steering wheel pulsing

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Hi Everyone,

I notice this once after the wheel alignment and thought it had to do with that. i took it back and they double checked it and said no issues.
A few months later noticed it again. Just yesterday been a month or so it did it again. Each time on the hwy and usually on an off ramp. This time it did for 5 or so miles after the hwy at all speeds. I checked uca/lca, tie rods etc. all are tight.

I did some searching here and found it could be a hub, or the rack, or the power steering pump or the wire connected to the pump. This looks brittle and thought that may not be making a solid connection, until today, when it did it again. I got home and checked the hubs for play and only found a bit of play 1 maybe 2 mm, almost not existent. It spins easy and can't feel any grinding. It was hot and think it may have cooled off once I got home and checked it after dinner. I do have a faint hum now, any way to confirm this is the hub?
 
Mine was 100% the Rack. I would take off ramp and the wheel would cycle like on and off thru the arc of the turn. Put new rack in and could fly on off ramps now.
 
Investigated further, it appears a hub can be bad even with little or no movement. I checked the play again and one side has none, the other does have a one or two mm and upon full rotation I can hear a grunt when spinning 360 degrees at the same spot. This could be rotor/pads though.

Odd you can see the ball bearings and couldn't see grease. So i packed it with wheel bearing grease as much as i could without removing - i understand these are one time use spindle nuts on the front?

Read here that some members have bent back the tabs on the nut to reuse - although it was an old thread. Is this an option? If not does the nut come with the hub or do you have to buy seperately?

Any reco's on which brand? I can purchase at rockauto $71 each+ duties + shipping, but think it may be cheaper to pull hub and take to a machine shop and press out bearing and replace. Any thoughts?

My front rotors are 1.5 yrs old, that rust is from the salt they put down for winter.

I will see if the grease stops the tiny new hum and rarely accompanied pulsing. I didn't feel any grittiness to the hub, so not 100% what is causing this rare occurrence.

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In my experience, replacing the whole Hub assembly is easier than pressing in a new bearing.

To confirm the wheel bearing, go for a drive and listen if the humming softens-up when turning the wheel towards the side where you hear the hum. If the hum dissipates but returns when you straighten the wheel, then it's the Wheel Bearing.

You want to look at RockAuto or Summit Racing etc and get the TIMKEN 513092 Hub Assembly. Others will correct me if I'm mistaken, but I believe FORD used TIMKENs on their vehicles as well other their own MOTORCRAFT hubs, so a lot of us flock to TIMKEN for hub necessities because they're seen as being OEM.

1998 LINCOLN MARK VIII 4.6L V8 Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly | RockAuto

$256 vs $54+shipping ... Do the math.

Or punch in the 513092 number in the listing for the ECCP and the TIMKEN unit comes up for $64 + free shipping!!!

And since you're no longer going to pay $256, it may be prudent to get 2 hub assemblies and change them both out before the other starts humming as well.

*Be sure to have a breaker bar for the axle nut along with some penetrating fluid & a hammer/mallet just in case the hubs are seized.*

Should be 10-20 mins each side.
 

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  • Mark VIII Wheel Hub Assembly.pdf
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In my experience, replacing the whole Hub assembly is easier than pressing in a new bearing.

To confirm the wheel bearing, go for a drive and listen if the humming softens-up when turning the wheel towards the side where you hear the hum. If the hum dissipates but returns when you straighten the wheel, then it's the Wheel Bearing.

You want to look at RockAuto or Summit Racing etc and get the TIMKEN 513092 Hub Assembly. Others will correct me if I'm mistaken, but I believe FORD used TIMKENs on their vehicles as well other their own MOTORCRAFT hubs, so a lot of us flock to TIMKEN for hub necessities because they're seen as being OEM.

1998 LINCOLN MARK VIII 4.6L V8 Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly | RockAuto

$256 vs $54+shipping ... Do the math.

Or punch in the 513092 number in the listing for the ECCP and the TIMKEN unit comes up for $64 + free shipping!!!

And since you're no longer going to pay $256, it may be prudent to get 2 hub assemblies and change them both out before the other starts humming as well.

*Be sure to have a breaker bar for the axle nut along with some penetrating fluid & a hammer/mallet just in case the hubs are seized.*

Should be 10-20 mins each side.

I reuse the old nuts ! I have used new nut as well ! I re-torque them to about 250 ft . lbs .

Good Luck, Sonny
 
Thnaks guys,

Awesome Scallywag! Thanks for the detailed info and instruction PDF!

Hey I did do the math and if I was in the USA, I agree 110%. I was showing the Amazon price as an example of just how outrageous CAD to USA parts pricing is for identical items.
At rockauto one would cost Total CAD $97.50 ($74.19), this includes currency exchange, duties, taxes and shipping. so I think pressing in a new one would be less expensive and going to look at that route first.

Sonny has confirmed reusing the lock nut, anyone else? It sounds like you have to buy this separately and wondering if the original Lincoln part would be better? Why don't these use a nut and cotter pin? Rockauto has Durago brand for CAD$4.89 each:
DURAGO 29599000
Front; M24 x 2.0, Stake Nut
 
Hey wondering what you guys think of moog for the wheel hub?
Trying to find a machine shop here to press out and in the new bearing, is next to impossible - used to have a shop that did this but it was sold.
I know Moog was the "go to" years back for these cars and then read since Moog was bought out, their parts are hit or miss now. Oddly the cost is the same as rockauto, but its Moog, not Timken.
 
If having a choice and the price is within a few dollars either way I’d use a Timken every time. As stated Ford used them a lot as OEM.
Just an observation if taking it apart I’d thrown on new pads and rotors.
 
If having a choice and the price is within a few dollars either way I’d use a Timken every time. As stated Ford used them a lot as OEM.
Just an observation if taking it apart I’d thrown on new pads and rotors.

So I picked it up and the Moog part isn't Moog, it is Koyo branded inside a Moog box. Do you guys think any good? Bearing is stamped Koyo USA. Researching I found many saying this is a good bearing (one of the largest companies). Even saw one person say their Timken part came with Koyo bearings - this was on google, not this site and always value your guys opinion.

Timken here is $152.55 with our 13% tax. Not available at RockAuto - they are at Partsgeek but they don't deliver to Canada and 70 usd with USA shipping $10. The Moog was only 82 CAD w/tax, which is the first part I've saw in Canada that isn't twice as much or more as the same part in the USA.

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I've used koyo in the past with no problems
I like timken most but from rock auto I had 2 fail in a row timken box but the bearing was not stamped with there name
So possibly a fake?
 
Koyo is a very high quality OEM Japanese manufacturer. The Lexus, Toyotas, and Hondas ive had in the past were as smooth as glass and never had a bearing failure.
I’d run that bearing no problem.
 
So it was the hub. Any of you get a hub without grease? My new one looked like the old on the inside - didn't see much grease at all and can easily see the bearings.

While researching, i found this on another forum post 8 of 17 states:
Check them closely; The ones I just installed from advanced were not greased at all.
Front hub/bearing - do I need a puller to remove? 1992 - TCCoA Forums

Picked up a spindle nut at Ford they wanted $17 and sold it to me for $14. Part Source wanted $40 for the nut!
 
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So any of you get a new hub without grease? Or do they all look like pictured above?
 

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