Transmission Flushed now Check Transmission Light on with the letter E?

AmsterDutch

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I had a Transmission flush done at a professional shop today and car is shifting better than ever but when taking the wife to a movie tonight ( A Quiet Place ) by the way it's not scary at all ...but what is scary is while on the Highway my Check Transmission Light goes on along with the letter E where D5 is suppose to be...the car is shifting great and the shop said my transmission fluid was really dirty...I guess I'll be taking it back Monday but just wanna know if I have to unconnect negative battery cable after the flush or do something else that the mechanic and myself don't know about ...thanks
 
No, don't reset the PCM. It won't help at all, and you may lose what diagnostic information you have.
I hope this "professional shop" used actual Mercon V, and not some aftermarket universal fluid. I also hope this was a fluid exchange (often called a flush), and not an actual flush with solvents.
 
No, don't reset the PCM. It won't help at all, and you may lose what diagnostic information you have.
I hope this "professional shop" used actual Mercon V, and not some aftermarket universal fluid. I also hope this was a fluid exchange (often called a flush), and not an actual flush with solvents.
I won't be able to ask them until Monday unfortunately ...if they used a E-Vac system would've that messed up my transmission not sure if they did I thought being ASE CertifiedMechanics they would know what there doing but I guess I thought wrong I called ford dealer and they said it would be brought to a Quicklane which I wasn't to happy about ...guess I will have to wait until Monday to see if they used the right fluid and know if they have to put in a new torque converter ...I would think they have to pay for it
 
No, don't reset the PCM. It won't help at all, and you may lose what diagnostic information you have.
I hope this "professional shop" used actual Mercon V, and not some aftermarket universal fluid. I also hope this was a fluid exchange (often called a flush), and not an actual flush with solvents.
By the way forgot to mention in last two posts ...the codes are PO741, P1565 and another question? My LS's transmission isn't slipping/missing at all so with that being said I have to conclude its actually shifting better than ever before the flush ....is it safe to drive my car? What are the chances I'm just low on fluid? Doing some wishful thinking :)
 
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Those codes aren't related to the transmission. The first is a PATS code, and the 2nd is an issue with the cruise control (could be clockspring). If you have/had "E" displayed, then there should be at least one transmission code. Are you sure your scan tool can pick them up?
 
Those codes aren't related to the transmission. The first is a PATS code, and the 2nd is an issue with the cruise control (could be clockspring). If you have/had "E" displayed, then there should be at least one transmission code. Are you sure your scan tool can pick them up?
I thought that po741 means that the torque converter clutchsolenoid is faulty or stuck off that what the code reader said 2001 Lincoln LS 3.9 and the p1565 was speed sensor not sure if that's a speed sensor on transmission or wheel but with the Check transmission light on I'm leaning towards the transmission speed sensor I could be wrong ...the code reader was performed at Advance Auto Store ...no offense to younger generation but the person who did the scan was just a kid but I watched him put in the make and model year and 3.9 ...
 
Those codes aren't related to the transmission. The first is a PATS code, and the 2nd is an issue with the cruise control (could be clockspring). If you have/had "E" displayed, then there should be at least one transmission code. Are you sure your scan tool can pick them up?
Yes after researching those codes in depth you're right Joe it has to do with the Servo....my Servo rusted off a long time ago and I never missed having cruise due to not really using it much all my life....so now I wonder if the transmission flush triggered the sensor on missing Servo which it never alarmed me before the flush ....I know you said not to disconnect battery but I'm really wanting to unplug it and see if this Check transmission light comes back with same codes...this will be crucial so I can know whether it's just barking at me because my servo is gone or my transmission is going down the toilet :)
 
Those aren’t related. They are not causing any lights or problems. Those codes were there before you did anything, you just didn’t check for them.
 
