part number for intake manifold bolts? 2006 ls

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beammeupscotty

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i have been replacing the cooling system parts and pulled the intake. found my cylinder head temp damaged and replaced it as well . Upon reassembly I broke two intake manifold bolts trying to torque them down...I suspect I was suppose to replace these with new ones... I got the broken ends out ...now I am wondering what part number i need for replacement bolts? cant seem to find them anywhere?

thanks for any help !
 
Intake are you using a torque ranch that would be very important but hopefully if you have done all that work I'm sure that a no brainer now as part number you might get lucky at ford part giant


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i am using a torque wrench had it set at 89lbs and it snapped two of them... reusing the old ones so i am not sure if that is why or maybe I got the wrong info on the lbs ? I am not real experienced so nothing is a no brainer for me. I found a bolt number under intake mainfold for the 2006 at ford parts giant
W704916-S309 but what is strange is that the current ones take a 10 mm socket and these are shown as 8m
 
beammeupscotty said:
had it set at 89lbs and it snapped two of them...
Click to expand...

That's almost 4x as much as any intake bolt I've ever torqued to. That's insane man, that didn't sound crazy to you before you did it?
 
beammeupscotty said:
had it set at 89lbs and it snapped two of them...
Click to expand...

I hope that wasnt pound feet and was bound inches, that would be insane and I can believe that you didn't snap every single one of them if that was the case.

the manual calls for 15 lb-ft for the intake bolts and studs. there are a couple of parts in that area that do ask for 89 in-lbs, but again that inch settings not feet.
 
Yep, that's way, way too much. They're not lug nuts. There's a reasonable chance that you have now cracked the manifold.
The correct sequence is almost as important as the correct torque: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x31006.htm~gen~ref.htm
I think the part numbers are:
-W704916-S309 - bolt
-W709302-S425 - stud (the ones that the brackets also bolt to)
 
Yeah so I am not very smart.... is a disability....but I got heart ! yes it did seem like too much, I thought I had read it in this forum but I must have mis-read. I did follow the sequence hopefully I didn't crack it will see i guess ..... I can now attest that the manifold bolts are very strong and can take up to 4 times the force required !

Thanks for the part numbers, I will post once I get them and let you know if runs or not.... I do appreciate the help
 
no I am a little bit insane so it sounded normal :eek:) obviously I am not a mechanic and I enjoy learning things the hard way.
 
Way back when I was working on flatheads, I discovered that although very many things on a car actually can't be repeatably 'torqued' the factory offers torque values for all fasteners. One torques head bolts and the nuts on connecting rods. Most other fasteners are measured in 'oofs' while using a 3/8ths ratchet and a suitable socket. It's often OK to substitute a combination wrench of the correct size.:)

KS
 
joegr said:
Yep, that's way, way too much. They're not lug nuts. There's a reasonable chance that you have now cracked the manifold.
The correct sequence is almost as important as the correct torque: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x31006.htm~gen~ref.htm
I think the part numbers are:
-W704916-S309 - bolt
-W709302-S425 - stud (the ones that the brackets also bolt to)
Click to expand...

That was my next response if only two snapped and you got the rest on at 89lb almost sure you cracked it


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Tighten down Outwards. Start with insides, work to the outsides.
 
Edited. I did not do the same thing, something similar but on the valve cover.
 
Oh you are correct. I should have read it more carefully. I am editing my previous post to remove part numbers to avoid confusion.

But yes, pay attention to torque specs!
 
All of this is a very good reason to buy the appropriate FACTORY shop manuals for the year of the vehicle you have. I still have them for the first car I owned. A 1973 Ford Maverick 302. They are available for purchase if anyone is interested. I have a few older manuals too. All 3 volumes for the LS can usually be found on Ebay for around $40,,, last time I checked.
 
Car is all back together. But won't start. Turns over. Alarm sounded a couple times. I am wondering if it now thinks it's stolen ? I don't have a code reader but am wondering if I need to get one to clear any codes. Thoughts?
 
The alarm sounding is a classic sign of the battery being weak/low. Note that the PATS will never trigger the alarm, and it stops the starter from engaging. The anti-theft system is not your problem.
Check the battery out. Maybe it just needs to be charged. Once you get that squared away, you may find that the engine flooded during the failed starting attempts. If so, hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking.
 
that did work it started but its running very rough and says its in etc failsafe mode and it dies if i let it idle
 
You have a big air leak somewhere or a MAF problem. Make sure you plugged everything back in. You may have to check the OBDII codes to see where to look.
 
Orrrr... you may have cracked the maniflod somewhere.... or stripped out threads so that something isn't drawing tight. Yes... 89 is a common number for the LS,,, but it's inch pounds not foot pounds... and the 89 inch pounds is usually found on the cooling system, (plus a certain numer of degrees rotation of the bolt after that.

It is possible to use and inch pound torque wrench to tighten to foot pound specs... but it depends on the range of the torque wrench. Same for tightening to inch pound specs when using a foot pound torque wrench. It's simple math.

Converting foot pounds to inch pounds - - - multiply by 12.

Converting inch pounds to foot pounds - - - divide by 12.
 
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