on a exact fit and ordered the FC280 20150 motors commonly used to fix the door lock actuators from the Lexus and other vehicles. I have fixed two doors so far and they work fantastic now. The old motors were definitely the problem in my case. I will post a tutorial with pictures in the near future of the process for anyone who is interested in doing this instead of replacing the whole actuators.
 
Update. I wanted to see if it was indeed the motors that were the problem on my week door lock actuators. After searching for a replacement motor that would work I gave up on a exact fit and ordered the FC280 20150 motors commonly used to fix the door lock actuators from the Lexus and other vehicles. I have fixed two doors so far and they work fantastic now. The old motors were definitely the problem in my case. I will post a tutorial with pictures in the near future of the process for anyone who is interested in doing this instead of replacing the whole actuators.
I really look forward to your tutorial ...I have the same exact problem you had ...it has slowly become worse over time thanks so much!
 

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