Those aren’t related. They are not causing any lights or problems. Those codes were there before you did anything, you just didn’t check for them.
When I start the car the check transmission light isn't on but when I drive for about 5 minutes at around 60-70mph the Check Transmission Light pops on...any ideas what this means since there is no codes showing up in the reader? Yes I also agree it could be the code reader itself ...I did find this on the (Net)
What repairs can fix the P0741 code?
  • Replacing the torque converter lockup solenoid
  • Replacing the TCC solenoid
  • Repairing damaged wiring to TCC solenoid
  • Replacing the valve body
  • Replacing the TCM
  • Repairing damaged wiring to the transmission wiring harness
  • Replacing ECT sensor
  • In some cases, the transmission itself will need to be replaced or rebuilt.
    What are the symptoms of the P0741 code?
    • Check Engine Light is on
    • Increase of fuel consumption
    • Symptoms that resemble those of a misfiring condition
    • Car may stall out after driving at high speeds
    • Car is unable to shift into high gear while at high speeds
    • It is rare, but sometimes there are no symptoms present
    I'm really hoping that the shop I went to has the technology and know how to diagnose this PO741 code ...also I must be the rare one because there are no symptoms my car is giving as of now it's driving better than ever....this sounds serious...thanks for all your input and knowledge once again Joe!
 
"What the P0741 code means
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will set the P0741 diagnostic trouble code when it notices a difference between the rotational speed of the torque converter and the transmission input shaft that is greater than 200 revolutions per minute (RPM).

The rotational speed of the torque converter and the transmission shaft should be equal when the torque converter lockup engine engages. If the torque converter RPM and the transmission input shaft RPM are not equal, the required 1:1 ratio has not been achieved, and the P0741 diagnostic trouble code will be set by the PCM as an indication that the torque converter clutch circuit is out of performance or stuck off.

Related diagnostic trouble codes:

  • P0740 OBD-II Trouble Code: Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Circuit Malfunction
  • P0742 OBD-II Trouble Code: Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
  • P0743 OBD-II Trouble Code: Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Electrical
What causes the P0741 code?
  • Faulty TCC
  • Faulty torque converter lockup solenoid
  • Internal short in the TCC solenoid
  • Wiring to the TCC solenoid that is damaged
  • Faulty valve body
  • Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM)
  • Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
  • Damage of the wiring harness to the transmission
  • Restricted hydraulic passages from dirty transmission fluid
What are the symptoms of the P0741 code?
  • Check Engine Light is on
  • Increase of fuel consumption
  • Symptoms that resemble those of a misfiring condition
  • Car may stall out after driving at high speeds
  • Car is unable to shift into high gear while at high speeds
  • It is rare, but sometimes there are no symptoms present
How does a mechanic diagnose the P0741 code?
  • Uses an OBD-II scanner to get all of the diagnostic trouble codes stored by the PCM
Freeze frame data corresponding to each code is also stored by the PCM and is used to determine what conditions were present when the code first came on.

  • Clears codes then completes a test drive, using free frame data, to see if the P0741 code returns

  • Inspects the wiring harness to the transmission for damaged and/or loose connections

  • Checks fuses or relays for transmission (if applicable to vehicle)

  • Checks the transmission internal wiring harness for short to ground at the TCC solenoid
If a short is present, the wiring should be repaired, or the solenoid replaced.

  • Inspects the wiring to the TCM for damaged wiring or shorts to ground
If the wiring to the TCM and the TCC solenoid pass inspection and testing, an advanced scan tool will be able to show when the TCC solenoid is activating the torque converter, and when the torque converter is operating.

Advanced scan tools range in price from $1000-$3000, therefore it may be necessary to take the car to a shop or dealership that has it, so the P0741 code can be diagnosed properly.

Common mistakes when diagnosing the P0741 code
The P0741 diagnostic trouble code can be difficult to diagnose. Be sure to check all of the transmission wiring, the TCM, and the TCC solenoids.

Keep in mind that the transmission pan may have to be dropped to get to all of the wiring. It is common for the torque converter to be replaced when a faulty TCC solenoid or valve body is the actual problem.

How serious is the P0741 code?
When the P0741 diagnostic trouble code is present, it is an indication that the transmission is not operating properly. Driving a vehicle under this condition may cause damage to other internal transmission parts. For this reason, the P0741 trouble code is considered serious and should be addressed as soon as possible.

What repairs can fix the P0741 code?
  • Replacing the torque converter lockup solenoid
  • Replacing the TCC solenoid
  • Repairing damaged wiring to TCC solenoid
  • Replacing the valve body
  • Replacing the TCM
  • Repairing damaged wiring to the transmission wiring harness
  • Replacing ECT sensor
  • In some cases, the transmission itself will need to be replaced or rebuilt
Additional comments for consideration regarding the P0741 code
Take your time when checking all of the wiring, including the wiring to the transmission wiring harness, TCC solenoid wiring harness, and the TCM wiring harness.

