Transmission fluid change failure

AbeLS2005

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I was on the freeway and accelerated heavily to change lanes. The transmission acted like it downshifted, then the engine just began bouncing off red line. Once I got off the freeway I slowed down and accelerated again in lower gears and it seemed fine. Then only first and second worked on manual shifting, no 3rd gear or higher and no reverse. I changed the fluid but only got about a gallon out and it only held a gallon of new fluid. My problem is the same. Ran it through the gears like I should. Third has a delayed engagement and reverse engages but doesn’t pull. Anyone have any advice they could share. I’m stressed and desparate. 3.0L Auto.
 
You change the fluid to prevent problems, not to solve them.

That's about all the fluid you will get out if you do a drain and refill instead of a full fluid exchange. Ford recommends a full exchange.

Did you correctly check the fluid level after refill? (car level, transmission warmed up, cycle through the gears just before checking, engine running)

Check engine light?
 
I know it wontI was hoping it was just low fluid, figured I might have an unseen leak. No check engine light and I cycled the gears, giving each one a few seconds before shifting. 3rd is the only gear that hesitates to engage and 1st and 2nd are the only two that pull. I can’t really afford a full fluid flush. Guess I’ll just have to trial and error this damn thing
 
I know it wontI was hoping it was just low fluid, figured I might have an unseen leak. No check engine light and I cycled the gears, giving each one a few seconds before shifting. 3rd is the only gear that hesitates to engage and 1st and 2nd are the only two that pull. I can’t really afford a full fluid flush. Guess I’ll just have to trial and error this damn thing
One must be really really technical when describing the different definitions that describes the different services that our transmissions need and receive ...I would advise against going into a Indy or Big Box Shop and ask for a Transmission Flush...the Lincoln LS recommends a FLUID EXCHANGE ....big difference ...be specific if you bring the LS into a shop
 
Uhhh ok, thanks Yoda.
Tools you will need:
8mm Allen hex for filler plug on back of tailcase
T30 Torx for standpipe plug
7/8’’ or 22mm box end for drain plug
18mm box end for turning engine crankshaft
4mm Allen hex for torque converter
5 gallon bucket or big drain pan
7.5 quarts Mercon V transmission fluid
8 ft length of 3/8’’ ID clear Tygon tubing

You need to get the car up high, like on a safe lift or tall sturdy
jack stands, or drive it over a pit. Not just the front end on
ramps, because it must be LEVEL. High enough and sturdy enough that
you feel safe getting under it with the engine running.
The filler plug is at the back of the rear extension housing to the
right of the driveshaft. Remove the filler plug using the 8mm Allen
hex. There is a rubber sealant on the threads.
Start the engine and let the trans oil warm up to 100F or 36C.
Leave the engine running.
Place the pan under the drain plug.
The outer drain plug is actually a stand pipe inside the pan. The
correct level of fluid is to the top of this stand pipe with the
engine running.
Unlike an engine, the trans fluid level is checked with the engine
running so the fluid is at its lowest level condition.
Remove the inner drain plug using the T30 Torx. There is a rubber
sealant on the threads. You may have to hold the outer drain plug
using the 7/8’’ or 22mm box end.
If oil pours out the stand pipe, it was too full. If nothing comes
out, and you only want to fill it, proceed to the filling step.
DRAINING
If you want to change all the fluid, shut the engine off.
Remove the outer drain plug using the 7/8’’ or 22mm box end. About
3.5 quarts will drain out here. Replace the rubber o-ring on the
plug.
Pry out the 1.5’’ 38mm diameter rubber plug in the bottom of the
bell housing for access to the torque convertor drain plug.
Turn the engine over with the 18mm box end on the front end of the
crankshaft until you see the torque convertor drain plug through
the access hole. Remove the 18mm wrench now so you won’t forget.
Remove the torque convertor drain plug using the 4mm Allen hex.
About 4 quarts will drain out here. Replace the rubber o-ring on
the plug.
If you are changing the filter and/or gasket, remove the pan now.
Check the pan sealing face for flatness. Sometimes the bolt holes
are dimpled out from overtightening, so hammer them back down level.
After the oil has pretty well drained, replace the torque convertor
drain plug, rubber cover plug, filter, gasket, pan, outer drain
plug and inner plug.

FILLING
Remove the cap from one Mercon V quart container. Drill a hole in
the cap somewhat smaller than the tubing, a nice round hole. Insert
the free end of the tubing into the cap about an inch. It should
fit tightly in the hole.
Feed the other end of the 3/8’’ Tygon tubing over the exhaust heat
shield and into the filler hole in the trans. Screw the cap back on
the bottle.
Hold the bottle up by the door, higher than the trans, turn it
upside down, and squeeze the bottle. Watch the oil flow into the
trans. To empty the bottle, you will have to turn it right side up
and unscrew the cap a bit to allow air in a few times. There are
pumps on the market that fit these quart bottles if you don’t care
to squeeze them.
After you have 5 or 6 quarts in it, start the engine.
Let it run a few minutes to let the oil warm up and get pumped into
the torque convertor.
Now you can remove the inner drain plug with the T30 Torx.
With the engine running, keep adding fluid until it runs out the
inner drain plug.
Shift the trans through all the gears, including the J-gate manual
positions.
Add more fluid until it runs out the stand pipe.
Replace the inner drain plug with the T30 Torx.
Remove the Tygon tubing and replace the filler plug with the 8mm
Allen hex.
Shut off the engine, and let the car down.

