04_Sport_LS's Suspension thread

Thanks-Jville...But,,,-I-found-the-parts-I-needed.

Ironically...after-removing-the-coil-springs,(to-get-the-isolators)...I-noticed-that-the-bottom-of-one-spring-was-a-bit-"off-angle",(not-parallel-with-the-top).--Wanna-guess-which-side-that-spring-came-from???...and-why???--(hint:-this-is-another-issue-with-the-"no-longer-available-LS-springs)
 
First of, hi everyone!

@04_Sport_LS thanks for all this detailed info and pictures! It's amazingly helpful.

By your name and what your wrote here, I assume you have a gen 2 LS Sport, as do I (V8).
I'm trying to source some sport shocks to be delivered here in Canada and having a hard time. The front sports (AST214) are available from a number of retailers and although they seem to be universally on back order, they're easy enough to source. The rear sports OEMs though, I can't find anywhere, not even eBay.

Do you have any idea if the Jag Bilsten shocks you mentioned match the stock springs, on the rear? In other words, can I drop them in as a direct replacement? Mr. BCA says here that the rears would indeed fit.

Are they a "good match" with the front OEM LS suspension? If not, do you have any recommendations for rear shocks? I can't stand how worn they've gotten and I need to replace my lower control arm ASAP, so otherwise, I'm thinking of putting in the cheapest shocks I can find. Sadly, the BILSTEIN 24026628 you mentioned are not far off that mark - looking at OSC S341656 and I assume they're garbage, but at least they're cheaper than Monroe.

Thanks for your patience. I will try to contribute constructively to the community ASAP.
 
Shocks


2X Front Shock Absorbers // 18124 (AST-25)
'00-'02 V8 Front "Special" (Sport) Shocks: ASH24464 or BU2Z-18V124-R or 1W4Z-18124-DA or AST25
1W43-18045-DA AST25 Shock Absorber FRONT COLOR CODE GREEN - w/PERF SUSP

2X Rear Shock Absorbers // 18125 (AT-704-G)
'00-'02 V8 Rear "Special" (Sport) Shocks: ASH24468 or BU2Z-18V125-U or XW4Z-18125-BA or AT704G
1W43-18080-BA AT704G Shock Absorber REAR COLOR CODE PURPLE - w/PERF SUSP

.
 
Thanks for that. I poured through the forums last year and collected that information, however, I can't find the rear V8s Sports stocked anywhere. :( The closest I've gotten is with XW4Z18125BA at RockAuto, but they're out of stock. Any other ideas? I tried Tasca, eBay and even plain ol' Google. A lot of places have it listed as discontinued, unfortunately.
If those don't come back in stock at RA, I'll probably go with the Bilsten's for the Jag. :(

In terms of the fronts, I never put much effort into looking into the first gen's (ASH24464 / AST-25), so thank you for opening my eyes to that. Just now I realised that RA has two categories for the gen 1, listed in separate categories as "shock absorbers" and "struts" - gen 2 only has a "struts" listing. The MotorCrafts are under "shock absorbers"...

Is there a compelling reason why I would go for the first generation front struts rather than the 2006 2nd gen (AST-214)? (Of course, if availability and price are not a problem) I saw it mentioned somewhere that they got crappier, but I dismissed that as anecdotal since the only evidence was price. Did I miss something?
 
Grey,

As-long-as-your-rear-springs-are-in-good-shape,-(not-broken-or-severely-rusted-at-the-bottom-isolator)...-then-the-Bilstein-"B4"-shocks-are-a-direct-replacement.

However,,,-I-think-you-may-be-getting-some-different-front-shock/spring-fitment-issues-confused.

1----If-you-do-the-Jag-Bilstein-shocks-on-the-front,,,-then-you-would-want-to-do-them-on-the-front-also.--BUT...this-leads-to-replacing-the-front-factory-LS-springs-with-Jag-"S-Type"-springs.--Reason-is-the-bottom-spring-mount-on-the-Jag-Bilstein-shock...is-larger-in-diameter-than-the-bottom-of-the-factory-LS-spring,-(as-BCA-has-pointed-out).

2----The-reason-for-using-2002-or-earlier-Jag-"S-Type"-shocks-on-the-front-of-the-LS....is-because-the-2003-and-later-"S-Type"-shocks....use-a-different-lower-mounting-system,,,-that-will-NOT-work-on-either-GEN-of-LS.

