Air ride on and off

Rockbottom

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My air ride works and at times its message is check air ride so When that happened I have been turning off the ignition and re start . Then air ride pumps up . Happened today going out for V day and I switched ign off and back restart car. The system then pumped up the ride. Drove it for 50 miles and no more trouble. It will happen over . Any connection between re start and air ride working correctly ?
 
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Sounds like a height sensor, or relay problem
Sounds like a height sensor, or relay problem
Thanks Tony,
Does this system leek down ever.
When I start up at home, it has to pump up as over nite it deflates. Is that normal? When it inflates, it stays up until that check air ride message is on. Then to correct I turn off and turn on ignition as needed, sometimes 2 times. Then the car message goes off and the car start inflating till normal. I do have a ignition switch with a new one to replace it. Do not think its the ignition switch doing it. Is ther a body controll module that can be scanned for codes. I have been told there is none. Correct or incorrect?
 
You have a leak. The compresser times out, and when you re start it finishes filling the bags. Bad bag, or solenoid "O" rings.
 
You have a leak. The compresser times out, and when you re start it finishes filling the bags. Bad bag, or solenoid "O" rings.
Thanks , this give a place to start looking. I appreciate informing me the compressor has a time out cycle, The bags look like the easiest thing to start looking.
 
The compresser times out,
The timeout is approximately 45 seconds. Only two ways your compressor would be on for this amount of time.
1. You installed the ASHAM 8 (I do not believe you installed this driver height adjustment module)

2. You have a large leak that takes this amount of time to re-fill. It is normal for the compressor to come on each time after the car is parked. The air system has a Park Height Drop, where it lowers the M8 to "Park Height". then when the driver returns and starts the car, it raises the car back to driving height. This should take between 5 to 10 seconds. Similar to when you come off the hwy and the car raises from hwy speed height to city speed height (car lowers almost an inch for anything above 55 mph, I read some say 65mph depending on the year of the M8)

Below is from ASHAM 8 instruction manual:
If you change the height from the lowest position to the highest, the computer might
Error, because only a limited time (about 45 sec) available to running the compressor. If the height change requires more time, the computer displays “Check air ride system” message. In this case you turn off the ignition.
 
The timeout is approximately 45 seconds. Only two ways your compressor would be on for this amount of time.
1. You installed the ASHAM 8 (I do not believe you installed this driver height adjustment module)

2. You have a large leak that takes this amount of time to re-fill. It is normal for the compressor to come on each time after the car is parked. The air system has a Park Height Drop, where it lowers the M8 to "Park Height". then when the driver returns and starts the car, it raises the car back to driving height. This should take between 5 to 10 seconds. Similar to when you come off the hwy and the car raises from hwy speed height to city speed height (car lowers almost an inch for anything above 55 mph, I read some say 65mph depending on the year of the M8)

Below is from ASHAM 8 instruction manual:
If you change the height from the lowest position to the highest, the computer might
Error, because only a limited time (about 45 sec) available to running the compressor. If the height change requires more time, the computer displays “Check air ride system” message. In this case you turn off the ignition.
The timeout is approximately 45 seconds. Only two ways your compressor would be on for this amount of time.
1. You installed the ASHAM 8 (I do not believe you installed this driver height adjustment module)

2. You have a large leak that takes this amount of time to re-fill. It is normal for the compressor to come on each time after the car is parked. The air system has a Park Height Drop, where it lowers the M8 to "Park Height". then when the driver returns and starts the car, it raises the car back to driving height. This should take between 5 to 10 seconds. Similar to when you come off the hwy and the car raises from hwy speed height to city speed height (car lowers almost an inch for anything above 55 mph, I read some say 65mph depending on the year of the M8)

Below is from ASHAM 8 instruction manual:
If you change the height from the lowest position to the highest, the computer might
Error, because only a limited time (about 45 sec) available to running the compressor. If the height change requires more time, the computer displays “Check air ride system” message. In this case you turn off the ignition.
 
Thanks , I am grateful for the help after searching from last summer this is the best helpful explanation with workable action I have found. When I fund the leak I'll be on my way to fixing the mk 8. I'll let you know how it turns out next month or soon thereafter
 
The timeout is approximately 45 seconds. Only two ways your compressor would be on for this amount of time.
1. You installed the ASHAM 8 (I do not believe you installed this driver height adjustment module)

2. You have a large leak that takes this amount of time to re-fill. It is normal for the compressor to come on each time after the car is parked. The air system has a Park Height Drop, where it lowers the M8 to "Park Height". then when the driver returns and starts the car, it raises the car back to driving height. This should take between 5 to 10 seconds. Similar to when you come off the hwy and the car raises from hwy speed height to city speed height (car lowers almost an inch for anything above 55 mph, I read some say 65mph depending on the year of the M8)

Below is from ASHAM 8 instruction manual:
If you change the height from the lowest position to the highest, the computer might
Error, because only a limited time (about 45 sec) available to running the compressor. If the height change requires more time, the computer displays “Check air ride system” message. In this case you turn off the ignition.
thank you
 
thank you
Happy to help! Before replacing complete air shock, check O-rings, and the solenoid. I recall reading a thread on here, where the owner took the solenoid off onside on the front and moved it to the other side and the leaking followed that solenoid. Much less expensive to replace this than entire air shock. Make sure you use dielectric grease for the O rings if you replace those first. Be a good idea to put this on any o ring you check.
 