In some cars, the transmission pan will need to be dropped and if this is the case, make sure the transmission pan is dropped properly. It may be necessary to take the car to a transmission shop or to a dealer to have the P0741 diagnostic trouble code diagnosed, because of the special scan tool that may need to be used during diagnosis."
 
Simple way to check for torque converter lock up is to drive at a steady 50 MPH -without using cruise control. While holding steady on gas petal, tap brake with left foot, tach should pick up several hundred rpm for a few seconds. That would be lock up solenoid unlocking converter. If no change in rpm, solenoid is suspect. Did that on my 01 3.9 and replacing solenoid block cured problem.
 
Simple way to check for torque converter lock up is to drive at a steady 50 MPH -without using cruise control. While holding steady on gas petal, tap brake with left foot, tach should pick up several hundred rpm for a few seconds. That would be lock up solenoid unlocking converter. If no change in rpm, solenoid is suspect. Did that on my 01 3.9 and replacing solenoid block cured problem.
Thanks for the heads up and thanks for all your posts on the other threads I found your knowledge and experience with this transmission is greatly appreciated bro!
 
Simple way to check for torque converter lock up is to drive at a steady 50 MPH -without using cruise control. While holding steady on gas petal, tap brake with left foot, tach should pick up several hundred rpm for a few seconds. That would be lock up solenoid unlocking converter. If no change in rpm, solenoid is suspect. Did that on my 01 3.9 and replacing solenoid block cured problem.
Okay so I took her out on the road and drove a steady 50 mph I tapped the brake while holding at 50 mph on petal and it jumped up about 700 RPM for a couple seconds not even maybe a second or a second and half anyway it didn't last long it jumped up and then back down I just tapped it not sure what this is saying? kinda confused? So are you saying if RPM's jumped up it means I need a solenoid or if RPM's don't move I need a solenoid? It's just frustrating that I can set my watch to when the Check Transmission Light comes on now. I drive about two miles or so at 55mph and greater and she illuminates every time ....still really weird that the car is shifting better than it ever has before the flush...it was kinda clunking a bit when going from 45mph to 50 mph before the flush and when the warning wouldn't come on and now it's smooth as silk can't even feel it shift except for the sound of the engine signifies with different RPM sound ...I now know how this car shifted when new out of the factory :)
 
No, don't reset the PCM. It won't help at all, and you may lose what diagnostic information you have.
I hope this "professional shop" used actual Mercon V, and not some aftermarket universal fluid. I also hope this was a fluid exchange (often called a flush), and not an actual flush with solvents.
We'll found out they used a universal fluid :( I'm guessing I better flush it again with Mercon V?
 
We'll found out they used a universal fluid :( I'm guessing I better flush it again with Mercon V?

I surely would. I don't know that doing so will fix your problem, but I have certainly heard that using anything other than Mercon V is a problem.
 
I surely would. I don't know that doing so will fix your problem, but I have certainly heard that using anything other than Mercon V is a problem.
The shop is trying to tell me that the universal has the same specifications as Mercon V And now I have to wait until Thursday to get my car back in there to check if the level is okay ...thinking I should just take it to the dealer
 
The shop is trying to tell me that the universal has the same specifications as Mercon V And now I have to wait until Thursday to get my car back in there to check if the level is okay ...thinking I should just take it to the dealer

Probably should. The problem is that there is no way for the universal fluid to meet all the specs for all the fluids that it is supposed to replace, since some of them contradict others.
 
