How do you fix negative Camber and Caster in your rear

LSE_4_LYFE

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This was my last alignment. Has 6 month warranty. Which as y'all can see they didn't leave it in the green. They suggested camber bolts for the front. Which I hadn't heard of those until now. But I guess they go on lower control arms. But how do I fix rear? I need the rear torque tie rod and sway bar links. Would those fix it?
 
Unless you've been in a wreck, I feel like your rear control arms (probably lower, but I would do both) are worn out.
 
Now that I can read the numbers... doesn't look like anything to write home about. Sway bar links don't do anything for alignment. Rear tie rods only (directly) change toe. Since the Toe is spot on, I wouldn't worry much about 0.2° camber on the front and <1.5° on the rear. I can't see the unnoticeable additional wear on the tires being worth the cost of control arms if they're stable and tight
 
I think it got worse since then. Car feels unstable af. Hit a bump and it pulls right. Tires are wearing pretty bad.
 
Forgot to put the tire wear is on front. Car in back feels wobbly. But I think it's the shocks. Or could it be upper control arms?
 
Have all of the suspension and steering components checked out before spending money on an alignment. I have had garages align cars of mine which ended up having worn components at the time of alignment, which immediately turned the alignment into a waste of money. Unstable on bumps in my case was a bad lower ball joint that was trying to remove its own nut due to the ball being seized inside the ball joint. It was so bad that the car would move a half lane to the side on bridge seams at highway speed.
 
Or rear toe links... or rear lower control arm bushings.

The left rear lower control arm bushing closest to the differential is a common known failure point.

While you're under there looking around... check the bottom of the left coil spring for a broken tail.
 
Have all of the suspension and steering components checked out before spending money on an alignment. I have had garages align cars of mine which ended up having worn components at the time of alignment, which immediately turned the alignment into a waste of money. Unstable on bumps in my case was a bad lower ball joint that was trying to remove its own nut due to the ball being seized inside the ball joint. It was so bad that the car would move a half lane to the side on bridge seams at highway speed.
My car has that happen on bumps. My LS is a v6 stick shift. O'Reillys had no option for different size ball joint. But I heard sport LS uses 16mm. I put 14mm in. How I know if mine is sport? Which this time I'll order moog online.
 
My car has that happen on bumps. My LS is a v6 stick shift. O'Reillys had no option for different size ball joint. But I heard sport LS uses 16mm. I put 14mm in. How I know if mine is sport? Which this time I'll order moog online.
If you have a manual, you have the sport. But also, if you have a manual, that means that your car is between a 2000 and a 2002 which means that your car uses 14 mm ball joints. The size 14 mm is the size of the stud that the ball joint mounts to the control arm with, and I don't think there is a way to mix the sizes. And no, the sport or the non-sport has nothing to do with the ball joint size. It is the model year that makes the ball joint size determination. There were no manual transmission equipped LS produced after 2002.
 
If you have a manual, you have the sport. But also, if you have a manual, that means that your car is between a 2000 and a 2002 which means that your car uses 14 mm ball joints. The size 14 mm is the size of the stud that the ball joint mounts to the control arm with, and I don't think there is a way to mix the sizes. And no, the sport or the non-sport has nothing to do with the ball joint size. It is the model year that makes the ball joint size determination. There were no manual transmission equipped LS produced after 2002.
Thank you. So that answers that question. I don't get what is throwing off my steering so bad. Had it aligned and just in a couple days the wheels are towed out and I'm back where I started.
 
My 02 has 16mm, as do many other gen 1 sports. Is it a clear cut trim/ball joint relationship? No, but Sports are typically 16mm in gen 1
 
Thank you. So that answers that question. I don't get what is throwing off my steering so bad. Had it aligned and just in a couple days the wheels are towed out and I'm back where I started.

It's possible that they didn't tighten the jam nuts properly and the inners are unscrewing although that would make it toe in. I have had this happen before.
 
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And no, the sport or the non-sport has nothing to do with the ball joint size. It is the model year that makes the ball joint size determination.

Exactly. The switch from 14mm to 16mm happened sometime in 2002. So anyone who has a 2002 LS... needs to measure the ball joint stud before ordering parts.
 
My 02 has 16mm, as do many other gen 1 sports. Is it a clear cut trim/ball joint relationship? No, but Sports are typically 16mm in gen 1
Is there a way to know if mine is supposed to have 16mm. I unfortunately already tossed stock ones.
 
Adjusted tie rods last night. Toed them in a little. While driving, the tires go back to toed out. Somehow they loosen back up. I'm taking wheels off today and going to check tightness of everything. Goin to order all new suspension parts soon. Is there a list on here on suspension part numbers @joegr ? I tried serching but couldn't find anything.
 
Is there a way to know if mine is supposed to have 16mm. I unfortunately already tossed stock ones

Use a tape measure, and measure the non tapered part of the hole in the control arm... where the stud would stick through.

16mm is around 5/8"
15mm is around 9/16"
13mm is around 1/2"

So 14mm would be between 1/2" and 9/16".
 
Have wat I'm supposed to14mm. Bad nut I guess one one. Found it loose today. Goin to order Moog one's. Should have at first but I was tryin to save. Moving to another state an mny is limited. Ty so much for the help.
 
The Moogs come with a green thread locker... and have a hex in the top of the stud for an Allen socket.

It's still a bear to get tightened down. I used a crows foot wrench on a ratchet... and on the torque wrench too. It takes a while.
 
If your ball joint seizes up internally, turning the steering puts enough force to override a brand new nylock nut torqued to 110 lb/ft. I bought mev-whatever-co new steering knuckles from Rock Autoparts and within 6 months the nuts were coming loose. Sure enough, the balls were stuck metal on metal inside the ball joints. Silly me, I bought another because $75 for whole new steering knuckles and ball joints, and the same thing happened! I went to moog, and eventually had one get sticky, so I stuck my hypodermic grease gun needle right through the boots and loaded them with new grease. That worked pretty well! If you have those nuts going loose and have put on new nylocks, you may be able to salvage a few more miles by injecting your own grease.

And that green "thread locker," which comes with the moog problem solver ball joints, isn't that used on the ball joint to steering knuckle fitment?
 
No. It is an actual thread locker... so the nut doesn't back off.

Blue - low strength... easy to remove fastener.

Green - medium strength... difficult to remove fastener.

Red - high strength... heat is required to remove fastener.
 
OBTW when i lowered my LS, i had to adjust front and rear camber to compensate. Front Ford/Lincoln camber/caster bolts are expensive, $75 ea times 4. Car is set up already to use them. WRT rear, first off, lower control bushings were shot at about 75,000 miles. Could not buy bushings at the time, had to replace whole arms, expensive. Since car was lowered, i had to slot holes to get camber in check, even though most would say not to do. I had no problems other than a pain in the ass to align myself.
 

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