Update: Head gasket/timing chain job under way

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Diplomat 1

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So if anyone has been following my posts it turns out after the cylinder leak down test the intake valve was leaking so I decided to just bite the bullet and rebuld heads. I borrowed my friends tool who had the same motor but in the jaguar. The crank pulley tool worked but the cam holding tool doesn't fit. I aligned with the crank holding tool and the cams are flat on top but it won't work so I ordered the right kit for my car. Anyway I've I got started I noticed for the first time ever I had "milkshake" in my oil pan. Immediately I think head gasket but I was told it might also be the oil cooler? Any way to check if the oil cooler is bad? I read the oil cooler should be replaced how true is that? I also noticed one of the sensors is broken on the oil cooler (check pics below) Which sensor is this? And if anyone can tell me where that wire harness in the picture hooks up to would be very appreciated. It was around the pass front area if I'm not mistaken.As of now I am waiting for the tool which should be here tomorrow

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That's the oil temperature sensor.
If there was also oil in the coolant, then the oil cooler is a good suspect.
I hope that this effort isn't for nothing. I thought that the crank bearings were toast once coolant got into the oil.
 
Lol I'm hoping not joegr. Is there a way while the head is off to tell us rings are in good shape? Should I clean the top of piston off?
 
I would have bought another LS.
Wait ... I would have junked that one and driven one, of the would be, two remaining LS'es.
 
joegr said:
That's the oil temperature sensor.
If there was also oil in the coolant, then the oil cooler is a good suspect.
I hope that this effort isn't for nothing. I thought that the crank bearings were toast once coolant got into the oil.
Click to expand...
You're absolutely right. If you do multiple oil changes after resolving the leak, the engine MAY be okay after all the effort. If the coolant was in the bearings for any length of time, engine is likely done. Sorry to say but hopefully this saves him from wasted time and money.
 
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So pretty much motor is toast? Smh there is nothing i can maybe run in the motor to clean it out?
 
It's not a "clean" problem.
Without a correct layer of oil, the crank will contact the bearing surface, causing the bearing to delaminate. When this is really bad, the bearing can get temporarily stuck to the crank and you get a "spun bearing".
You have to pull the engine and fully disassemble the bottom end to inspect the bearings and crank surfaces.
OR, reassemble and run it. Change the oil and filter two or three times quickly (like within maybe 5 minutes of running the engine) to try to get out the rest of the contaminated oil still in the engine. See if you get a knock from the bottom end. It might be fine. Odds are not in your favor, but stranger things have happened.

You can come up with a method to pressurize the coolant circuit of the cooler - only go to ~16PSI - and see if air leaks out the oil passages.
 
The leak-by on the valve is a grim symptom. Pull all the spark plugs and try to manually turn the engine. If you can, and if coolant/oil slurry comes out, it is likely junk. Just be sure all the pistons are moving. Just a guess, but maybe a valve got hung up from no lubrication and got slapped by the piston. Even if that looks okay, you can still have a bent rod.
 
Thanks for the help guys Reason I am tryin to fix it is because I have someone who can rebuild the head and if I do new head gaskets and timing chain I figured the motor would last another 100k hopefully. Instead of buying a new car and wonder the maintenance. I will try to reinstall and try that method out. Is there a certain oil viscosity I should use for the cleaning out part? Appreciate all the help
 
UPDATE:

I finally got the both heads off and found my problem. The valve spring broke on cylinder 8 exhaust side. That would explain the misfire and tap/click noise issue I was having. When I took heads off I didn't see any milkshake come out I saw coolant. I don't know what to make of this don't know if head gasket went bad or oil cooler. I need some help with some part numbers. I'm looking for part numbers to the
Oil cooler
Oil temperature sensor
Exhaust valve spring
O rings for coolant bypass housing
Throttle body gasket

Other gaskets n stuff which I don't think I need oem are
Exhaust manifold gasket
Intake manifold gasket
Front cover gasket
Ignition coil connectors
Fuel injector connectors

Now I know it's frowned upon to reuse certain stuff but I want to know what I can reuse and what I have to buy new on this list and if I have to buy new should I go oem or aftermarket on these parts?

