2001 Lincoln LS - No 5th Gear

A

Airman89

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hey everyone I have an issue I'm trying to fix on my Lincoln LS that I just purchased. I bought it from an auction. It has been hit on the front end damaging the drivers side fender into the coolant reservoir, slightly the hood, to the drivers door.

My issue;

I start the car and it shows on the dash, "P" for park, then acts normal as I begin driving with shifter in d5. It will shift fine for 5 minutes or so and then all the sudden RPMS shoot up and it is no longer in 5th gear and it says check transmission. I'm getting the code for the solenoid C but I have been told this is also the code for limp mode which could be vacuum related. It does run lean but only by about +9/+10 on both banks of he engine (To trip SES on most cars you have to hit +/- 25 I believe), should this activate the limp mode?

Thank you


Adam
 
You need to post the actual five character DTC(s) that you are getting. We need to know the exact one to help. At a glance, both comments (limp mode and vacuum related) are very unlikely as related to your problem on an LS.
 
P0795 is the code. What I need to know is if a solenoid/solenoid pack is shot, would it ever shift right? It shifts fine for the first 5 minutes then the code is thrown. To me it seems like the PCM is finding something after driving for a few minutes which it doesn't like, so it sends a signal to throw the Lincoln into limp mode.
 
Airman89 said:
P0795 is the code. ...
Click to expand...

That code indicates a problem with solenoid "C" in the solenoid assembly, or the wiring between the assembly and the PCM, or the PCM itself. It's usually the solenoid assembly, but it is simple to test to verify that it isn't the wiring. This will not be triggered by a "vacuum" or other issue.
 
Ok perfect. Where is the wiring that I need to test loacated? I only see o2 sensor wiring near the transmission.
 
There's a big plug on top (to the side) of the transmission. It's those wires. They run from there to the PCM, which is on the firewall on the passenger side. (The PCM is on the dash side of the firewall, but the connector and wiring is on the engine side.) You can't disconnect the plug on the transmission without dropping the pan and removing the solenoid assembly.
Looking at and physically checking the wiring is an important step, but it is not enough. You will also have to do some continuity tests and tests for shorts. These are best done with the help of wiring diagrams and even better yet, the troubleshooting flowcharts for your particular concern.
 
Besides the specifics Joe is sharing, if you peruse the articles in here you will find that there is alot about these issues. If the car is like the vast majority of them out there and never had any tranny service in its life, you will find that you are likely in line for a valve body rebuild and/or solenoid pack change out. I did that with my 2001 and its real nice now.
 
Well the thing to keep in mind here is that this is a wrecked car. It has to be related only because I highly doubt the previous owner was driving around in limp mode with no top end. The impact had to have caused damage to something triggering the limp mode.
 
I will be testing continuity and visually inspecting the wires within the next few hours. Thank you for all the help. I'll keep you updated .
 
Airman89 said:
Well the thing to keep in mind here is that this is a wrecked car. It has to be related only because I highly doubt the previous owner was driving around in limp mode with no top end. The impact had to have caused damage to something triggering the limp mode.
Click to expand...

I mostly agree, and that's why I think the wiring should be checked. That said, there's as much or more chance that the shock from the impact was the last straw for the solenoid assembly, and maybe a spring or two in the valve body.
 
I checked the wiring and it seems to be ok and undamaged (Getting ready to check continuity).

However, I performed a few more tests just now, the KOEO and KOER tests and I have a few more codes that I got from those tests.

Here they are;

P1568 speed control unable to hold speed

P0703 brake switch b input circuit

P1650 Power steering pressure switch or of self test range

The speed control unable to hold speed makes me think it could be some wiring damaged. What are your thoughts?

Thanks
 
P1568 - probably the cruse control servo. (Wiring would often be a different, more specific code) Isn't the servo on the driver's side at the fender? (Gen II doesn't have one, and I don't have a gen I)

P0703 - you didn't press the brake pedal when you were supposed to during the KOER test, did you?

P1650 - you didn't turn the steering wheel back and forth (just a little more than wiggling it, no need to turn very far) when you were supposed to during the KOER test did you?
 
Yes I believe I seen it inside the fender when I put the new one on.

As for the brake, yes I held the brake down during the KOEO test and the brake switch code is still present.
 
Yes we checked those as well. Brake lights seem ok, I'm not sure how they work when driving but idling they are fine.
 
Airman89 said:
Yes we checked those as well. Brake lights seem ok, I'm not sure how they work when driving but idling they are fine.
Click to expand...

Is it possible that you held the brake pedal down too long during the test?

The PCM needs to see a working brake switch to know when to unlock the torque converter. It didn't sound like you were have any problems with that.
 
I'm heading out now to run he test again. I'll depress the brake pedal repeatedly to see if it changes, if not then I'll do it a few times slowly and see.
 
Well I've tried it multiple different ways today and no matter how I press the brake pedal, that code stays on the scanner with the koeo test, however not present with an ses on dash.
 
As long as you aren't stalling the engine when you brake while driving, I think you can ignore it.
 
Ok I'll move on past that. Roughly how much continuity should I have going to the solenoid? Also, wouldthe best way to test the continuity be to have the car on and in d5?

I'm heading out to test the continuity at the solenoid now.
 
You can't test continuity with the car on, or even with the harness plugged in at the PCM and the Solenoid assembly. After zeroing out the resistance of your test leads, you should see less than 4 ohms per connection.
 
You could do this test.


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2.JPG


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No continuity, just the nominal resistance, if something is burned or open you could know(electrical).
To check continuity just should measure as Jorge said.
Of course if your wire is bad you'll have a bad reading on component resistance.

@Airman89 what scanner did you use to do a koer test?

Best regards
 
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