New LS owner… already wrecked her!

[Olaf]

We all knew the lower arm was messed...so what I hear you saying is the lower control arm ball joint towards the front won’t fit into slot?

Yeah, the slots are too close together. I was out of daylight earlier. I’ll take a video in the am before work and show the actual problem better.

 

[Broseph]

We all knew the lower arm was messed...so what I hear you saying is the lower control arm ball joint towards the front won’t fit into slot?

Looks like the subframe is actually what is bent where the LCA attaches, not the ball joint.

The problem I could see is you having issues with alignment even if you get the frame bent enough to insert the LCA. Probably a job for a frame shop, but others might have a better idea on how to fix

 

[GreyWisent]

The front LCA attaches to the Radiator Crossmember at the front and the Engine Crossmember at the back, as illustrated here:
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

This article describes the role of each of those components:
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

So you're saying that the front is the one that's bent? Are you certain that the back isn't bent too? If you insert it into the front, it won't fit in the back and vice versa, so it might be difficult to tell because of this relativity.

If you say the front is more messed up, I would look for a radiator crossmember at a junk yard and change that myself. Then see if the LCA fits and take it in for an alignment check. These look to be the instructions: 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

The engine crossmember looks to be a bit more work, and you'll have to support the engine: 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

I have never dealt with frame work personally, so take my advice with a grain of salt. Hopefully someone else has better insight.

Good luck. I feel your pain.

 

[Olaf]

Thanks Grey, that was helpful.

Here’s the promised video. I’m not sure if you can tell on the video, but it looks like the radiator crossMember is bent. I’ll have Tuesday off and I can go to the junkyard then.

GoPro Splice

 

[Olaf]

Well, I went to the junkyard today, but I didn’t have the right bits to remove the bolts! So I’ll have to go back after the holidays, prolly a week from now. Stay tuned for more drama from Lizzie!

 

[RigsLS]

Bah, for some reason I had thought that the American taillights were always all red and the split ones were euro and Japanese.

00-02 = 1st GEN had all red 'ribbed' tail lights. Even the limited 02 LSE's did so.

to have clear top, red bottom (two tone) on a 1st GEN is considered EURO two tone.

03-06 = 2nd GEN has all 'smooth' standard clear top, red bottom.
(which BTW look awesome covered in some 'smoked' Lamin-x film)

in 04, for the 2nd GEN, amongst the standard LS'es,
they released a limited amount of LSE's which sported all red 'smooth' rear tails.

Best of luck with repairs on that front end.




.

 

[Broseph]

00-02 = 1st GEN had all red 'ribbed' tail lights. Even the limited 02 LSE's did so.

View attachment 828571002


to have clear top, red bottom (two tone) on a 1st GEN is considered EURO two tone.

View attachment 828571003

View attachment 828571004



03-06 = 2nd GEN has all 'smooth' standard clear top, red bottom.
(which BTW look awesome covered in some 'smoked' Lamin-x film)

View attachment 828571005


in 04, for the 2nd GEN, amongst the standard LS'es,
they released a limited amount of LSE's which sported all red 'smooth' rear tails.

View attachment 828571006

View attachment 828571007

View attachment 828571008




Best of luck with repairs on that front end.




.

As a Gen I owner my LS dream is to have a set of the EUro two tones with Lamin-X. It is my unicorn

 

[RigsLS]

Sorry, don't have a complete set,
just the inner lid mounted euro two tones. (1st GEN)

 

[Olaf]

Hey, guys. Well, it’s taken Far longer than expected, but I’ve finally gotten everything done. Well, mostly.

I still need to deal with the wheel, and find where I put those two lug nuts! But replacing the subframe and suspension is complete. I do have some more pictures, and I’ll do a final post-mortem of this process when I have some time.

For now, there is one more issue I could use some advice with. When I tried to start the car after a few weeks, it was dead. I jumped it, and it started, but the e-brake warning was on and the dash read “service parking brake”.

I thought it might be the battery so I took it to the auto store and got a charge this morning. With a full battery, the parking brake light is still on, and the message is still on the dash. Any thoughts on this?

 

[joegr]

The info center should have tried to guide you through the procedure to reinitialize it. This must be done anytime the battery is disconnected. If it didn't, or that didn't work, then do the procedure in the owner's manual.

If the battery is disconnected (or removed), it will be necessary to reset
the parking brake; the message center will display APPLY PARK BRAKE
followed by FOOT ON BRAKE or APPLY ((P)) followed by FOOT BRK.
With the ignition on and the engine not running, depress the brake pedal
and apply the parking brake. The brake lamp will illuminate; this is
normal and the parking brake is now reset. To release the parking brake,
push the lever down with your foot on the brake pedal.

 

[Olaf]

Ah, Joe you’re the best, man!
I will do the procedure and hopefully I can drive her around the corner. The cops are on my case for blighting the street! Fie!

 

[Olaf]

Hey, that worked fine! Wierd to see the screen with no warnings! Thanks again.

 

[joegr]

You might want to read the owner's manual sometime. You might be surprised by some of the less apparent features.
Press the unlock button on your remote for several seconds...

 

[Broseph]

Or the speed volume control (I know Gen I has it). There is a post about these hidden gems somewhere.