Last-time-I-checked...the-LS-factory-shocks-were-NLA---That's-the-reason-for-the-Jag-conversion-parts.--However.....

3----Even-though-the-rear-LS-springs-will-work-with-the-Jag-Bilsteins,,,-the-LS-suspension-will-be-"unbalanced"-since-the-front-Jag-Bilsteins-won't-work-with-the-front-LS-springs,-(as-mentioned-in-point-#1)

Having-done-the-rear-suspension-rebuild-on-my-LS-a-few-months-ago...using-all-jag-parts,,,-I-can-say-for-a-fact-that-it-made-the-LS-"front-heavy"-through-turns...and-very-harsh-over-bumps.

Having-just-done-the-front-suspension-rebuild...preliminary-results-show-a-better-balance-and-handling...and-as-with-the-front,,,a-slightly-stiffer-suspension.

I-have-many-pics-documented-of-the-front-rebuild...and-will-download-when-I-have-time.--Work-is-still-taking-up-much-of--my-time...so-stand-by.
 
Dude would you Fn spring for a new keyboard already!
Just remember, GOD punishes the little crimes first ... so no spacebar for you!
 
Forgot-to-mention-last-time-I-posted-here...that-the-70-MPH-steering-wheel-shake-many-people-complain-about,,,is-now-gone.--Most-likely-due-to-a-bad-ball-joint,-(passenger-side-in-my-case).

Pics-still-coming,,,just-need-more-time....and-faster/better-internet.

And-Rigs...

Not-much-cussing.:)--Left-upper-control-arm-took-a-bit-of-time-with-a-15mm-ratchet-wrench,-(one-"click"-at-a-time),-until-the-inside-nut-with-the-"clip"-could-be-rotated-by-hand...BUT...it-IS-possible-to-pull-the--rear-left-upper-control-arm-nut,,,without-having-to-f-with-any-of-the-brake-system.

I-have-it-documented.;)

Only-cussing-happened-while-trying-to-get-the-frozen-passenger-wheel-hub-assembly-out-of-the-knuckle.......at-least-until-I-got-smart,-(also-documented).:rolleyes:
 
Grey,

As-long-as-your-rear-springs-are-in-good-shape,-(not-broken-or-severely-rusted-at-the-bottom-isolator)...-then-the-Bilstein-"B4"-shocks-are-a-direct-replacement.

However,,,-I-think-you-may-be-getting-some-different-front-shock/spring-fitment-issues-confused.

1----If-you-do-the-Jag-Bilstein-shocks-on-the-front,,,-then-you-would-want-to-do-them-on-the-front-also.--BUT...this-leads-to-replacing-the-front-factory-LS-springs-with-Jag-"S-Type"-springs.--Reason-is-the-bottom-spring-mount-on-the-Jag-Bilstein-shock...is-larger-in-diameter-than-the-bottom-of-the-factory-LS-spring,-(as-BCA-has-pointed-out).

2----The-reason-for-using-2002-or-earlier-Jag-"S-Type"-shocks-on-the-front-of-the-LS....is-because-the-2003-and-later-"S-Type"-shocks....use-a-different-lower-mounting-system,,,-that-will-NOT-work-on-either-GEN-of-LS.

Last-time-I-checked...the-LS-factory-shocks-were-NLA---That's-the-reason-for-the-Jag-conversion-parts.--However.....

3----Even-though-the-rear-LS-springs-will-work-with-the-Jag-Bilsteins,,,-the-LS-suspension-will-be-"unbalanced"-since-the-front-Jag-Bilsteins-won't-work-with-the-front-LS-springs,-(as-mentioned-in-point-#1)

Having-done-the-rear-suspension-rebuild-on-my-LS-a-few-months-ago...using-all-jag-parts,,,-I-can-say-for-a-fact-that-it-made-the-LS-"front-heavy"-through-turns...and-very-harsh-over-bumps.

Having-just-done-the-front-suspension-rebuild...preliminary-results-show-a-better-balance-and-handling...and-as-with-the-front,,,a-slightly-stiffer-suspension.

