Engine knocking sounds

You are not comparing gen 1 tensioners to gen 2 tensioners are you?
 
its in great shape so i cant imagine its anything too major

Condition doesn't matter if it has been abused and poorly maintained.

I think the coils showing bad are more of a symptom of bigger problems... than the problem themselves.

You said it rattles at startup. With no other issues, that is usually a sign of cam phaser issues... but could also be an oil pressure problem... depending on where the rattle at startup is coming from.

So what we have so far is...

- rattle at startup
- rattle/knock at 3k rpm
- excessive valvetrain noise
- secondary chains and tensioners (supposedly) replaced
- primary chains and tensioners are still original
- OIL PRESSURE UNKNOWN
- possible/probable issue with cam phasers
- possible issue with VVT solenoids... but no related codes reported
- no codes reported AT ALL... except (unconfirmed) maybe the coils.

Sounds to me like the the previous owner "drove it like he stole it" ... and when in SST mode... he never let off the gas when he hit the rev limiter... which on these cars is not actually a rev limiter, but instead an ignition cut off. It cuts off the engine at red line, and comes back in a few hundred rpm ... and will run back up to redline again... repeat, repeat, repeat.

Doing this will SEVERELY shock load the primary and secondary chains and tensioners... and the cam phasers... not to mention the whole bottom end of the engine.

IF the oil pressure checks out, and the noises are determined NOT to be in the bottom end of the engine... then I would say the primary chains and tensioners need replaced... along with the cam phasers.

This STILL doesn't explain how your "mechanic" ... "checked the valves" and determined they were ok. Did he do a real compression test? Did he check the lash between the cam and followers while the valve covers were off?
 
I can try and get the codes but ill have to use my buddies scamner again and write them down, tbey told me eCh code was for a different coil pack failure and two of them were catastrophic accprding to the reader, im going to borrow a compression tester from my boss this week and give that a whirl, how do i check the oil pressure on this car the easy way?
 
Condition doesn't matter if it has been abused and poorly maintained.

I think the coils showing bad are more of a symptom of bigger problems... than the problem themselves.

You said it rattles at startup. With no other issues, that is usually a sign of cam phaser issues... but could also be an oil pressure problem... depending on where the rattle at startup is coming from.

So what we have so far is...

- rattle at startup
- rattle/knock at 3k rpm
- excessive valvetrain noise
- secondary chains and tensioners (supposedly) replaced
- primary chains and tensioners are still original
- OIL PRESSURE UNKNOWN
- possible/probable issue with cam phasers
- possible issue with VVT solenoids... but no related codes reported
- no codes reported AT ALL... except (unconfirmed) maybe the coils.

Sounds to me like the the previous owner "drove it like he stole it" ... and when in SST mode... he never let off the gas when he hit the rev limiter... which on these cars is not actually a rev limiter, but instead an ignition cut off. It cuts off the engine at red line, and comes back in a few hundred rpm ... and will run back up to redline again... repeat, repeat, repeat.

Doing this will SEVERELY shock load the primary and secondary chains and tensioners... and the cam phasers... not to mention the whole bottom end of the engine.

IF the oil pressure checks out, and the noises are determined NOT to be in the bottom end of the engine... then I would say the primary chains and tensioners need replaced... along with the cam phasers.

This STILL doesn't explain how your "mechanic" ... "checked the valves" and determined they were ok. Did he do a real compression test? Did he check the lash between the cam and followers while the valve covers were off?
Also how do i check cam phasers??
 
From reading the 2nd link I provided... it appears you need a good scanner that can do "live data" so you can monitor the camshafts in real time.

That's the short answer.
 
As a quick test for the cam phasers... you could try unplugging the VCT solenoids and see if that helps. Those are the sensor looking things that stick out the top of the valve cover at the front.
 
And the following was inside one of the links I provided above.

"When the camshaft is not responding to the positions commanded by the PCM, the PCM should store a camshaft-related timing P0340-series error code. On V-block engines, a camshaft timing error on one bank might also result in P0300-series misfire codes for all cylinders on that bank."

So in the case of the OP's issue... both banks are showing misfires on all cylinders. I really don't think the plugs and/or the coils are the issue.

I wonder if he's found anything out yet?
 
The codes im gettung are p0350-p0358, they are for each coils primary / secondary circuit
And the following was inside one of the links I provided above.

"When the camshaft is not responding to the positions commanded by the PCM, the PCM should store a camshaft-related timing P0340-series error code. On V-block engines, a camshaft timing error on one bank might also result in P0300-series misfire codes for all cylinders on that bank."

So in the case of the OP's issue... both banks are showing misfires on all cylinders. I really don't think the plugs and/or the coils are the issue.

I wonder if he's found anything out yet?
 
So that would mean i need new coils then yea?

Coils (not the affordable ones, the Motorcraft ones)
-or-
PCM (damaged by cheap or old coils, can be repaired)
-or-
Wiring between the coils and the PCM

You can test the wiring fairly easily.
 
Coils (not the affordable ones, the Motorcraft ones)
-or-
PCM (damaged by cheap or old coils, can be repaired)
-or-
Wiring between the coils and the PCM

You can test the wiring fairly easily.
How do i check the wiring?
 
You check for opens and high resistance, and for shorts to other wires or ground. You only need a cheap multi-meter and a little know-how to use it. Of course, you have to disconnect all coils and the PCM to do the wiring tests.
 
You check for opens and high resistance, and for shorts to other wires or ground. You only need a cheap multi-meter and a little know-how to use it. Of course, you have to disconnect all coils and the PCM to do the wiring tests.
Okay i have a good multimeter, i want to test the coils, wiring and the pcm and see what i get, im also going to replace the old gas with some fresh 93 octane, i have a small feeling it might be knocking because it sat for close to 2 years so im thinking the gas is most likely bad
 
Can i check it myself?

How much do you know about digital electronics and field effect transistors? What kind of oscilloscope do you have? Signal generator? Ford scan tools? Engine simulator? ...
 
How much do you know about digital electronics and field effect transistors? What kind of oscilloscope do you have? Signal generator? Ford scan tools? Engine simulator? ...
Lol yea i probably shouldn't do it myself
 

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