Speedometer stuck on 160mph

[00LincLS]

Has anyone had any problems with their speedometer either not working, working periodically or stuck at either 0 or 160mph? And what would be the fixes for it? First thought was either a bad speed sensor or second maybe a broken piece in the speedometer itself. Hoping for an easy fix instead of pulling the whole dash out.

 

[joegr]

You'd be getting ABS and other errors if it was a sensor issue. The ABS module determines the speed based on the wheel speed sensors. It reports that as digital data to the other modules in the car, including the instrument cluster. It's very likely a bad servo in the cluster, or a servo driver fault.

 

[00LincLS]

So what’s the best way to repair it?

 

[joegr]

So what’s the best way to repair it?

That depends on the exact fault?

If you have to ask, then you would probably aren't going to be able to repair the electronics. That leave replacing the whole cluster. To do that, you will need a good scan tool (like Forscan) and at least two working keys to be able to marry the new/used cluster to the PCM for PATS to work. The car won't even start before you do that.

 

[FDR]

as I recall, mileage is stored in the cluster and forscan can only turn mileage UP, not down

 

[joegr]

as I recall, mileage is stored in the cluster and forscan can only turn mileage UP, not down

At the current age and value of these cars, is anyone really that concerned about the odometer?

 

[MrWilson]

@OP
I work for a remanufacturer and one of my product lines is instrument clusters. The stepper motor that controls the speedo display has failed. I doubt you do but if you have the ability to soldier on a printed circuit board (different than soldiering wires) i can shoot you the right motor for like $5-10. Otherwise you’re looking at sending your cluster out for repair as your easiest option. I don’t currently have the LS cluster in my lineup so I’d recommend looking at a company called CircuitBoarsMedic. He doesn’t have it listed either but give him a call he’ll have no problem fixing it. I’m guessing the cost will be around $170

 

[FDR]

I've opened both an 02 cluster and an 04 cluster. The motor has 4 pins that stick through a tabbed hole. No soldering needed. The motor is screwed to the clear lens behind the gauge faces

 

[joegr]

I've opened both an 02 cluster and an 04 cluster. The motor has 4 pins that stick through a tabbed hole. No soldering needed. The motor is screwed to the clear lens behind the gauge faces

Sounds like the cluster on my Ranger. While it might be the driver electronics on the board, it would be worth the effort to replace the servo in the semi-likely case that it is the sole problem.

 

[FDR]

Before I get into this, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before removing the cluster. I've seen multiple people get stuck in PATS lockdown

I have a disassembled 04 cluster. The servos look the same as when I opened my 02 cluster. PM me if you want to buy one for less than a whole cluster. You'll want something like Forscan+adapter+Windows laptop to make sure you align the needle correctly because they're not indexed. Admittedly, the first time I placed the needles for an illumination color change, I used a regular OBDii scanner app on my phone to try to place the needle correctly while doing a 10mph circle (per obdii speed). I checked it on the road and it was close enough at 60 (there's always a little error on the high side from the factory). Obviously, this means putting the cluster back in without the outer lens, then taking it back out again to reassemble it fully.

For anyone else reading, I placed the temp needle so it drooped dead center when Torque reported temp at 190-230 (it's all dead center in that range), read the obd rpm as I held the gas to bring it to 2000 rpm, and filled the tank to place the gas needle. I have the v8 with the message center and DTE calculation, so I wasn't too worried about fuel accuracy.

Forscan can command the needles to a certain percentage without running. 50% should place the speedo at 80 and the fuel at half. I'd slide through percentages on the tach to check it after guessing 50% is 3500rpm. Maybe run the car and read obdii rpm to see if it matches at 2k or so anyway. The temp gauge is buffered and off center. IIRC, 35-50% on the Forscan slider stays at dead center and maxes out at 75% or something. I know the gauge is heavily buffered and numbed, but I was surprised the slider was, too

Or just run an OBDII app on your phone with an adapter...

 

[00LincLS]

Thank you this was actually helpful! I do actually have the skills to do this and you didn’t assume because I asked a question that I didn’t. Sounds like it’s some what of a common problem in the LS’. I’m slowly bringing the car back to it's original glory and just noticed that the needle sometimes works or sometimes sits at 0 or 160. Thanks for all the useful information and the breakdown.

Before I get into this, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before removing the cluster. I've seen multiple people get stuck in PATS lockdown

I have a disassembled 04 cluster. The servos look the same as when I opened my 02 cluster. PM me if you want to buy one for less than a whole cluster. You'll want something like Forscan+adapter+Windows laptop to make sure you align the needle correctly because they're not indexed. Admittedly, the first time I placed the needles for an illumination color change, I used a regular OBDii scanner app on my phone to try to place the needle correctly while doing a 10mph circle (per obdii speed). I checked it on the road and it was close enough at 60 (there's always a little error on the high side from the factory). Obviously, this means putting the cluster back in without the outer lens, then taking it back out again to reassemble it fully.

For anyone else reading, I placed the temp needle so it drooped dead center when Torque reported temp at 190-230 (it's all dead center in that range), read the obd rpm as I held the gas to bring it to 2000 rpm, and filled the tank to place the gas needle. I have the v8 with the message center and DTE calculation, so I wasn't too worried about fuel accuracy.

Forscan can command the needles to a certain percentage without running. 50% should place the speedo at 80 and the fuel at half. I'd slide through percentages on the tach to check it after guessing 50% is 3500rpm. Maybe run the car and read obdii rpm to see if it matches at 2k or so anyway. The temp gauge is buffered and off center. IIRC, 35-50% on the Forscan slider stays at dead center and maxes out at 75% or something. I know the gauge is heavily buffered and numbed, but I was surprised the slider was, too

Or just run an OBDII app on your phone with an adapter...

 

[00LincLS]

@OP
I work for a remanufacturer and one of my product lines is instrument clusters. The stepper motor that controls the speedo display has failed. I doubt you do but if you have the ability to soldier on a printed circuit board (different than soldiering wires) i can shoot you the right motor for like $5-10. Otherwise you’re looking at sending your cluster out for repair as your easiest option. I don’t currently have the LS cluster in my lineup so I’d recommend looking at a company called CircuitBoarsMedic. He doesn’t have it listed either but give him a call he’ll have no problem fixing it. I’m guessing the cost will be around $170

Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll look into him as well.

 

[00LincLS]

I've opened both an 02 cluster and an 04 cluster. The motor has 4 pins that stick through a tabbed hole. No soldering needed. The motor is screwed to the clear lens behind the gauge faces

Thanks for the information. I do have all the materials to solder things but as you’ve described there may not be a need to solder anything if the 00 cluster is exact or similar to the 02 cluster.