Happy to help! Before replacing complete air shock, check O-rings, and the solenoid. I recall reading a thread on here, where the owner took the solenoid off onside on the front and moved it to the other side and the leaking followed that solenoid. Much less expensive to replace this than entire air shock. Make sure you use dielectric grease for the O rings if you replace those first. Be a good idea to put this on any o ring you check.
Happy to help! Before replacing complete air shock, check O-rings, and the solenoid. I recall reading a thread on here, where the owner took the solenoid off onside on the front and moved it to the other side and the leaking followed that solenoid. Much less expensive to replace this than entire air shock. Make sure you use dielectric grease for the O rings if you replace those first. Be a good idea to put this on any o ring you check.
Happy to help! Before replacing complete air shock, check O-rings, and the solenoid. I recall reading a thread on here, where the owner took the solenoid off onside on the front and moved it to the other side and the leaking followed that solenoid. Much less expensive to replace this than entire air shock. Make sure you use dielectric grease for the O rings if you replace those first. Be a good idea to put this on any o ring you check.
 
" Wondering if you ever re built the front end steering , ball joint, tie rods, the entire mark front end. I have a lot of experience but never tore down a front end. I planed to put a moog front end kit for 340.00 and I have my own well equiped garage and a good mechanic friend who could guide me thru it when I run into difficulty. I have installed a timing chain before, rebuilt a 4 cyl. and changed clutches.
 
" Wondering if you ever re built the front end steering , ball joint, tie rods, the entire mark front end. I have a lot of experience but never tore down a front end. I planed to put a moog front end kit for 340.00 and I have my own well equiped garage and a good mechanic friend who could guide me thru it when I run into difficulty. I have installed a timing chain before, rebuilt a 4 cyl. and changed clutches.
Yes, recently did the front upper and lower control arms (these have the ball joints built in), front Strut Rod bushings. I bought the control links, but they didn't need replacing. This was my first suspension work (UCA/LCA/Ball Joints) and it wasn't difficult. Having proper tools like a ratcheting box end wrench/s ball joint removal tool etc. will make it much easier. There is a lot of great info on this site that will guide you through it.

To name a few...
- torquing certain bolts with the M8 are normal ride height, so that the bushing doesn't bind and wear out the new components quickly.
- Buy good quality parts or do this again in 20k miles
- Buy parts with grease fittings, so you can lube ball joints
 
Yes, recently did the front upper and lower control arms (these have the ball joints built in), front Strut Rod bushings. I bought the control links, but they didn't need replacing. This was my first suspension work (UCA/LCA/Ball Joints) and it wasn't difficult. Having proper tools like a ratcheting box end wrench/s ball joint removal tool etc. will make it much easier. There is a lot of great info on this site that will guide you through it.

To name a few...
- torquing certain bolts with the M8 are normal ride height, so that the bushing doesn't bind and wear out the new components quickly.
- Buy good quality parts or do this again in 20k miles
- Buy parts with grease fittings, so you can lube ball joints
"--Thanks for the help. Today my air ride as it has been slowly dieing went out all the way. The compressor will not come on anymore. The car is riding on its compressed air bags and or air struts. It rides like a truck and I dare not do more than 20 mph as every bump shakes our entire bodies. Do you know what parts if any can be damaged driving it . I have quit driving the m 8 and drive my old pontiac gran am until I can figure out whats wrong . I do have a shop that specializes in electric so I can take it there . What would stop the compressor from working. /It acts like its dead and needs a new one.. Write back asap. Thanks again. for the tips"
 
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The only thing I could say is first check the fuses. If it has been working overtime pumping the bags from the leak/s, the timer should stop the pump first. If you are using the key (from on to off to on again) to reset the pump you should give it time to cool off. It isn't designed to pump up bags from fully or close to completely deflated.
I wouldn't drive the M8 with no air in the bags. I believe this will damage the air bag.

You have to find the leak first and fix it. If you just replace the pump (air compressor), this issue will damage the replacement pump.
 
Thanks again, I have parked the m 8 untill I can get time to look it over. With no air compressor, is there a way to inflate the with and air hose so I can see leaks?
 
Thanks again, I have parked the m 8 untill I can get time to look it over. With no air compressor, is there a way to inflate the with and air hose so I can see leaks?


I've had two Marks, a 93 from 2002 until 2006, and a 96 since 2006 after some genius turned in front of me at an intersection (used the insurance money to get my 96)...I was a purist, I did replace the front bags on the 93 when they suddenly gave out 100 miles from home, even paid a dealer to do them (was about $900 if I remember correctly). When I got the 96, I had to replace the front bags shortly after I got it, and I bought used bags on ebay that got me by for years, but towards the end, I shut off the air ride switch prior to shutting off the engine so that it would NOT slam-it would stay up for days and even weeks if it was in my garage, but that got old. I had used bags for the rears that I tried to install last summer, but they would not air up, and I had a set of Strutmaster coil springs I got off a junkyard Mark about 3-4 years ago for $50 that were in very nice condition. I got annoyed, installed front and rear coils and now it is like a real car-I can drive it anywhere and not worry about the whims of the air ride system.
It is great when it works, but no matter what, it WILL FAIL, so if you want to keep it and use it in any situation, get past the stubborn ideal that it has to be on air, and fix it for good. Mine rides as nice as it did with air but now I have no problems with slamming, which makes this a real driver now.
 
Hi, I am getting to that point. I too am a purist/ Thanks for the friendly help
 

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