I-have-many-pics-documented-of-the-front-rebuild...and-will-download-when-I-have-time.--Work-is-still-taking-up-much-of--my-time...so-stand-by.

Not sure if your still following this thread....I have a question about your post...

“If-you-do-the-Jag-Bilstein-shocks-on-the-front,,,-then-you-would-want-to-do-them-on-the-front-also.--BUT...this-leads-to-replacing-the-front-factory-LS-springs-with-Jag-"S-Type"-springs.--Reason-is-the-bottom-spring-mount-on-the-Jag-Bilstein-shock...is-larger-in-diameter-than-the-bottom-of-the-factory-LS-spring,-(as-BCA-has-pointed-out).”

Was the first “front” suppose to be “rear”?
 
Was the first “front” suppose to be “rear”?

Yes it was. I mis-typed. I'll fix it. I'm still here and need to finish this thread. I think I have more part #s to list.... and a boat load of pictures with descriptions to download and explain. Been very busy with work the last 4 months or so. 70-80+ hrs a week,,, plus a 2.5 hour round trip each day. I have some "down time" now... so after I catch up around the house a bit,,, hopefully I can get back to this.
 
Thanks for clarifying. I need to look to do some suspension work in the not too distant future. Nothing wrong, just things starting to wear out with 211k miles on my 04.

I just replaced the sway bar bushings with the ES bushings.

I probably won’t be able to do everything: shocks, springs, LCA, UCA, links, etc in one shot. Is there a reasonable order that makes sense and/or might yield meaningful results if nothing is “broken”? One place to start for me is UCA boots. The ball joints are good but the boots are shot.
 
I don't believe the boots are available separately... least not that I could find. The, (arm), ball joint,,, boot and coil type "snap ring" are part of the arm assembly. Now if you had a direct line to the manufacturer,,, I'm thinking the arms could be rebuilt... but the parts are not available separatley because the average mechanic couldn't rebuild it. Same with the arm bushings. I found parts listings and a source for some of the obscure bushings,,, but some of those bushings are NLA from the OEM parts supplier. Either way... a torn boot is usually a sign of wear within the joint or bushing,,, meaning that whole arm is on the way out.

First in order would be the rear lower control arms,,, unless you have other known worn parts. The left rear lower control arm is known to go out first, (usually), and sometimes it is evident by a squeaking at that corner. The rear LCA's usually go first due to sagging springs/bad shocks,,, and from cornering stresses due to onramps/offramps... and/or extra weight over the rear wheels
 
One other thing. Get a set of factory manuals. During the suspension rebuild,,, there are alot of different torque specs for alot of different bolts.... which means you will also need an inch-pound and foot-pound torque wrench. Actually... there are alot of different torque specs for all the nuts and bolts on these cars,,, so the price for a set of factory manuals is worth that alone.

The Craftsman stuff is ok,,, and you can usually get both for around $75 for both when they are on sale late in the year. If you want better... you can get Wright or Mac,,, but you are looking at least double in price... if not more. Any used torque wrench bought on the "net" is going to need recalibrated, (unless already done), which I think is about $50. So that bargain "high dollar" torque wrench for $50 on e-bay,,, will cost you $100 before it is accurate.
 
Follow up questions/clarifications....

I have read and reread several of the threads regarding the use Bilstein B4 shocks.

Rear spring/coils from LS can be used
Front spring/coils from LS can NOT be used, must use Jag springs

I have one side at the rear of my '04 V8 premium sport (with all wood trim and selector trans) running about 1/2" lower. I also notice some slight extra body roll when cornering hard. I can't pull the trigger on new shocks and/or springs at the moment.

There are quite a few 2000-2002 Jag S-Type cars in local pull yards. I was thinking of pulling a full set from one of the more kept up cars I find and/or trying to find a Gen 2 Sport and getting the rears off.

I realize this isn't a long term solution but not sure if it is just a bad/waste of time idea.
 
Follow up questions/clarifications....

I have read and reread several of the threads regarding the use Bilstein B4 shocks.

Rear spring/coils from LS can be used
Front spring/coils from LS can NOT be used, must use Jag springs

This is correct

I have one side at the rear of my '04 V8 premium sport (with all wood trim and selector trans) running about 1/2" lower. I also notice some slight extra body roll when cornering hard. I can't pull the trigger on new shocks and/or springs at the moment.