These words are stamped into the bottom of the pan:
‘‘Fluid check - run engine until fluid flow from inner plug stops.
Add Mercon V at extension housing until fluid flow resumes.’’
 
Uhhh ok, thanks Yoda.
As Joe said Fluid exchange is preventing this from happening ...but if you do decide to throw a HailMary ....add some Lucus Transmission leak stop ...it might thicken up the fluid
 
One must be really really technical when describing the different definitions that describes the different services that our transmissions need and receive ...I would advise against going into a Indy or Big Box Shop and ask for a Transmission Flush...the Lincoln LS recommends a FLUID EXCHANGE ....big difference ...be specific if you bring the LS into a shop
I've had nothing but bad servicing by the local Ford/Lincoln dealers here ... "your car is too old" ... my '97 with 88,000 miles on it. Are there other sensible options other than dealers for full servicing?
 
... Are there other sensible options other than dealers for full servicing?

A good local independent shop with Jaguar experience would likely work well. Avoid all the chain shops, especially All Automatics Must Come Out (They will say you need a full rebuild, charge for that, but put a used junkyard transmission in).
 
AAMCO used to be a good rebuilder chain 30 plus years ago. They even sold parts OTC. I went in one time in my late teens for a front pump bushing and seal, for a semi-brainless 727 build I was doing on my '78 Dodge Magnum.
 
Abel,

I have no personal proof of this... but according to members on the Ford Explorer forum who have suffered the same or similar issues... they are saying that the Seafoam brand of transmission "fixer" actually works.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Trans-Tu...MIq_TW0bHp4QIVlgMqCh0STQF5EAQYASABEgKMPPD_BwE

FYI, (if you didn't know), the Explorer and LS transmissions are very similar. But first you need to make sure the trans fluid level is up where it should be, before adding the seafoam.

There is no gaurantee the Seafoam will fix it... but by high recommendation elsewhere it seems like your best shot to avoid a major rebuild.
 
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Mine is at a Mr. Transmission right now. They replaced the solenoid then told me that didn’t fix it and the trans would need to be pulled and inspected. They said the trans still isn’t pulling.
 
Well at this point you have nothing to lose... so go to your LPS, or Walmart, or any big box store and buy a can of the Seafoam Trans Tune... and have it pumped onto the transmission.

As I said before... people over on the Explorer forum were having similar problems. The suspect was the sprag clutch in the transmission... and somehow the Seafoam Tans Tune helped

For an explanation how a sprag clutch works... read the following... and it will explain the symptoms you are experiencing.

Transmission Components: Examining the One Way Clutch
 
Mine is at a Mr. Transmission right now. They replaced the solenoid then told me that didn’t fix it and the trans would need to be pulled and inspected. They said the trans still isn’t pulling.

Chain shop, bad idea. This will end badly...
 
I was going to mention that... but figured he's suffering enough already.

Now I guess desperate times call for deep pockets.
 
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My Mechanic who runs a independent shop always contracts transmission work to specialized transmission techs...I agree AAMCO and other Big Box Chains stay in business because of the 20% who they sucker in ...What do you do ...eh
 
River City Transmissions in Portland Oregon is a shop which FINALLY knew the correct fluid, procedure etc. And only charged $90 in labor to do a complete drain and replace with 14 qts of MERCON V. FINALLY IT IS CORRECT!!! First shop screwed me and filled it with 8 qts of synthetic bulk ... which did knock lose a little crap in the 500 miles the synthetic was in it. Filter caught it all. Good for another 5,000 miles at least. Darn MERCON is $13 a quart for the high quality stuff!!!!
 
Shops have to get their mark up. On the upside the cost of the filter wasn't bad and the labor was way less than expected. Overall it came out less overall than the previous shop which didn't do a complete drain and used bulk synthetic. And I made a new contact for transmission work on my other toy as well. So it was a good day.
And Mark is back in his garage with no leaks, full of MERCON V, and so all is well so far.
 
Mine is at a Mr. Transmission right now. They replaced the solenoid then told me that didn’t fix it and the trans would need to be pulled and inspected. They said the trans still isn’t pulling.

Here's an option; buy my 03 with 53k miles for $5500...ha!

River City Transmissions in Portland Oregon is a shop which FINALLY knew the correct fluid, procedure etc. And only charged $90 in labor to do a complete drain and replace with 14 qts of MERCON V. FINALLY IT IS CORRECT!!! First shop screwed me and filled it with 8 qts of synthetic bulk ... which did knock lose a little crap in the 500 miles the synthetic was in it. Filter caught it all. Good for another 5,000 miles at least. Darn MERCON is $13 a quart for the high quality stuff!!!!

Kerrigan, $90 is cheap if they hooked it up to a flush machine. I just paid that to drop the pan. I paid for the six qts. of V and the filter.
 
Here's an option; buy my 03 with 53k miles for $5500...ha!



Kerrigan, $90 is cheap if they hooked it up to a flush machine. I just paid that to drop the pan. I paid for the six qts. of V and the filter.
They dropped the trans pan, replaced the filter, drained the converter and filled it with 14 qts of STP MERCON V. No flushing needed, which we don't like to do anyway unless all cruded up.
And I didn't have to do anything but drink good coffee, read a little, and BS with the front-end staff for a couple of hours.
 

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