Head gaskets
Head bolts
Timing chain
Primary timing chain tensioners
Secondary timing chain tensioners
Timing chain guides

If you see things I am missing on my list lmk. Thanks again to everyone helping.

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The coolant will pool up like that if you didn't properly drain the block before pulling the heads.

As for reuse, follow whatever the service manual says is - or is not - reusable. e.g., read the procedure for R&R cylinder head. It'll say whether or not new bolts are required.

fordpartsgiant.com will show you the ford part number, which you can then shop around.
rockauto.com will have the general gaskets.

It is not absolutely required to replace the timing components. Inspect and determine yourself if they are reusable.
 
Thank you oddball. I brought up the coolant on Pistons because it was a milkshake like substance like how it came out of oil pan that's what was so weird. The timing chain does look good im tryin to figure out what I can get away with reusing and what is a absolute necessity to change. I wanna do job correctly so if I need head bolts I will buy them if I can reuse I will reuse of that makes any sense? Lol thanks again
 
Hey I am looking for some part number help I am using fordpartsgiant.com but I can't tell which ones are for my car it seems like there are different part numbers for same parts if someone can please get me the correct parts numbers for these items I would really appreciate it

2003 LS v8 3.9

Primary Timing chain
Secondary timing chains
Timing chain guides
Primary Timing chain tensioners
Secondary timing chain tensioners
Valve springs
Valve seal
Head gasket
Head bolts

I think that's it for now I am trying I stay OEM as possible. If someone can help me get numbers that would be perfect thanks
 
If you are having a hard time determining the part #s.. a call to your local friendly Ford dealer parts department may give you what you need. Ask for pricing at the same time. Don't get sticker shock.
 
Diplomat 1 said:
Thank you oddball. I brought up the coolant on Pistons because it was a milkshake like substance like how it came out of oil pan that's what was so weird. The timing chain does look good im tryin to figure out what I can get away with reusing and what is a absolute necessity to change. I wanna do job correctly so if I need head bolts I will buy them if I can reuse I will reuse of that makes any sense? Lol thanks again
Click to expand...
Chime in here about new head bolts to re use or not re use. My father owned a machine shop so I learned about bolts when we rebuilt machinery. When a bold is new and torqued for the first time , the stretching of the threads due to new torque is acceptable as the bolt was manufactured to accept this stress. Once new bolts are torqued and re used the stretching out of the threads has been used up by the 1st torque when the bolt was new. Now its possible to re use the bolts and get the head to seal. Its also possible you won't get the even sealing because the stretching has been used up resulting in over tight the bolt to get the same torque number you get with a new bolt that has stretch life ready to go. These new bolts won't have to be over tight to get the right torque number resulting in and even sealed head and gasket. This is a high compression motor making a lot of psi . I have gotten by on straight 4 and 6 cylinder motors re using head bolts .After the motor warmed up a few times I coud see liquid sizzling up around the head bolt. Luck I was able to re- torque and re tighten and that stoped the sizzle leak or leaks. With a hi compression 4.6 if it was mine and I had to funds I would buy a pair of head bolt sets for the 4.6 and sleep good.Ask if the heads were checked for flatness by your machinist with a straight edge. You should not be able to see any daylight if they were blanchard milled 1 or 2 thousands
 
Diplomat,

Can't tell from the pics,,, and you didn't say... but if you pulled the cam phasers off the cams you are going to want new bolts for the cam phasers too. Ford says they are "one time use only". They are only about $5 each. Cheap insurance to replace them.
 
Rockbottom said:
.... My father owned a machine shop so I learned about bolts when we rebuilt machinery. ...
Click to expand...

Yeah...... Depends on the design and material of the bolt. Yes, all bolts stretch. But, if it's designed to be tightened to nearly the breaking point, where it has stretched a great deal, then the bolt will not be reusable. Some attachment systems are just designed to work that way. Others use bolts that are much stronger than the stretch from the installation, so they can be reused.

Blanket statements about all bolts being reusable - or not - is flatly incorrect and will lead to broken bolts and leaking gaskets.
 
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