My LS lost electrical power.. Please help

lincoln_zero

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
923
Reaction score
76
Location
ICE COLD CANADA
So I got home tonight, all's well. Parked the car. After about 40 minutes, I was gonna leave and got in the LS. Put the key in, turned the key, and the power went out (like a house losing power). Only the airbag light is on when I turn the key, nothing else.

Any ideas what this could be cause by? I had no warnings at all driving home. Car is in my driveway.
 
Last edited:
UPDATE::

Ok I went out, car isn't responding to the FOB. But, I inserted the key into the door, and turned it to lock position. then to unlock, and the puddle light came on, but its dim. I sit in the car, put the key in, and the steering column moves slowly. I turned the ignition to on, but did not attempt to start. Lights are dim.

SO dead battery I presume? I was blaring the music and i did punch it a couple times on the way home. We only drove 20 minutes to and from dinner and the car sat 2 days.
 
Last edited:
Certainly sounds like a battery and it could also be the alternator. Jump it and take it to O'Reilly or someone you trust and have the battery and alternator tested.
 
UPDATE::

Ok I went out, car isn't responding to the FOB. But, I inserted the key into the door, and turned it to lock position. then to unlock, and the puddle light came on, but its dim. I sit in the car, put the key in, and the steering column moves slowly. I turned the ignition to on, but did not attempt to start. Lights are dim.

SO dead battery I presume? I was blaring the music and i did punch it a couple times on the way home. We only drove 20 minutes to and from dinner and the car sat 2 days.
sounds like the battery needs replacing for sure ...usually but not always you will get a charging system warning if its the alternator ...I agree with Craig put a charger on the batterry and bring it to a auto store or service shop and have the car tested both battery and alternator ...you know the rules start with the most simple things
 
So I hooked up a mastercraft charger on the battery last night at around 1:00 am. Its been 6.5 hours, and I went out to start it, heres what happened:
Open doors, lights are on. Put key in and seat does not move. Attempt to start, and nothing. I hear the clicking sound but no engine turn over. Get out of the car, remove charger. Push LS onto the road (so my wife can get out). Try again to start, same sound. No engine turn over. Then the alarm attempts to go off but the horn sounds very weak.

So that's where I'm at.

Next Step I guess is to buy a battery?
 
Yes, the battery. You can take it and have it tested to be certain, but it really sounds like it is done.
You may find that the alternator is bad too. One can kill the other. With the new battery in, measure the battery voltage with the engine running, it should be about 14.2 volts. Above 14.8 is a problem, as is below 13.8.

The battery in my 06 failed this last weekend. It sounded weak starting Friday night, then really weak Saturday morning moving the car to replace the front brakes. It wouldn't start after that. The local Ford dealer's parts department is closed on Saturdays, but the O'Reilly Auto Parts near my had the correct battery (for slightly more money).
 
So I hooked up a mastercraft charger on the battery last night at around 1:00 am. Its been 6.5 hours, and I went out to start it, heres what happened:
Open doors, lights are on. Put key in and seat does not move. Attempt to start, and nothing. I hear the clicking sound but no engine turn over. Get out of the car, remove charger. Push LS onto the road (so my wife can get out). Try again to start, same sound. No engine turn over. Then the alarm attempts to go off but the horn sounds very weak.

So that's where I'm at.

Next Step I guess is to buy a battery?
A good cold snap to start the winter season will wipe out a weak battery quicker than a fat kid chasing cake
 
UPDATE:

So I was able to get a ride today to Costco where I purchased an AGM Battery. Friend and I put it in, car fired right up. Took it out for a drive down to the neighboring city, did a little shopping and drove her home. Bout 1.5 hours worth of driving, totally fine.

The previous battery didn't hold a charge at all, even when I connected a charger to it over night. The part that scared me and why I wrote this post was because the LS power went out, like a city block losing power. Never seen that before. Not sure why either.
 
Happy you all replied. Thanks for the tips, I will test my alternator later this week to make sure I have the right voltage readout.
 