There are quite a few 2000-2002 Jag S-Type cars in local pull yards. I was thinking of pulling a full set from one of the more kept up cars I find and/or trying to find a Gen 2 Sport and getting the rears off.

I realize this isn't a long term solution but not sure if it is just a bad/waste of time idea.

I had a broken rear coil and this is exactly what I did as well.

I sourced my rear springs from a used S-Type that was a California car and the assembly looked very clean (near mint to this Michigan native) with the only visible issue being the bottom shock bushings were noticeably worn and once I replaced them with new shocks, it was pretty obvious that the shocks themselves were also past their lifespan.

I wouldn't hesitate in using used coils as long as you know the source is a good one. Personally I would try my best to stick with Jag springs on the rear as well because the Bilsteins are valved for the Jag spring rates.
 
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This is correct



I had a broken rear coil and this is exactly what I did as well.

I sourced my rear springs from a used S-Type that was a California car and the assembly looked very clean (near mint to this Michigan native) with the only visible issue being the bottom shock bushings were noticeably worn and once I replaced them with new shocks, it was pretty obvious that the shocks themselves were also past their lifespan.

I wouldn't hesitate in using used coils as long as you know the source is a good one. Personally I would try my best to stick with Jag springs on the rear as well because the Bilsteins are valved for the Jag spring rates.
Thanks, were the Jags with CATS only the S type R? How do the CATS equipped S types differ visually from the non-CATS? And, V8 and V6 S types are the same suspension? 2000-2002 are the years...
 
IIRC,,, the CATS were also used on the S-type "sport" model. They will be noticeably different in size, and will have a harness going to them somewhere on each shock. For reference go back to the other more recent thread where we were discussing this, and look at the pictures in the Summit Racing link I provided.

Also... with a corner of the car drooping a bit,,, I'll bet if you look closely at the spring on that corner you will find that the "tail" of the bottom of the spring is either broken or rusted enough that it is bent... thus lowerinjg the ride height and handling performance on that corner.

When I had to scavenge lower spring seats at the boneyard... one of the used shock assemblies had a bent tail on the spring, and was rusted enough that it was ready to break

This is another symptom/issue with the aging factory springs on the LS... so inspect the springs closely before taking the time to pull and purchase from a boneyard.
 
IIRC,,, the CATS were also used on the S-type "sport" model. They will be noticeably different in size, and will have a harness going to them somewhere on each shock. For reference go back to the other more recent thread where we were discussing this, and look at the pictures in the Summit Racing link I provided.

Also... with a corner of the car drooping a bit,,, I'll bet if you look closely at the spring on that corner you will find that the "tail" of the bottom of the spring is either broken or rusted enough that it is bent... thus lowerinjg the ride height and handling performance on that corner.

When I had to scavenge lower spring seats at the boneyard... one of the used shock assemblies had a bent tail on the spring, and was rusted enough that it was ready to break

This is another symptom/issue with the aging factory springs on the LS... so inspect the springs closely before taking the time to pull and purchase from a boneyard.
Awesome help, thanks. I will definitely closely inspect them prior to taking them. Forunately, it appears that shocks aren’t too difficult to get off...as long as nothing is seized.

I did find some CATS pictures and the fact that there would be an electronic lead makes it easier. I’ll report back!!!
 
Also just thought of another question: did the Jag s Types have different “levels” like the LS...base and sport or did they all have the same shocks (not including the CATS, which are obviously different).

Thanks
 
Thanks, were the Jags with CATS only the S type R? How do the CATS equipped S types differ visually from the non-CATS? And, V8 and V6 S types are the same suspension? 2000-2002 are the years...

S-Types with the CATS system will have green painted Bilsteins, standard non-CATS suspensions had black painted Bilsteins.
 
If the boneyard vehicle is off the ground it should only take about 10 minutes per side to pull the rear shock assemblies, (assuming the trunk is cleaned out). Figure out what sockets/wrenches you need by checking sizes on your LS.

4 bolts on top, electric impact for lug nuts, (if wheel is still on), separate rear toe link from knuckle, large bolt on bottom, pry bar to get lower shock eye past control arm. May need to pull caliper to get shock past e-brake cable. Don't remember for sure.
 

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