2002 Lincoln ls v8 water pump?

Mecca

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Uncle Replaced cracked radiator,thermostat housing and coolant flange. Car did good for one week.

Then coolant start to bubble and steam and flow out of plastic coolant reservoir. I can hear the bubbling as I'm driving. When parked it will leak and flow down hill.

System was then bled and worked fine for 1 day. Next day car over heats constantly worse than ever, even on the cold days just to pull off!

I did notice tiny drips toward the middle of car like rain drops just a little not near repaired thermostat housing, so uncle suggest it's water pump? Any clues on this please!?? Help
 
Maybe, but unlikely.
Sounds like you are still missing the two radiator hoses, the degas bottle (must use OEM), and the crossover assembly.
You also need to verify that your hydraulic cooling fan is operating correctly. If it doesn't sound like a just engine when the car is overheating, it isn't working correctly.
 
Wow ,thank you for the reply.
He had to do a crappy job, obviously!

I saw him install the radiator through the top instead of through the bottom (like I assume you should.?) But he told me he's been working on cars for years,so sit back relax.. Maybe he ruined all of that in the process.

Yes my hydraulic cooling fan is actually working. That was the first thing to be checked.but it's not as loud as it used to be.
 
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Maybe, but unlikely.
Sounds like you are still missing the two radiator hoses, the degas bottle (must use OEM), and the crossover assembly.
You also need to verify that your hydraulic cooling fan is operating correctly. If it doesn't sound like a just engine when the car is overheating, it isn't working correctly.
Is the cross over assembly the coolant flange I mentioned.. maybe I used wrong word. It's a tube with two outlet and tubes connection? Well I have a pic attached.

Screenshot_20190330-183000.png
 
Did you replace the upper and lower radiator hoses? In fact have you ever replaced any of the hoses? I would suspect there is a hose that is in bad shape that is allowing the air to get in slowly causing this problem or some of them other plastic parts are starting to crack. That is why most people replace practically everything in the coolant system at the same time.
 
Did you replace the upper and lower radiator hoses? In fact have you ever replaced any of the hoses? I would suspect there is a hose that is in bad shape that is allowing the air to get in slowly causing this problem or some of them other plastic parts are starting to crack. That is why most people replace practically everything in the coolant system at the same time.

Uncle purchased everything he claimed needed. All the plastic parts had to be replaced after radiator because of it dry rotting and breaking when taking off the cap and outing on radiator hoses.

Plastic pieces are brand new. (No signs of cracks or anything)

One thing I know for sure is that the hoses for the radiator are the same exact hoses,he didnt buy those or suggest them.
 
Uncle purchased everything he claimed needed. All the plastic parts had to be replaced after radiator because of it dry rotting and breaking when taking off the cap and outing on radiator hoses.

Plastic pieces are brand new. (No signs of cracks or anything)

One thing I know for sure is that the hoses for the radiator are the same exact hoses,he didnt buy those or suggest them.
When one coolant part has rotting from inside out ...ALL the rest are either rotting or will be shortly...ppl tend to be in denial of this FACT but it's inevitable that ALL plastic coolant parts will fail eventually ...therefore here is a list of all the parts you need Motorcraft KM4402 Upper Radiator Hose
Motorcraft KM4565 Lower Radiator Hose
Coolant Outlet Pipe (crossover tube) XW4Z-8A520-AF
Fel-Pro ES 72738 Water Crossover Mount Gasket Set
URO Parts NCE2247ADKIT-PRM Upgraded Aluminum T-Stat Housing Kit or
OEM Plastic Part Numbers XW4Z-8592-BD & XW4Z-8592-AA
MOTORCRAFT Thermostat RT1154
Thermostat Housing Gasket XW4Z-8590-BA
URO Parts C2C34318 Expansion Tank, 1 Pack or OEM Part Number XW4Z-8A080-AA
Motorcraft RS-527 Radiator Pressure Cap
Motorcraft KM4566 Water Outlet Housing
Coolant Recovery/Engine Coolant Recovery Tank Hose XW4Z-8C289-FA
Auxiliary Coolant Pump 1W4Z-18D473-AA
MOTORCRAFT PW448 Water Pump
MOTORCRAFT RAD31 Radiator
DCCV (Heater Valve) MOTORCRAFT YG355 or Bosch W0133-1799792
 
When one coolant part has rotting from inside out ...ALL the rest are either rotting or will be shortly...ppl tend to be in denial of this FACT but it's inevitable that ALL plastic coolant parts will fail eventually ...therefore here is a list of all the parts you need Motorcraft KM4402 Upper Radiator Hose
Motorcraft KM4565 Lower Radiator Hose
Coolant Outlet Pipe (crossover tube) XW4Z-8A520-AF
Fel-Pro ES 72738 Water Crossover Mount Gasket Set
URO Parts NCE2247ADKIT-PRM Upgraded Aluminum T-Stat Housing Kit or
OEM Plastic Part Numbers XW4Z-8592-BD & XW4Z-8592-AA
MOTORCRAFT Thermostat RT1154
Thermostat Housing Gasket XW4Z-8590-BA
URO Parts C2C34318 Expansion Tank, 1 Pack or OEM Part Number XW4Z-8A080-AA
Motorcraft RS-527 Radiator Pressure Cap
Motorcraft KM4566 Water Outlet Housing
Coolant Recovery/Engine Coolant Recovery Tank Hose XW4Z-8C289-FA
Auxiliary Coolant Pump 1W4Z-18D473-AA
MOTORCRAFT PW448 Water Pump
MOTORCRAFT RAD31 Radiator
DCCV (Heater Valve) MOTORCRAFT YG355 or Bosch W0133-1799792


THANK YOU!
 
...One thing I know for sure is that the hoses for the radiator are the same exact hoses,he didnt buy those or suggest them.

Both of the main radiator hoses have plastic sections in the middle. All the plastic degrades at the same time. Those need to go. I still haven't heard any mention of the degas bottle.
 
Both of the main radiator hoses have plastic sections in the middle. All the plastic degrades at the same time. Those need to go. I still haven't heard any mention of the degas bottle.
Thank you, and no he did not replace the Degas bottle at all
 
saw him install the radiator through the top instead of through the bottom (like I assume you should.?)

I did mine through the top with no issues. You just have to move a couple extra things gently out of the way.

If the drip is middle front... it sounds like one of the o-rings isn't seated properly. Or maybe some bolts aren't torqued properly.

Most all cooling system bolts require 89 inch pounds of torque, (not 89 foot pounds). These are just plastic pieces after all.
 
Through the top is okay, but through the bottom is easier, even if you only have it up on ramps.
 
IIRC.... I didn't want to monkey with the trans cooler lines... so I disconnected and pulled the DCCV and aux coolant flow pump to come out the top.

It seems I was having problems finding the proper angle/orientation for bottom extraction.
 
No need to mess with the transmission cooler lines. I just moved the cooler slightly on both. Nothing to disconnect.
 
I did mine through the top with no issues. You just have to move a couple extra things gently out of the way.

If the drip is middle front... it sounds like one of the o-rings isn't seated properly. Or maybe some bolts aren't torqued properly.

Most all cooling system bolts require 89 inch pounds of torque, (not 89 foot pounds). These are just plastic pieces after all.
Ok, thank you
 

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