UPDATE:

So I was able to get a ride today to Costco where I purchased an AGM Battery. ...

You will regret this (maybe big time) if it is not the correct battery with the vent tube connection to the outside of the trunk. The LS is set for a higher voltage than the AGMs really like, so it will be even more likely to vent hydrogen.
 
You will regret this (maybe big time) if it is not the correct battery with the vent tube connection to the outside of the trunk. The LS is set for a higher voltage than the AGMs really like, so it will be even more likely to vent hydrogen.

Yeah I remember the post on here years ago where someone quoted Optima rep saying that the Optima is not designed for trunk application, hood only.
I did run Optima's for 8 years in trunk. Its possible they vented Hydrogen at some point, I will never know.

BUT the LS overcharging is a problem. I did not know it outputs a higher voltage.

Costco allows returns with full refund up to 3 years. So I'll start looking for a battery with a vented tube. Thanks for the heads up joegr.

EDIT:
The previous battery in there was an Interstate battery, which had self venting out the sides, no tube hooked up. And it looked old. Previous owner has been driving with that for years. I am glad the battery failed, or I might not have noticed this.
(The LS's Tube was just tucked away, as this battery had no tube vent port).
 
Our Costco wouldn't even sell us a battery because of the vent tube.
 
Yes, the battery. You can take it and have it tested to be certain, but it really sounds like it is done.
You may find that the alternator is bad too. One can kill the other. With the new battery in, measure the battery voltage with the engine running, it should be about 14.2 volts. Above 14.8 is a problem, as is below 13.8.

The battery in my 06 failed this last weekend. It sounded weak starting Friday night, then really weak Saturday morning moving the car to replace the front brakes. It wouldn't start after that. The local Ford dealer's parts department is closed on Saturdays, but the O'Reilly Auto Parts near my had the correct battery (for slightly more money).
Hey Joegr I’m ready to send my 2001 V8 down the road Sunday and pick up a 2006 V8 ...anywho I just replaced the alternator in my 2001 V8 and I tested the battery with the car off and it tested at 12.06 Volts and with the car running 15.1 Volts I fired her up and it drops to 10 Volts ...on this post you said that if the LS’s battery is above 14 Volts with the car running there’s is something wrong ...well 15 Volts would be high ....any thoughts about what I’m up against here?
 
...any thoughts about what I’m up against here?

Failed voltage regulator, or an open circuit in the battery voltage sense line. That wire starts out as a red/blue wire coming from fuse 15 in the trunk. At the other side of C137 it turns into a red wire that goes through C140 and goes to the alternator. The connector at the alternator is C102, and the red wire will be on pin 3. It should be at battery voltage at all times.
C140 is under the hood, near the firewall on the passenger side. C237 is in the cabin, behind the passenger's kick panel.
 
Failed voltage regulator, or an open circuit in the battery voltage sense line. That wire starts out as a red/blue wire coming from fuse 15 in the trunk. At the other side of C137 it turns into a red wire that goes through C140 and goes to the alternator. The connector at the alternator is C102, and the red wire will be on pin 3. It should be at battery voltage at all times.
C140 is under the hood, near the firewall on the passenger side. C237 is in the cabin, behind the passenger's kick panel.
Correct me if I’m wrong but what I hear you saying is I should start by making sure the fuse is not blown in the trunk then proceed to check out the connector attached to alternator...the red wire/ pin 3? I guess I’m a bit confused by the statement you made...” it should be at battery voltage at all times” I’m over thinking this as always...Can you tell me what is exactly happening here ...Are you saying the red wire is more than likely damaged on the alternator connector specifically...the red wire in pin #3?
 
Last edited:
Yes, verify the fuse, then make sure that you read battery voltage at pin 3 of the connector to the alternator.
If the battery is at 11 volts, then pin 3 must be at 11 volts. If the battery is 12.6 volts, then pin 3 must be 12.6 volts, and so on. If it does not exactly track battery voltage, then you have a break in the wire or a problem a C140 or C237.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top