Probably should. The problem is that there is no way for the universal fluid to meet all the specs for all the fluids that it is supposed to replace, since some of them contradict others.
I couldn't agee more, this is a typical independent running a shop without verifying the capacity and specifications of the rare and somewhat elusive Lincoln LS ...the more I learn the more I understand why it's almost always better to either do the work yourself on this car or bring to Lincoln dealership
 
Probably should. The problem is that there is no way for the universal fluid to meet all the specs for all the fluids that it is supposed to replace, since some of them contradict others.
This is only the 3rd time I brought this car to a shop for service the other 2 times was to have ball joints pressed into knuckles and alignment which was another waste of money as you know due to aluminum knuckles warping upon replacing the joints...the last time was after Me Myself and I replaced out whole knuckle assemblies with built in ball joints, and front shock absorbers and needed another alignment other wise LVC has schooled me we'll in tie rods, and end links, cooling system replacement and tune ups
 
Last but certainly not least my 2001 Lincoln LS with 176,000 miles had 5 owners before I bought it and I'm sure it was driven hard which is the reason why I admire this car due to having a strong engine that keeps its snap day in and day out...but in conclusion the transmission fluid was never changed and when it came out it was black as a starless night in a blacked out closet where not an inch, second or ounce of light could get in...so for those with LSes that are creeping up on 100,000 -150,000 and driven hard whether it be in Metro areas or just like to hot rod around town ...I highly recommend you keep the tranny fluid in tip top shape because this is one hell of a complex transmission
 
Okay so I took her out on the road and drove a steady 50 mph I tapped the brake while holding at 50 mph on petal and it jumped up about 700 RPM for a couple seconds not even maybe a second or a second and half anyway it didn't last long it jumped up and then back down I just tapped it not sure what this is saying? kinda confused? So are you saying if RPM's jumped up it means I need a solenoid or if RPM's don't move I need a solenoid? It's just frustrating that I can set my watch to when the Check Transmission Light comes on now. I drive about two miles or so at 55mph and greater and she illuminates every time ....still really weird that the car is shifting better than it ever has before the flush...it was kinda clunking a bit when going from 45mph to 50 mph before the flush and when the warning wouldn't come on and now it's smooth as silk can't even feel it shift except for the sound of the engine signifies with different RPM sound ...I now know how this car shifted when new out of the factory :)
 
Your converter is working properly. The momentary rpm increase is due to the converter unlocking and since you are not accelerating, locking back up. So at least you know your converter locks and unlocks.
 
Your converter is working properly. The momentary rpm increase is due to the converter unlocking and since you are not accelerating, locking back up. So at least you know your converter locks and unlocks.
Well that's a relief .... ( kinda ) I can only hope that my transmission is low on fluid ...not going to hold my breath ....after researching the Lincoln LS's Transmission system it's a lot like going online when your sick and trying to figure out what you might have ...at the end of your Google search the conclusion is the sickness is going to kill you ...a lot what I research about ppl with faulty transmissions in these cars it ends with a $4000 dollar ending....or at least that's what the shops and dealerships tell the ppl it's going to cost to fix it ...well in conclusion my car should've had a flush probably about 10 years ago, so only time will tell the outcome in the end..once again I want to say your help is much appreciated ...Thursday is judgment day ...Wish me luck :|
 
If you end up replacing your transmission, here is a link to my first post in Dec 2016 after we went through replacing ours (2003 LS Sport) with a remanufactured one from ETE Reman | Remanufactured, Rebuilt & Used Auto Transmissions & Repair for $2860 installed. So far so good. It comes with a unlimited mileage/3 year warranty. Hopefully you won't have to go through this.

2003 Lincoln LS - Replaced Transmission

Well that's a relief .... ( kinda ) I can only hope that my transmission is low on fluid ...not going to hold my breath ....after researching the Lincoln LS's Transmission system it's a lot like going online when your sick and trying to figure out what you might have ...at the end of your Google search the conclusion is the sickness is going to kill you ...a lot what I research about ppl with faulty transmissions in these cars it ends with a $4000 dollar ending....or at least that's what the shops and dealerships tell the ppl it's going to cost to fix it ...well in conclusion my car should've had a flush probably about 10 years ago, so only time will tell the outcome in the end..once again I want to say your help is much appreciated ...Thursday is judgment day ...Wish me luck :|
 
If you end up replacing your transmission, here is a link to my first post in Dec 2016 after we went through replacing ours (2003 LS Sport) with a remanufactured one from ETE Reman | Remanufactured, Rebuilt & Used Auto Transmissions & Repair for $2860 installed. So far so good. It comes with a unlimited mileage/3 year warranty. Hopefully you won't have to go through this.

2003 Lincoln LS - Replaced Transmission
Thanks for the info but if I need a new transmission, I will be upgrading to a newer Lincoln ...again I appreciate the info
 

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