"05 LS no heat

kkiley

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Replaced my DCCV valve in my car. Bled the system at least 5 times. Drove it home tonight with the temp gauge fully warmed up. Not a bit of heat.
This is not going to work with living in the midwest.

K
 
Replaced my DCCV valve in my car. Bled the system at least 5 times. Drove it home tonight with the temp gauge fully warmed up. Not a bit of heat.
This is not going to work with living in the midwest.

K[/QUOTE
Just curious did you replace your thermostat with new Motor Craft brand Thermostat? Did you hook up all the hoses properly? What brand of Temp control valve (DCCV) did you use?
 
Replaced my DCCV valve in my car. Bled the system at least 5 times. Drove it home tonight with the temp gauge fully warmed up. Not a bit of heat.
This is not going to work with living in the midwest.

K

Just curious did you replace your thermostat with new Motor Craft brand Thermostat? Did you hook up all the hoses properly? What brand of Temp control valve (DCCV) did you use?
 
It's an '05 with the V-8. I learned my lesson with the PCV valve, so I bought the Motorcraft DCCV. I did not replace the thermostat. Eventually, I do get heat, but it is well after the gauge shows it fully warmed up. It used to start blowing warm air long before the gauge was showing hot.
 
It's an '05 with the V-8. I learned my lesson with the PCV valve, so I bought the Motorcraft DCCV. I did not replace the thermostat. Eventually, I do get heat, but it is well after the gauge shows it fully warmed up. It used to start blowing warm air long before the gauge was showing hot.

There's no PCV valve on the V8.

You shouldn't have to bleed it but once. Did you exactly follow the gen 2 bleed procedure, with the car level or nose pointed down slightly? (Nose pointed up makes it very difficult to bleed.)

Good heat driving, poor heat at idle? Could be the aux pump.
When were all the rest of the plastic cooling system parts replaced?
 
Sorry, EGR. I had just woke up. I was doing it with the nose up. i will give that a try. And speed or rpm doesn't make a difference. Eventually, I do get heat. And the temp sensors do work.
Let me try bleeding it the correct way.
 
I had my thermostat changed in 2014 on my wife's 04 LS8. Everything was fine.

Thanksgiving eve, car had great heat. Today, no heat. Car temp is right where it should be.

I hope this isn't an HVAC Control Head issue. (I went through this once before with my 03 Bird. It was a real pain.) LS has 62K miles. The Bird only had 22K miles.
 
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I filled and bled the system last night. Working good now. I hope I don't have any leaks, but it is holding pressure. Watching the garage floor for any signs of drippage.
 
I had my thermostat changed in 2014 on my wife's 04 LS8. Everything was fine.

Thanksgiving eve, car had great heat. Today, no heat. Car temp is right where it should be.

I hope this isn't an HVAC Control Head issue. (I went through this once before with my 03 Bird. It was a real ****fest.) LS has 62K miles. The Bird only had 22K miles.

There's an easy test to rule out the DATC and its sensors completely. Unplug the electrical connector at the DCCV. With it unplugged, you should get full heat on both sides, all the time (once the engine is warm enough).

If you don't get good heat with it unplugged, then either both valves are stuck closed, or you have air in the cooling system from cracks in one or more of the other parts that you should have replaced when the thermostat was replaced.

DATC self test:
Front Panel DATC Module Self-Test (On-Demand Diagnostic Trouble Codes — DTCs)

On-demand DTCs are those that are reported by an ECU when a failure is detected while executing a diagnostic test. For the DATC module this means that all faults (hard) that occur while the module is conducting a self-test shall be reported as an on-demand DTC.

  • The DATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages such as engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. The diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
  • The vehicle interior temperature should be between 0-32°C (32-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false temperature sensor DTCs may be displayed.
The DATC module self-test through the front panel display:

  • can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
  • is entered by pressing the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within 2 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
  • concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given.
  • reports individual on-demand DTCs as 4-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).
  • will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test.
  • will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.
  • will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.
To exit the self-test, press the DEFROST button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed, DTCs will continue to be displayed.

Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
 
I added some anti freeze today. (Tough to see the "fill to here" line.)

Bingo. Got some heat. While driving, got warm air. Let the car idle for a few minutes, air temp got warmer.

Try it again tomorrow.
 

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