couple of issues

erictw

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When last we chatted my 03 LS V8 was overheating, not passing emissions and blowing hot air in A/C mode. I fixed the emissions by registering the car outside of the area, checked the codes on the datc and read about 200 threads on here. I ran the car in the driveway for about 45 minutes and it did not overheat, checked the temps at various points and it did get up to a high of 217 degrees (the temps were taken with one of those guns) but it did not raise the gauge past midpoint or dump any coolant. While doing this I checked and the bleeder ran a good stream, no bubbles. I am guessing here that the thermostat had stuck and for some reason opened this time. That would explain the dealer returning it as fixed and it overheating the next day. Is it common (oh hell, possible) that the Tstat would fail intermittently? Since I will obviously need it eventually I ordered a new stat and all the associated plastics and am waiting patiently for them to arrive. In the meantime I have read several reports of changing out the plastic without pulling the manifold, one involved long nosed pliers and careful manipulation and one suggested trimming a small amount of the intake for clearance. Either of these sounds preferable to removing the intake- from my experience with this car, anything you touch will probably break or fail soon.
Next, the codes. I read 24-26, 27-98, and 12-63. I repeated the test and the 12-63 did not recur. I found no indication anywhere of what the 24-26 means. The dccv was replaced (yes, Motorcraft) before all this new stuff started, but it had been blowing hot air through the center vents since late last summer.
So, any ideas before my parts get here? Suggestions? Encouraging words?
thanks, Eric
 
B2426 - Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Open - Not your problem, not a big issue. Do your auto headlamps work correctly on auto?
B2798 - Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground this is usually the valve itself (even a new one can be bad), but it could also be a short in the wiring between the valve and the DATC, or even an internal DATC fault. Unplug the valve. Does it change to B2797 and B2799? If so, it's the valve.
B1263 - Panel Door Actuator Circuit Failure - It's not uncommon to get non-persistent failure codes for the air direction doors. It's safe to ignore as long as the air is going where it is suppose to.
 
one suggested trimming a small amount of the intake for clearance.

Gee... I wonder who that was? :rolleyes:

I don't remember it being a suggestion... but a decision.

FYI... seems an OEM thermostat will typically last around 85k miles. Most of the rest of the rest of the plastic parts... about 125k miles. This depends on maintenance intervals, (flush and fill)... along with driving conditions.
 
hahaha, car currently has 37,000 miles, if it wasn't so old it would still be in warranty, lol
 
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When last we chatted my 03 LS V8 was overheating, not passing emissions and blowing hot air in A/C mode. I fixed the emissions by registering the car outside of the area, checked the codes on the datc and read about 200 threads on here. I ran the car in the driveway for about 45 minutes and it did not overheat, checked the temps at various points and it did get up to a high of 217 degrees (the temps were taken with one of those guns) but it did not raise the gauge past midpoint or dump any coolant. While doing this I checked and the bleeder ran a good stream, no bubbles. I am guessing here that the thermostat had stuck and for some reason opened this time. That would explain the dealer returning it as fixed and it overheating the next day. Is it common (oh hell, possible) that the Tstat would fail intermittently? Since I will obviously need it eventually I ordered a new stat and all the associated plastics and am waiting patiently for them to arrive. In the meantime I have read several reports of changing out the plastic without pulling the manifold, one involved long nosed pliers and careful manipulation and one suggested trimming a small amount of the intake for clearance. Either of these sounds preferable to removing the intake- from my experience with this car, anything you touch will probably break or fail soon.
Next, the codes. I read 24-26, 27-98, and 12-63. I repeated the test and the 12-63 did not recur. I found no indication anywhere of what the 24-26 means. The dccv was replaced (yes, Motorcraft) before all this new stuff started, but it had been blowing hot air through the center vents since late last summer.
So, any ideas before my parts get here? Suggestions? Encouraging words?
thanks, Eric
I suggest bending a 8mm wrench or buying a brake bleeder wrench and yes use a long needle nose pliers to get those last few turns on the 8mm bolts on the T-Stat housing
 
When last we chatted my 03 LS V8 was overheating, not passing emissions and blowing hot air in A/C mode. I fixed the emissions by registering the car outside of the area, checked the codes on the datc and read about 200 threads on here. I ran the car in the driveway for about 45 minutes and it did not overheat, checked the temps at various points and it did get up to a high of 217 degrees (the temps were taken with one of those guns) but it did not raise the gauge past midpoint or dump any coolant. While doing this I checked and the bleeder ran a good stream, no bubbles. I am guessing here that the thermostat had stuck and for some reason opened this time. That would explain the dealer returning it as fixed and it overheating the next day. Is it common (oh hell, possible) that the Tstat would fail intermittently? Since I will obviously need it eventually I ordered a new stat and all the associated plastics and am waiting patiently for them to arrive. In the meantime I have read several reports of changing out the plastic without pulling the manifold, one involved long nosed pliers and careful manipulation and one suggested trimming a small amount of the intake for clearance. Either of these sounds preferable to removing the intake- from my experience with this car, anything you touch will probably break or fail soon.
Next, the codes. I read 24-26, 27-98, and 12-63. I repeated the test and the 12-63 did not recur. I found no indication anywhere of what the 24-26 means. The dccv was replaced (yes, Motorcraft) before all this new stuff started, but it had been blowing hot air through the center vents since late last summer.
So, any ideas before my parts get here? Suggestions? Encouraging words?
thanks, Eric
Nm I thought you had a 1st gen
 
B2426 - Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Open - Not your problem, not a big issue. Do your auto headlamps work correctly on auto?
B2798 - Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground this is usually the valve itself (even a new one can be bad), but it could also be a short in the wiring between the valve and the DATC, or even an internal DATC fault. Unplug the valve. Does it change to B2797 and B2799? If so, it's the valve.
B1263 - Panel Door Actuator Circuit Failure - It's not uncommon to get non-persistent failure codes for the air direction doors. It's safe to ignore as long as the air is going where it is suppose to.
 
OK, I did, they did, and I guess I'll be ordering another dccv. It never ends, does it?
 

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